Cold chimney

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zada2014

New Member
Sep 1, 2023
10
Goldendale, WA
I had a big problem lighting my wood stove with a cold chimney. I came up with an idea of adding a 2" malleable 45-degree fitting too the chimney pipe. I put it in 9" above the stove. I mounted it by brazing with a brass rod. It also has a 2" brass sewer cap that can be remover to either use a propane torch or I use an electric BBQ charcoal starter. This is a faster and more effective way to warm your stack.

I hope this will help you when you're trying to start, you're stove on a cold morning.

Thank you
Bob
 
I suppose that's one way to do it...easier way is to just stick the torch into the top of the stove for a minute, above the baffle...or for really stubborn chimneys, a hair dryer works great!
My only concern would be if your insurance company would have issues with your mod...some will use any little excuse to deny a claim.
 
I did try both of your ideas. Sometimes it would take up to 90 seconds and that wasn't a guarantee that smoke wouldn't fill the room. The other problem was loose ash blowing back into the room.
 
While your mod may well be totally safe and useful, it would void the UL rating on your stove which as said would be grounds for your insurance company to deny your claim if things went badly.
 
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How often is chimney cold like this? I ask bc I’m wondering how much of a problem this really is.
I have this issue when I head up to my camp in Maine. Very cold flue. As much as I hate the smoke in the house for a minute or so, I’m good from there bc I’m using it during tune in there.
If not already, you may try the “ top- down method of starting fire. Not perfect, but cuts down on smoke. Maybe have some very small tinder or wood shaving and newspaper up top to get draft ASAP.
And I agree, I wouldn’t try little modifications.
 
I live at 2300 feet. We have a lot of cool mornings in the spring and fall. We do most of our heating with a wood stove. I have tried all of your tricks to warm the stack, even top loading. My modification of the stove pipe is nothing more than adding a damper. The only difference, I can cap this off. I want to thank all of you for your tips
Using this method puts the heat at the area that needs it, in the stove pipe. And it looks good.
 
Ok. I was thinking if it was a handful of times a season, no biggie but 40+ times is a lot
 
Why is the draft weak? Exterior chimney? Or ss the stove in a negative pressure zone? Or is the flue too short?
 
How tall is your chimney? What stove do you have? Are you using fully dry wood that was split and stacked at least a year if it's softwood and 2 years if hardwood?
 
I use 16' of rod to clean my chimney on a single level home. Master Forge stove. I burn pine, fir and oak that I split in the winter and burn it the next winter. All of the pine and fir are cut down when they are dead.
 
I use 16' of rod to clean my chimney on a single level home. Master Forge stove. I burn pine, fir and oak that I split in the winter and burn it the next winter. All of the pine and fir are cut down when they are dead.
The oak will likely not be fully ready at the one year point. Not sure how much that contributes to the issue you’re having with draft. The pine and fir will be good and dry.
 
My guess is that the setup is close, but not quite drafting strongly enough. That's common with one story homes, especially if the house is well sealed. An outside air connection may cure the issue if this is the case.

If you could post some pictures of the inside and exterior flue, we may be able to suggest changes that eliminate the need for the preheater.