cheap/ simple 4-way valve actuator

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pybyr

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jun 3, 2008
2,300
Adamant, VT 05640
Hello all--

As I gear up to design and implement my storage, one of the things that I'll need to do is to operate the 4-way valve that I'll have on the tank side of my plate HX in order to maintain countercurrent flow (and maximum efficiency of heat exchange) on the tank side of the plate HX.

I already have the 4-way valve for reversing the flow- a Tekmar 722 1.25 inch brass 4-way valve (I have a spare, new in box, for sale at cost if anyone needs one). Flow on the boiler side of the plate HX is handled by a Taco Twin Tee, which makes direction of flow on that side pretty much irrelevant.

Actuator motors for 4-way valves, at least the ones that I have seen to fit the Tekmar 722, seem to cost Beaucoup Bucks. And, in my instance, I do not need to modulate the 4-way valve at partial settings between open and closed-- I merely need to have it in one direction during a boiler burn, as the tank is charging, and then revert quickly to the other direction once the fire has quit charging the tank.

My best idea to date is to rig a round rotor disk to the 4-way valve actuator shaft (which will be near the floor) and then have a round pulley above near the ceiling, with a loop of chain or cord, and an electromagnet (such as those used to hold emergency doors open) and a weight. When the boiler is fired, I can set controls up to energize the electromagnet-- and when the tank has reached a temperature at or nearly at the temperature of the boiler, the electromagnet would be de-energized, allowing the weight to pull downward on the loop of cord in order to shift the valve to the opposite direction of flow for the mode in which the tank will become the heat source rather than the heat sink.

I welcome suggestions, alternative ideas, etc.

Thanks
 
Trevor:

Did you consider using a BBQ rotissiree motor , controlled by microswitches on the gear you described? I've seen these motors at yard sales and flea markets before, they should have plenty of torque to turn a ball valve...

Bob
 
(broken link removed to http://cgi.ebay.com/Johnson-Control-VG1241AE-9A4GGA-Actuator-1-2-Ball-valve_W0QQitemZ350176702720QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116)

google to make sure if it will work. There are simular items quite often on ebay. different brands, sizes, and voltages. You might have to pick up a cheap PID controller that sends a voltage relay signal. They hook to the stem. You might have to add a addition to the stem but that is workable. Damper actuators work also. ebay has lots of odd items if you search long enough.
leaddog
 
DaveBP said:
Trevor,
What happens when the power goes out for 5 or 10 seconds?

I don't need to worry about that as much as most people- the main subtransmission line of my electric co-op runs across the back edge of my lot. I have a 1930s GE electric clock that has a little red indicator tag that shows if the power hiccups for more than a split second- and it's _really_ rare that the flag triggers.

If it does (the power hiccups) then, oh well, my tank will charge less efficiently on that one occasion- but it will still charge.

But thanks for noting the point- others might need to worry about that factor more than I do.
 
I've always felt that one of those TV antenna rotors could be used for something other than turning an antenna since it comes with it's own controller. I kept a couple of them for several years and finally threw them out after tripping over them for years. Seems that they could be used in this application.
 
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