decision new wood stove

[netmouse]

I am replacing a Vermont Castings "Defiant" wood stove built / installed in 1983. It has a catalytic converter I believe. I have a 2-story victorian home in NJ. I do use my stove for heat in winter for a few hours in the evening when home to take over the oil heat and so I do not have to raise the oil thermostat when home. I used about a cord of wood last winter.

My chimney store is recommending the Hampton (very pretty) or the Regency free standing (seems very powerful). The BTUs output all differ - Does it really matter? The VC I have is 60000. The Regency F3100 large is 80000, and the medium F2400 is 75000 and the small F1100 is 55000. The Hampton H300 large is 45000, the small H200 is 38800.

I have not done a price check on the different brands, yet. I think buying a recommended brand also will "bond" me with person who can also be my chimney sweep and maintenace-go-to-person.

Questions - Is there any preference for any of the above choices? Does the BTU output matter today? If so, as none match the VC, would you go higher (overheat?) or lower (less powerful?). Does having a catalytic converter today make any difference - these new models do not have that.

Your thoughts are appreciated.

 

[burntime]

The hampton large should be 75k btus, I have the HI300 which is the insert version. I was between the 3100 regency and the hampton, I settled on the hampton. Pick the 3 best for your situation and make sure its over 2 cu ft firebox and you will be happy. For longer burn times the bigger the better, but like I said I wanted the pretty face of the hampton. BTW, I get good overnight burns with it.

 

[netmouse]

Thank you Burntime. Do you have any price ranges for any of the models? And how many years old they are? So I can judge the quotes I will be receiving.

Price for stove and also for labor to install if you can.

 

[burntime]

My insert goes for 5k installed in my area. It was about a grand less for the 2400 series and 600 less for the 3100. I have not checked in a year or so. Give some info as to your floor plan and square footage and I am sure a few in your area will chime in and let you know you need at least X btus out of a stove. The high numbers are just that, running the stove at full tilt. Check how many btus your furnace is, then figure half of that would keep you house toasty on all but the worst days. There is not an exact with a stove because the install, chimney height, liner diameter, insulation in the home etc all must be taken into consideration. Hope this helps and does not create more confusion?

 

[Todd]

Why are you replacing the Defiant?

 

[netmouse]

I am considering replacing the defiant for the following reasons. It is 25 years old. It began to not work right. Last year the damper under high temperature would not close (until it cooled down). That was a new symptom and happened twice under the same conditions under high heat. So I babysat it and turned the damper down before the temp hit the "red zone". I used to let the temp get to the start of the hot zone and close the damper, then let it cruise on 200 and it held that perfectly.

I had some chimney guys out today to inspect it - they are via connected to a local store that seems to be a solid business. They pointed out to me two inside very tiny cracks (can't see any on the cast iron body). They also say if they take the damper and back wall parts out to replace the damper , as it seems warped, they are not sure what they will find as it is so old, and apparently the insides in the upper chamber has never been opened to be cleaned. So the screws might not unscrew and they may have to break them. Bottom line they cannot guarantee what they might find nor the labor cost. They are not sure if not being able to close it is because the damper is warped or it seems that when they turn the handle that it may be that the damper / handle just is not engaging (connecting right) to pull the damper closed at high heat.

They are coming back to me with options and estimates. I have found the damper parts by a seller that emailed me per Vermont Castings whom I had contacted, and one option will be to replace the parts. If that cost ends up being a fairly high labor cost (the parts are under $100 for the damper stuff), it may be better to buy a new stove. This is the second crew that noted the white across the front doors on the black cast iron and said this is a bad sign and that the stove has been burning overly hot to have that happen. So between that, the few cracks and it is so old, it may be better to just put the money towards something new. Plus the new stoves are apparently more efficient today with better technology and easier to control temperature-wise, I am told. What the crew is doing, the cell phoned a buddy in another state who is emailing them the defiant details so they can better learn how to take this old stove apart. If it ends up being more simple and not too costly, then maybe I'll repair.

