Hello
Just updating the whirlpool, going from a Kholer cast iron with brass jets to a new Juccuzzi with the plastic jets.
Since it has a nice 1" high tile lip, the caulkless tube surround with no corners seams to fit perfect.
The SwanStone is nice, in fact we ordered it, but all the cutting and calking for the shampoo rack and tight corners require cement board behind it, in case it leaks water!
http://www.theswancorp.com/index.php?prod=503
Also bringing the swanstone down to a shower pan or tub tile lip is a BIG issue.
Furring the wall and bringing the cement board into the lip is impractical so a vapor barrier must be used and silicone the back of the vapor barrier to the inside of the lip is recommended but does not sound durable!
See > > http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=43323
Swanstone states there must be cement board behind it and Industrial Super calk in the corners. Very expensive caulking that will not mildew.
The Sterling 3 piece system from Lowe's is an acrylic molded interlock system that is caulkess and does not required cement board behind it.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_89229-721-71224100-47_0__?productId=3124623&Ntt=bath tub wall surround&pl=1¤tURL=?Ntt=bath+tub+wall+surround&facetInfo=
Therefore this 3 piece acrylic system below with the rounded corners just seems like it really holds water.
BTW. The original 1/2" plywood bath floor flexed every time we walked in. 1962 split entry home. So we put 3/4" interlocking plytanium treaded plywood over the 1/2" event under the tub.
It is Plytanium Brand - Dry Ply tounge & grove water plywood with water repelant coating for approx $50.00 per 4x8 sheet
(broken link removed to http://www.buildgp.com/product.aspx?pid=4882)
Then we put 1/4" Hardy board cement board under the tub skirt and all over the whole bath for a good base for the porcalin tile floor.
The pics below show how the grooved seams in the caulkless enginered acrylic system fit together tight!
Any comments or suggestions?
Just updating the whirlpool, going from a Kholer cast iron with brass jets to a new Juccuzzi with the plastic jets.
Since it has a nice 1" high tile lip, the caulkless tube surround with no corners seams to fit perfect.
The SwanStone is nice, in fact we ordered it, but all the cutting and calking for the shampoo rack and tight corners require cement board behind it, in case it leaks water!
http://www.theswancorp.com/index.php?prod=503
Also bringing the swanstone down to a shower pan or tub tile lip is a BIG issue.
Furring the wall and bringing the cement board into the lip is impractical so a vapor barrier must be used and silicone the back of the vapor barrier to the inside of the lip is recommended but does not sound durable!
See > > http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=43323
Swanstone states there must be cement board behind it and Industrial Super calk in the corners. Very expensive caulking that will not mildew.
The Sterling 3 piece system from Lowe's is an acrylic molded interlock system that is caulkess and does not required cement board behind it.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_89229-721-71224100-47_0__?productId=3124623&Ntt=bath tub wall surround&pl=1¤tURL=?Ntt=bath+tub+wall+surround&facetInfo=
Therefore this 3 piece acrylic system below with the rounded corners just seems like it really holds water.
BTW. The original 1/2" plywood bath floor flexed every time we walked in. 1962 split entry home. So we put 3/4" interlocking plytanium treaded plywood over the 1/2" event under the tub.
It is Plytanium Brand - Dry Ply tounge & grove water plywood with water repelant coating for approx $50.00 per 4x8 sheet
(broken link removed to http://www.buildgp.com/product.aspx?pid=4882)
Then we put 1/4" Hardy board cement board under the tub skirt and all over the whole bath for a good base for the porcalin tile floor.
The pics below show how the grooved seams in the caulkless enginered acrylic system fit together tight!
Any comments or suggestions?
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