Clean out door repair

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newchimneyowner

New Member
Jan 28, 2019
3
Maryland
I have a 1956 rancher and chimney. I just moved into this house and had the previous owner install a flue liner due to the issues found during the chimney inspection. The first issue was the firebox + new flue liner caused some indoor smoking issues but I fixed that with a smoke guard strip. It came with some high temp RTV so I have some still on hand.

The second issue is yesterday I smelled some odor downstairs near the furnace. Looks like there is an ash dump. I didn't really think about it much when I started using the chimney because I don't use the ash dump but smelled some odor downstairs after burning some logs and found the clean out door was hidden behind a bunch of "stuff" leaning behind the furnace/air handler. I wonder if I hit the clean out door up top when cleaning previously and so stuff drifted down and now I detected the odor. Anyway, the door closes fine, but is not super secure in the cinder block cut out. It can just fall out of the hole if the "stuff" wasn't leaned against it. The clean out door looks to be in good shape, and I have no plans on using it (I'll clean the ashes up from up top) but to reduce odor can I just use silicone caulk to seal up the door to the cinder block down there? I won't seal the door itself because it latches ok. I am able to remove the clean out door and slide it out from behind the air handler but getting a drill or mortar back there would be impossible or extremely difficult. The clean out area itself didn't look like it had anything in it so I doubt this feature has been used much since the air handler was installed. It shouldn't be exposed to heat so I was thinking some plain ol silicon caulk or the left over smoke guard RTV, or perhaps even DAP concrete caulk. I was going to use the fireplace mortar repair but looks like that uses heat to cure so that's not an option.

I imagine one of those products should be sufficient to hold the door in place, and reduce any stray odor that may make its way down there. Since this involves fire I figured I'd ask just in case. So...what is the preferred method to installing a clean out door and securing the frame into the brick or cinder block?
 
I have a clean-out door at the base of my internal masonry chimney (runs up through the center of the house). I used an acrylic caulk to seal around the sides of the assembly, which basically "pushes" into the opening in the chimney block. That connection is not air tight without some caulk. Then I used trusty old duct tape and put that all around the door - over the hinges, top and bottom, and over the latch and latch side of the door. Why you might ask? :) Most important to me is that I don't want to lose any draft from the chimney. The chimney is going to "pull" air from where ever it can get it and I don't want it pulling from the basement, I want it pulling from the stove. The other reason is that any creosote and soot that might flake off between my annual chimney cleaning will fall down into that area and I don't want any smell issues down in the basement.

Hope that helps.
 
That's exactly what I was thinking of doing. I'll use my high temp RTV (since I get paranoid about everything related to fire) and press it back into the cinder block. Down the road I'll move the air handler to the middle of the house (which will help even out the heating/cooling of the opposite side) and then maybe I can start using the ash dump instead of my shop vac upstairs for cleaning. All the HVAC equipment was "installer friendly" but home owner inefficient. Now that I own this place it's time to make educated decisions about how the place is heated, cooled, and all the deferred maintenance is done!
 
That's exactly what I was thinking of doing. I'll use my high temp RTV (since I get paranoid about everything related to fire) and press it back into the cinder block. Down the road I'll move the air handler to the middle of the house (which will help even out the heating/cooling of the opposite side) and then maybe I can start using the ash dump instead of my shop vac upstairs for cleaning. All the HVAC equipment was "installer friendly" but home owner inefficient. Now that I own this place it's time to make educated decisions about how the place is heated, cooled, and all the deferred maintenance is done!

Sounds like a good plan. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain by going with the High Temp RTV. Sometimes I do things like that just because it makes me feel better!

I liked your description of "installer friendly". Just fine if you are going to do it once and then leave, but not good for the homeowner. We have a similar outlook on things - I have to know how my house works - it's just the way my brain is wired. I like it. I have lots of friends who don't know how most things in their house work and just call someone when something stops working. That works fine for them but would just kill me!

Reminds me of something the guy who put in my water softener many years ago told me. He said that they get lots of calls from a new home owher where the person says that they had soft water for a few months or maybe a 1/2 year, but now it's not soft anymore. They ask if it's got salt in the salt tank and they say, "Oh, it needs salt?" LOL! :oops:
 
I used duct tape around the edges and had a fire this evening - zero odor. So a great fix for now until the RTV arrives.

Speaking of how things work in a house - there are practical reasons for figuring things out. That electrical junction box in the basement that had Dishwasher written on it? Oh yeah that was for the previous kitchen before the remodel and now the kitchen is where the carport was!. Now it's for the radon fan and nobody bothered to label that or the breaker box. Saves time and money down the road if there is a problem - for you or a contractor if you have already performed the investigation work.
 
I used duct tape around the edges and had a fire this evening - zero odor. So a great fix for now until the RTV arrives.

Speaking of how things work in a house - there are practical reasons for figuring things out. That electrical junction box in the basement that had Dishwasher written on it? Oh yeah that was for the previous kitchen before the remodel and now the kitchen is where the carport was!. Now it's for the radon fan and nobody bothered to label that or the breaker box. Saves time and money down the road if there is a problem - for you or a contractor if you have already performed the investigation work.

Cool - Nice to have the odor problem solved! And getting a "map" of your house is such a great idea. I built this house 30 years ago and mapped everything as we went. As I've done thing to the house, I've updated the notes. When I finally leave this place, that binder and the labeling on the service panel, hot water heater, etc. is going to be so helpful for the next owner. Until then, it sure helps me!