We just moved into a cabin this fall with masonry chimney that has a tile liner. The top four feet of are very well bonded to the brick and I cannot bust them out with my drill powered "basher". So I am either going to tear the chimney down to below the roof line and run class A up from there, or tear the entire chimney down and relocate the new chimney so our stove can be against the front wall of the basement of the cabin instead of in the middle of it. However it is getting too late in the season for putting holes in our roof, so I am going save this project for summer, however we do still want to heat the basement, so I am planning on temporarily running the chimney out a basement window. If I replace the window with cement backer board can I run just single wall stovepipe for the entire course of the chimney, as long as I run my vertical stack 18" from the outside wall of the cabin?
chimney through a basement window
- Thread starter shawn83
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I would definitely advise against the single wall “chimney” as it will creosote up something fierce. There’s a reason it’s not allowed and it’s not just heat clearances. You would have to clean it every 2 weeks to be safe.
Thanks, that is interesting, I didn't realize there were reasons other than clearances and longevity not to use single wall.
You'd assume it was too small, but hopefully it's rectangular and could fit a rectangle or oval liner..
The inside diameter of the tile is 6" so I can't fit a liner and insulation down it, at least not the six inch liner my stove requires.
Thats when I get out grinders attached to poles the air chisel more aggressive breakers etc etc
oh yeah, you just attach an angle grinder to a pole and use a masonry cut off wheel? that should be straight forward, I only have to go down four feet.
Yes after you cut through on each face lots of times it will come out with the breaker.
Great thank you, I'll give that a try. Just curious how do you attach the angle grinder to a pole, or any chance you have a picture of your set-up.
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
I have done similar things with an electric hedge trimmer. I used 2x2 lumber and made a "cradle" for the shape of the tool, Then used velco strapping to attach it to a 2x2 pole. You might be able to use large band clamps too. You also need to deal with the switch. They are not usually a rocker switch. They have a deadman release that would need to be bypassed. Once you have the local switches defeated, you can then use a 120V house switch wired into an extension cord on the end of the pole.
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
I'm retired so have lots of extra time. Plus the hedge will still be there by the time I get it prototyped.
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
When I made mine it was to be re-used every year to trim the hedge so I spent extra time. I had to extend the hedge trimmer 10 feet or so to trim the sides and the top. I imagine for a 6 foot grinder tool that you are only going to use once you can just get it running on it's own, and then plug into an extension cord. I don't have that hedge anymore thank goodness. It was probably 60 years old and a monster 14 feet high.