Any thoughts from your way on all this?

 

[burntime]

Update it and you will burn a lot less wood

 

[netmouse]

One concern I have about the brands mentioned is the $5k cost estimate to buy and install. I thought good stoves could be had for around $2000 - $3000? Maybe that is the stove without labor? I already have a "fireplace" and chimney that may be fine "as is". So they are not part of the install.

 

[savageactor7]

Parts less than 100?...why hell then just rebuild it. It won't take those 2 pros more than 200 to fix it. That's a very good stove if you can rebuild it properly. When I was younger that was the stove I couldn't afford...but always wanted. Don't let them intimidate you into a new stove and install. What you'll save will buy tons of wood...and there's plenty of time to rebuild it.

Don't be pressured.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

25 years outta the old girl aint a bad return on the initial investment. im leaning towards a new unit personally with your description. white on the doors denotes serious heat, a warped baffle (which is believable after a couple decades) the damper not operating when you actually need to have it functional , and cracks (there could be more) VC makes a fine product and have for years, they are going through some issues at this time as a buisness so looking for a different brand is prudent (even though i do not believe we have seen the last of VC) you might add PE to your list of stoves to take a look at as well (you might even look at ours ) were it me i would rather have somthing i know is going to last like the VC you have did , 25 years is a good run for a woodstove, you got more than your money's worth out of her , might be a good time to let her out to pasture.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

My chimney store is recommending the Hampton (very pretty) or the Regency free standing (seems very powerful). The BTUs output all differ - Does it really matter? The VC I have is 60000. The Regency F3100 large is 80000, and the medium F2400 is 75000 and the small F1100 is 55000. The Hampton H300 large is 45000, the small H200 is 38800.

I have not done a price check on the different brands, yet. I think buying a recommended brand also will "bond" me with person who can also be my chimney sweep and maintenace-go-to-person.

Does the btw output matter? Yes. More btu's, more heat you feel. A btu is a btu no matter which of those stoves you might choose. Naturally, more btu's will also require more wood to produce that btu. It all depends upon your needs.

I don't agree with your assessment of bonding with your sweep and maintenance person. Have only one and you are locked in no matter what. Two opinions are usually worth more than one.

I also would not limit the choice of stoves to what the local is carrying. For instance, while we did look local, we ended up buying from Woodstock, direct and have been very happy we did so. It was costly but certainly no $5,000. They even have a fantastic guarantee with their stoves. Not happy? Return it for full refund.

As to the amount of wood burned, we heat 100% with wood. In the past we've burned from 5-6 cords per winter. Last year, our first year with the Woodstock Fireview we used less than 3 cords and stayed much warmer! Look them up on the web and even give them a call. It costs nothing to look and they are definitely not high pressure, so call the 800 number.

 

[humpin iron]

100 dollars to repair is not the end number. My shop sells alot of vc parts. I have rebuilt over 200 Defiants and Encores. The damper not closing is a sign of warping. There is a dommino effect in side your stv. Once you take it apart and start putting parts in the other warped parts won't line up. You will also have to replace the cat and refractory pkg. End number will be 5-700 dollars in parts alone. Really are better off looking at a new stv, with 25 yrs newer tech. Good luck.

 

[netmouse]

Thank you ! You all have been helpful !

 

[wellbuilt home]

Ive had a VC defient re built in 91 and there where no broken parts .The cost was 350 dollers for labor and a new gaskit kit. I loved the old stove but my wife droped the damper one night and the stove fell apart .I got three more years out of it but then bought a vc duch west( cat ) I still have it but is been burned for 15 years 24/7 and its the only heat i have so its time for a new stove . I was in the same boat i could rebuild for 800 in parts and my labor I could get a new duchwest for 1600 shiped to the house. I think we are better off with a new stove . I want a large stove so i could burn larger wood less spliting. I have a soap stone stove comeing in a few weeks . I hope it out lasts me It has a 4' fire box .