burn pot overflowing

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emmittjames

New Member
Oct 29, 2010
41
central ct
Hello all, I have a problem with my Greenfire (Enviro) M55 Insert stove. Lately I've been noticing that the stove needs to be cleaned more often than normal, which is even more odd since its crazy warm here in CT. We're burning some Hammer's and a lot of Stove Chow lately, which have always been good for us. This morning though, the stove has completely filled and overflowed the burn pot. I vacuumed last night at 7, and we ran all night on 2. I have seen the stove do that in the past if the pot was too full of ash (like last winter when it was so cold you hated to let the stove cool down enough to clean), but that can't be the case since it was empty 12 hours ago. So, no the pot is full and there are pellets in the ash pan burning and its a hot mess. I shut it down about half an hour ago, and its still smouldering and red hot.

so. what did i miss? is this an air flow problem? what ideas do you have for me?
 
Check your damper, when was the last time you cleaned the venting, combustion blower, the cavity the combustion blower sits in, the ash traps, and the rest of the exhaust path.?
 
I did the blower, and the whole back of the stove including venting in October. Just this past weekend I removed the firebrick and did everything behind the walls. The only thing i haven't done since October is pull the whole unit and disconnect the flue. WHen the dealer installed, they did not put in a cleanout T, so i had to break the seal and completely disconnect to clean it out. I should have put in a t, but i was so rushed i just put it all back together and resealed it. I supposed its possible that the flue needs to be cleaned out already. This is only my second season, and i didn't clean the flue midseason last year.
 
emmittjames said:
I did the blower, and the whole back of the stove including venting in October. Just this past weekend I removed the firebrick and did everything behind the walls. The only thing i haven't done since October is pull the whole unit and disconnect the flue. WHen the dealer installed, they did not put in a cleanout T, so i had to break the seal and completely disconnect to clean it out. I should have put in a t, but i was so rushed i just put it all back together and resealed it. I supposed its possible that the flue needs to be cleaned out already. This is only my second season, and i didn't clean the flue midseason last year.

If your stove is vented so you can get to the termination cap, a leaf blower might do the whole job for you. I believe that if the damper is still set (easy to inadvertently change it on some stoves while cleaning) then you still have ash in the plumbing.
 
i didn't do the leafblower because the cap is on the chimney on the top of 2nd floor. Too hard for me to get to without lots of planning. I did the Linteater from down below though. thought that worked great.
 
emmittjames said:
i didn't do the leafblower because the cap is on the chimney on the top of 2nd floor. Too hard for me to get to without lots of planning. I did the Linteater from down below though. thought that worked great.

Did you get the termination cap that way? They tend to get really gunked up.
 
hmmm. i guess not. guess i will be climbing up there once i can get a babysitter!
 
Check the damper for mine was being moved every time that I vacuumed out behind the left round circle plate behind the burn pot.

1D
 
it is an airflow/dirty issue has the stove ever been set with a mag.?
 
stoveguy13 said:
it is an airflow/dirty issue has the stove ever been set with a mag.?

you know, it never was set with a mag. I have read about that, and i am certain the installer did NOT do that. His directions as far as the damper were basically, "this slides in and out." I don't really know how to get that done -- is it something i do myself after i buy a tool? or do i need a pro? (also, love your dog stoveguy! american bulldog?)

I DID take the whole mess apart yesterday and the flue was seriously full. I gave it the full vacuum and linteater treatment. Been burning well for about 13 hours now, and the pot isnt FULL, but it does seem like its building up still.
 
When a system has been fully cleaned is the ideal time to get it set up properly ;-)

FWIW, you can see the damper control arm from the front of the stove if you open up the swing door (not the glass), and peer into the gap on the left side of the stove with a flashlight.

With stiff wire you should be able to slide the damper control arm to change damper settings, unless it has been locked down.

I've learned to set the perfect settings by the look of the flame, and have marked the damper control arm, so I can always find my settings.

1D
 
emmittjames said:
stoveguy13 said:
it is an airflow/dirty issue has the stove ever been set with a mag.?

you know, it never was set with a mag. I have read about that, and i am certain the installer did NOT do that. His directions as far as the damper were basically, "this slides in and out." I don't really know how to get that done -- is it something i do myself after i buy a tool? or do i need a pro? (also, love your dog stoveguy! american bulldog?)

