Class A outside installs

[all night moe]

In some recent posts, I've read about how cold starts can be a bit smoky without preheating the flue. Especially when offsets are used and the stove has 90* bends in the black pipe.

At some point down the road, I will be doing an exterior Class A. I have also observed exterior chimneys of all types, do better on the southern exposure walls. Mine is a north westerly wall where the stove will live. I will find the benefit of no exterior offsets. Just two 45s in the black pipe to transition to a through the wall Class A. Chimney will have 20-25' of height. Once heat is established draft will be plenty strong. My thoughts to combat cold starts is to build an insulated chase, with a hinged bottom for cleanouts at the T.

Thoughts? If there are no foreseen issues, I hope someone can benefit from this idea.

 

[begreen]

It can be a bit more complicated, depending on the house construction, floor location (basements are often the most problem), house sealing, chimney location relative to adjacent structures, altitude, etc. Your setup may draft fine, or it may draft poorly depending on whether the room has a sometimes negative pressure issue. For example, a big kitchen exhaust fan can make the floor go negative while it's running.

 

[RockyMtnGriz]

I'm by no means a chimney expert. But the days like the last few do learn one about insulation (-43 yesterday morning). I think the value of an insulated chase depends on its ability to trap heat escaping from the house. If it's outside of a well-insulated wall it's probably not going to help much. Outside of a poorly insulated wall, the flue becomes part of the heated space. From what I've seen outside chimneys do fine in warmer climates, not so well where it gets cold.
A cold run of insulated class A is a lot easier to heat up than a cold run of masonry flue. I have seen a free standing outside masonry stove flue here, where it gets quite cold. I don't know what it took to get that thing drawing. There's also a guy who uses a long run of single wall outside (and has had issues with chimney fires). And the local landmark is a 585' tall 60' diameter freestanding brick chimney. Of course, it probably never cooled off for 60 years.

A lot probably depends on what your stove will tolerate. The old fire-in -a-can stoves worked fine with the 100% single wall or masonry flues of those days. The new EPA stuff, not so much.

 

[Wildflush]

In some recent posts, I've read about how cold starts can be a bit smoky without preheating the flue. Especially when offsets are used and the stove has 90* bends in the black pipe.

At some point down the road, I will be doing an exterior Class A. I have also observed exterior chimneys of all types, do better on the southern exposure walls. Mine is a north westerly wall where the stove will live. I will find the benefit of no exterior offsets. Just two 45s in the black pipe to transition to a through the wall Class A. Chimney will have 20-25' of height. Once heat is established draft will be plenty strong. My thoughts to combat cold starts is to build an insulated chase, with a hinged bottom for cleanouts at the T.

Thoughts? If there are no foreseen issues, I hope someone can benefit from this idea.

My class A is also NW corner of house. 3’ of excel double wall stove pipe to 90 elbow connected to thru wall thimble. Class A Excel T straight up to a pair of 30’s to clear the soffit to a run about the roof with a pair of braces. About 23’. If I don’t use the stove for awhile and it’s very cold out I feel the cool draft inside to top of my stove. I crack a window and 2 min or hairdryer I’m good. Did not need to that this morning.

 

[all night moe]

My class A is also NW corner of house. 3’ of excel double wall stove pipe to 90 elbow connected to thru wall thimble. Class A Excel T straight up to a pair of 30’s to clear the soffit to a run about the roof with a pair of braces. About 23’. If I don’t use the stove for awhile and it’s very cold out I feel the cool draft inside to top of my stove. I crack a window and 2 min or hairdryer I’m good. Did not need to that this morning.

I'm on the top of a hill and about 1400' of elevation. The wind can reek havoc with temps when it wants to. I'm thinking it may have had a bit of devil's play on draft. It usually drafted well. Just the windy days on cold starts hurt. Wind on a mild day wasn't an issue.

Rear exit stove, immediate 90 then 4-5' vertical to the second 90. About 24'' from there till it connected with the cleanout T. I did have the two 30s to clear the soffit too. For a second go around I was thinking of a chase and also going straight through the soffit.

 

[Wildflush]

I'm on the top of a hill and about 1400' of elevation. The wind can reek havoc with temps when it wants to. I'm thinking it may have had a bit of devil's play on draft. It usually drafted well. Just the windy days on cold starts hurt. Wind on a mild day wasn't an issue.

Rear exit stove, immediate 90 then 4-5' vertical to the second 90. About 24'' from there till it connected with the cleanout T. I did have the two 30s to clear the soffit too. For a second go around I was thinking of a chase and also going straight through the soffit.

Ok yes you basicly have 3x 90’s (including the T) and 2x 30’s so I can see draft might be impacted. Any time you have bends it can effect draft. Straight up is always best but like your install I can’t do that. Removing the 30’s may help. Im no way a chimney expert much more qualified folks here. I have very good draft that I have to stay on top of lowering my primary air. My PE stove is also an easy breather.

 

[all night moe]

Yes, I was thinking of also doing two 45s from stove to wall with a shorter horizontal to the pass through. It was previously 18'' of exposed black pipe. I could reduce that to 12.

Another thought is the purchase of a BK Princess.... which I'd love. This stove would relocate to the front parlor, even though it doesn't fit the décor. I'd rather the wood heat over period correct. I have no will to part with this stove. Smoke dragon or not. Burns pretty clean with dry wood.