Code for combustion air

[AH64ID]

I was talking with the local inspector today and he mentioned that all wood burning stoves are required to have a outside air kit for combustion air based on code.

I've been looking for some time and cannot find a code that requires that.

This is the closest thing I have found to what he read me, but then it exempts fireplace-stoves.

"Solid fuel-burning appliances shall be provided with combustion air in accordance with the appliance manufacturer's installation instructions. Oil-fired appliances shall be provided with combustion air in accordance with NFPA 31. The methods of providing combustion air in this chapter do not apply to fireplaces, fireplace stoves and direct-vent appliances. The requirements for combustion and dilution air for gas-fired appliances shall be in accordance with the International Fuel Gas Code."

Idaho follows the 2012 IBC.

I think he was talking about fireplaces instead of fireplace stoves (aka wood burning stove). In the Residential Code fireplaces have their own chapter and it talks about exterior air and fireplace stoves are covered in the heating and cooling chapter and there is no mention of exterior air.

Any thoughts on where else I might a code covering this?

My installation tag says outside air is only required for mobile home installations.

 

[mark cline]

So what is the problem? Does he want you to install an outside air kit?

 

[AH64ID]

So what is the problem? Does he want you to install an outside air kit?

Yes he does.

This is going in a pole barn so the building is far from airtight so I see no need for it.

 

[Doc C]

I am in North Idaho and had to add outside air as well. I just used a vent near the stove. I'm assuming you are talking about the State inspector and not a city inspector.

 

[mark cline]

Regardless if its airtight or not , his code says that it is needed. Usually just do as he says to get the approval , I agree with you, but he holds all the cards .

 

[AH64ID]

Yes this is a state inspector.

I’ll do it if I need to, but I’ve never noticed it around here and I cannot find the code stating it’s required.

I’d like to see the code.

 

[bholler]

Yes this is a state inspector.

I’ll do it if I need to, but I’ve never noticed it around here and I cannot find the code stating it’s required.

I’d like to see the code.

Ask him for the code. It may be state code but it was pulled from irc a couple years ago

 

[Doc C]

Ask him for the code. It may be state code but it was pulled from irc a couple years ago

This was just started in Idaho in the last year or two. I did not have to have outside air when I put our englander 30 about 2.5 years ago. When I changed it out a couple months ago I had to have outside air. Wasn't a big deal.

Especially in a pole barn. Put a register in a hole right next to the stove. Smile and give him his $65.

The rules don't say it has to be an Outside air kit....just proximity air. At least that what my inspector told me.

 

[Doc C]

And hopefully your inspector is easier then my electrical was. Super nice guy. Asked him for code on something unrelated to my electrical permit and his response was he doesn't hand out proof of code and that it is his interpretation of the rules that I had to follow. Basically he was not going to spend the time to find what I wanted. Just wanted me to do what he said.

 

[Doc C]

https://dbs.idaho.gov/boards/hvacboard/packets/hv_pkt05162012.pdf

Page 56 of 67. Section R1006 and section R1006.1 and R1006.2.

Hope this helps.

And I don't read codes regularly so I am not sure when or if this was adopted into law. The only thing I saw was it looked like it would go into effect in 2014 if passed.

And I like your screen name!

 

[AH64ID]

And hopefully your inspector is easier then my electrical was. Super nice guy. Asked him for code on something unrelated to my electrical permit and his response was he doesn't hand out proof of code and that it is his interpretation of the rules that I had to follow. Basically he was not going to spend the time to find what I wanted. Just wanted me to do what he said.

So far the electrical and mechanical guys have been great. I have 4 inspections to go, but my initial impressions are good.

The guy I talked to today was very nice and helpful, I just like to see things written myself.

https://dbs.idaho.gov/boards/hvacboard/packets/hv_pkt05162012.pdf

Page 56 of 67. Section R1006 and section R1006.1 and R1006.2.

Hope this helps.

And I don't read codes regularly so I am not sure when or if this was adopted into law. The only thing I saw was it looked like it would go into effect in 2014 if passed.

And I like your screen name!

Awesome!

I'll look and see if I can find if it was approved and added.

I was able to find the same Section in the 2012 IRC, which is the current IRC for Idaho. https://dbs.idaho.gov/codes/what_codes_does_dbs_use.pdf

The way I read R1006 is that it is for fireplaces and not fireplace-stoves. The definitions for the two can be found here

https://codes.iccsafe.org/public/document/IRC2012/chapter-2-definitions


Lastly the 2012 IRC does deal with fireplace-stoves but not in Chapter 10, but rather Chapter 14. Chapter 14 doesn't make any mention of exterior air supply.


I can understand why an open air, unregulated, fireplace could need additional outside air but a freestanding stove shouldn't use as much air.


Thanks! I'm rather fond of the AH-64.

 

[Sodbuster]

Inspectors vary in experience and common sense as much as oil and water. You'll waste time and money fighting him. Put in the OAK and once you pass inspection pull the damn thing out if its not needed. Only reason I could think of for having one in the shop would be for flammable fumes,getting drawn into the stove.