I DID take the whole mess apart yesterday and the flue was seriously full. I gave it the full vacuum and linteater treatment. Been burning well for about 13 hours now, and the pot isnt FULL, but it does seem like its building up still.
Yes he his an American Bull your dog is good looking as well.
you can have some one set it for your you can buy one and do it yourself it is not very difficult to do but def. something you want to have done for best results with the stove
 
1Dtml said:
When a system has been fully cleaned is the ideal time to get it set up properly ;-)

FWIW, you can see the damper control arm from the front of the stove if you open up the swing door (not the glass), and peer into the gap on the left side of the stove with a flashlight.

With stiff wire you should be able to slide the damper control arm to change damper settings, unless it has been locked down.

I've learned to set the perfect settings by the look of the flame, and have marked the damper control arm, so I can always find my settings.

1D

maybe i am too green to know what i am looking at but i don't think my stove can do this. perhaps because its an insert?

thanks for all of the advice -- i will need to look into the mag thing.

@stoveguy, i think i am better at talking dogs than stoves. had forgotten my profile pic was my american bulldog. That's Rorschach, the love of my life. She's two years gone now.
 
emmittjames said:
1Dtml said:
When a system has been fully cleaned is the ideal time to get it set up properly ;-)

FWIW, you can see the damper control arm from the front of the stove if you open up the swing door (not the glass), and peer into the gap on the left side of the stove with a flashlight.

With stiff wire you should be able to slide the damper control arm to change damper settings, unless it has been locked down.

I've learned to set the perfect settings by the look of the flame, and have marked the damper control arm, so I can always find my settings.

1D

maybe i am too green to know what i am looking at but i don't think my stove can do this. perhaps because its an insert?

thanks for all of the advice -- i will need to look into the mag thing.

@stoveguy, i think i am better at talking dogs than stoves. had forgotten my profile pic was my american bulldog. That's Rorschach, the love of my life. She's two years gone now.

Your stove has a damper on it, get out your manual and locate it (hopefully there is an exploded parts diagram). There also should be information in one of your manuals that mentions adjusting or setting the damper or draft.
 
Kind of stinks your dealer didn't set the damper or at least show you the old fashioned way of adjusting it! As bear stated your manual has a good section for setting it for a brisk fire. I also think there are some videos on the Regency site that give a visual of a good fire. We can talk you thru it if you need help.

Also if the fire is brisk and you still get back ups, You can do a quick scrap without shutting the stove down. Quickly open the door and use something with a long handle to stir the pot.

Also if its pellet issues(high ash) you can purchase a high ash burnpot thru Enviro. Same as the Meridians high ash pot!
 
thanks -- i assume the damper settings need adjustment over time. The manual gives a very brief explanation of adjusting the damper. I am going to go on the premise that its more of an art than a science until i can get my hands on a magnehelic pressure gauge.
 
emmittjames said:
thanks -- i assume the damper settings need adjustment over time. The manual gives a very brief explanation of adjusting the damper. I am going to go on the premise that its more of an art than a science until i can get my hands on a magnehelic pressure gauge.

Actually it is more likely that the damper should be set once and locked, then fine adjustments made via the trim controls. When the trim controls can no longer provide the required adjustment the stove system should be deep cleaned.


For anyone with a different stove reading this thread, the above may not apply.
 
emmittjames said:
1Dtml said:
When a system has been fully cleaned is the ideal time to get it set up properly ;-)

FWIW, you can see the damper control arm from the front of the stove if you open up the swing door (not the glass), and peer into the gap on the left side of the stove with a flashlight.

With stiff wire you should be able to slide the damper control arm to change damper settings, unless it has been locked down.

I've learned to set the perfect settings by the look of the flame, and have marked the damper control arm, so I can always find my settings.

1D

maybe i am too green to know what i am looking at but i don't think my stove can do this. perhaps because its an insert?

thanks for all of the advice -- i will need to look into the mag thing.

@stoveguy, i think i am better at talking dogs than stoves. had forgotten my profile pic was my american bulldog. That's Rorschach, the love of my life. She's two years gone now.


Yes, I see now your stove is not equal to the Enviro M55 as you stated, so your stove if slightly different, but it does show the damper in the same location (not sure you can get to it from the front like on the Enviro M55=Regency GCI60).

I believe this is the manual for your stove, but I could be wrong.

http://www.regency-fire.com/Files/Manuals/GF55-079.aspx

If not you may be able to find it here at the Enviro site:

http://www.enviro.com/fireplace-products/pellet/fireplace-insert.html

I hope this helps,

1D
 
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