My stove was running fine but then stopped. The motor checks out so I figure it's a clogged vacuum switch. (it's a brand new switch) What's the best way to unclog it?
regards
ernie
regards
ernie
Clogged vacuum switch
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Bioburner
Moderator
Likely an air leak somewhere on the stove not the switch as they rarely fail. Age of stove? Gaskets compress with age and often start needing replacement after 5 or so years. Door gaskets get a lot of wear.
Harvey Schneider
Minister of Fire
It isn't clear which motor stopped. Most pellet stoves have three or four motors. I will assume for the moment that you are talking about an auger motor, since usually, that is the only one directly controlled by a vac switch.
If you suck gently on the hose leading to the switch you should hear a click and the motor should be able to run when the stove calls for fuel feed. If that happens, your problem isn't in the hose or switch.
Sometimes the hole where the hose connects to the firebox or combustion blower will get plugged with ash. It is a simple matter to poke a piece of wire through the hole to dislodge whatever is there.
All that being said, it is just as likely that you have a cracked hose or a seal/gasket leak somewhere on the firebox.
A dirty stove with obstructed air passages could also cause the same behavior. Is you stove clean?
Just as likely is the possibility of a hopper switch (if you stove is so equipped).
Finally and least probable is the control board.
It would help to know what type of stove you are talking about and more specifics of the symptoms. Jumping straight to "the motor doesn't run" invites a lot of guess work.
If you suck gently on the hose leading to the switch you should hear a click and the motor should be able to run when the stove calls for fuel feed. If that happens, your problem isn't in the hose or switch.
Sometimes the hole where the hose connects to the firebox or combustion blower will get plugged with ash. It is a simple matter to poke a piece of wire through the hole to dislodge whatever is there.
All that being said, it is just as likely that you have a cracked hose or a seal/gasket leak somewhere on the firebox.
A dirty stove with obstructed air passages could also cause the same behavior. Is you stove clean?
Just as likely is the possibility of a hopper switch (if you stove is so equipped).
Finally and least probable is the control board.
It would help to know what type of stove you are talking about and more specifics of the symptoms. Jumping straight to "the motor doesn't run" invites a lot of guess work.
However if you do have a bunch of fines in the line prepare for a mouth full of yuck! Mine had a nice pine taste to them.
Harvey Schneider
Minister of Fire
I did say gently. Or you can gently pull a vacuum with a turkey baster. Or wrap a paper towel around the end of the hose first.However if you do have a bunch of fines in the line prepare for a mouth full of yuck! Mine had a nice pine taste to them.
I'm a hardwood connoisseur myself.
Harvey's right. We need a LOT more info to give you even a semi-intellegent response. Stove brand and model? How old? Cleaning schedule? Which motor? What EXACTLY have you done so far to check it? How experienced are you with tools and electrical testing? How full is the hopper?
When I started it up this morning it started feeding pellets and is running fine. It's a Dansons Pelpro 120. I clean out the ash traps and the combustion fan and any build up at the exhaust hole. Can opening the door to clean out the burn pot or clean the glass while the stove is running contribute to the problem?
Harvey Schneider
Minister of Fire
I know that. I mean will opening the door while the stove is running contribute to the clogging of the vacuum line?
Some basic understanding of the stove operation would go a long, long way to help you troubleshoot the stove. Developing and maintaining enough airflow through the burn pot while maintaining a vacuum in the burn chamber are the two absolute necessities to having a happy stove. Anything that disturbs those things will cause problems. Blocked or restricted airflow will reduce both things. Anything that lets air come into the burn chamber BUT NOT through the holes in the burn post will result in poor burning and possibly low/no vacuum, which would shut off the auger by opening the vacuum switch. Things such as poor gasketing around the door, a partially open dump valve on the burn pot, an open door..... will all kill vacuum. Think about anything else in the system that could lower the airflow. Bad bearings on the exhaust/combustion blower causing it to slow down? A bad gasket around the burnpot? Many things can cause problems. You just need to look at your stove and imagine the worst. 
Bioburner
Moderator
Hope not. Most of us give the pot and exchangers a quick scrape an brush while the stoves are running.
We do???? I let mine cool down before scraping and brushing the ash into the pan.
Harvey Schneider
Minister of Fire
Actually it could. With the door closed and the stove running the volume of the hose and switch are at the lower pressure that the combustion blower creates. When the door is opened and the firebox goes to atmospheric pressure the volume of the hose and switch will suck in enough air to equalize their pressure. So the hose may suck in some of the fly ash when the door opens.
Or some of the fines, if the hose connects to the auger tube.
Bioburner
Moderator
Just doing as the Harman video instructs
Who has the time to shut down and cool when its been below freezing for two plus months.
Bioburner
Moderator
Harvey Schneider
Minister of Fire
You started this thread stating that you had a problem. Was the problem resolved? Will you tell us the outcome?
Same with Quad so the Harman literature may be changing since HHT owns them both now.???? Who knows.
Yes, it would be nice to know what the problem was/is for the record and to help others.
We were just killing time while we waited for the OP to answer us.
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