 

[AH64ID]

If I have to install it then so be it. It won't come out after as I would have to cut a hole in my siding to install it.

The stove is old enough that I may have to make my own OAK, or at least the part that attaches to the stove.

There are a few benefits to an OAK, mainly the flammable fumes in a shop, so it's not the end of the world. I just like to see the code. I spend a lot of time reading and interpreting rules/regulations at work so I default to "trust, but verify". I have no reason to doubt him, I just can't find it written for stoves, only fireplaces.

 

[Doc C]

If I have to install it then so be it. It won't come out after as I would have to cut a hole in my siding to install it.

The stove is old enough that I may have to make my own OAK, or at least the part that attaches to the stove.

There are a few benefits to an OAK, mainly the flammable fumes in a shop, so it's not the end of the world. I just like to see the code. I spend a lot of time reading and interpreting rules/regulations at work so I default to "trust, but verify". I have no reason to doubt him, I just can't find it written for stoves, only fireplaces.

Listen. When mine was inspected a couple months ago I asked the inspector specifically if it had to be hooked to the stove. He told me no.

Advised that I could use a vent near the stove. He said just use a register like for an HVAC system. Also reading the link I posted it sounds like you can just put a vent next to your stove and be done.

Definately verify that with your inspector. But it should be a 10 minute job to put a vent in.

 

[Doc C]

 

[AH64ID]

Listen. When mine was inspected a couple months ago I asked the inspector specifically if it had to be hooked to the stove. He told me no.

Advised that I could use a vent near the stove. He said just use a register like for an HVAC system. Also reading the link I posted it sounds like you can just put a vent next to your stove and be done.

Thank you. I do read it that way as well. It's still a hole in my siding, but whatever.

I will chat with him today and see what he needs to have done. I certainly don't want to piss off the inspector before he even sets foot in my shop

 

[Highbeam]

If you’re going to cut a hole in your siding for the inlet then you really should connect it to the stove. There are actual benefits to a proper air tight feed of intake air to the stove that you will miss out in if you don’t. Also, not connecting it is just like leaving a window open. Dumps cold, dry, dirty air in all the time!

I like oak setups. Required in my state but for the pole barn stove my inspector did not require it because my stove was on an interior wall. I wish I had the outdoor feed which would be properly connected to the stove.

I get not wanting to cut holes in the siding. I have zero holes in mine except for thousands of screw holes.

 

[Doc C]

If you’re going to cut a hole in your siding for the inlet then you really should connect it to the stove. There are actual benefits to a proper air tight feed of intake air to the stove that you will miss out in if you don’t. Also, not connecting it is just like leaving a window open. Dumps cold, dry, dirty air in all the time!

I like oak setups. Required in my state but for the pole barn stove my inspector did not require it because my stove was on an interior wall. I wish I had the outdoor feed which would be properly connected to the stove.

I get not wanting to cut holes in the siding. I have zero holes in mine except for thousands of screw holes.

I typically agree and definately respect your opinion High beam.......but it's a pole barn! If that thing is built anywhere near 99% of the pole barns are built in Idaho then it will have more airflow then my boys while streaking in a hurricane!

Only advantage I can see is pulling air from outside and hopefully abating flammable gas fumes but I would like to think he is elevating his stove a foot or so to help with that.

 

[Highbeam]

Should be elevated 18”. I too built a pole barn but it is air sealed and insulated better than my home and I only spent a little bit of money to make that happen. The rest is attention to detail and my labor. I am sure that all pole barns fall somewhere in the leaky spectrum between bad and superb. Pole barn construction can be done very well.

 

[AH64ID]

Even a well constructed pole barn will have more air leaks than a house. Mine is as tight as any I have seen but it's still a barn.

While there are some benefits to a OAK I have also read about many negatives.

The wall behind my stove is an exterior wall; however, it goes into a RV bay that is open on both ends. The wind really blows thru there and would create a more turbulent air intake than pulling from static shop air.

 

[begreen]

What stove make/model is going in?

 

[bholler]

Even a well constructed pole barn will have more air leaks than a house. Mine is as tight as any I have seen but it's still a barn.

While there are some benefits to a OAK I have also read about many negatives.

The wall behind my stove is an exterior wall; however, it goes into a RV bay that is open on both ends. The wind really blows thru there and would create a more turbulent air intake than pulling from static shop air.

I have seen them completly sprayfoamed they are very tight. I see more with sheet insulation with foamed and taped joints like highbeam said they can be very tight. Allot will depend on your doors though.

 

[AH64ID]

What stove make/model is going in?

It's a Fabco Briarwood II XE

 

[begreen]

It's a Fabco Briarwood II XE

Pedestal base? If so you may be able to cut a 4" round hole at the bottom rear of the base and put in a start collar to connect to 4" flex duct.

 

[AH64ID]

It is not a pedestal base.