Dump Zone Plumbing Pointers

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SIERRADMAX

Feeling the Heat
Jan 13, 2011
300
RI
Can I start the plumbing of the donp zone at the PRV port rather than installing it in the header? if not, how far from the supply manifold should the dump zone start?

How about the valve? Any specific way it has to be orientated? Horizontal/Vertical? Finally, at what point does the return pitch down?
 
I added additional dumping to my system when I put my new boiler in. I plumbed that additional loop into the same boiler-top port my PRV valve is on with a T. I forget now but you might see a couple pics of it in my install thread. I put the T on its side into the port, then the PRV on the top of it & the dump circuit on the side - if that made sense. Just orient the valve per the instructions that come with it. I think most can be installed vertically or horizontally - if horizontally the motor is on top. Not sure what you mean at the end on the pitching down - my new dump loop goes out the top of the boiler, then over & up to T into the supply side of two of my second floor baseboard zones just downstream of the existing zone valves for those. So then the water would just flow through the zones as normal eventually ending up back at the return side of the boiler. Not sure what you're planning, but if its some kind of loop dedicated just for dumping, just make sure the loop is high, & you can go down with it back to the boiler or return manifold whenever is convenient after the radiation in the loop.
 
You could also use one of your existing heating loops. Assuming you have baseboard or radiators and your wood boiler will be close to the manifold. To test if it will work get your oil boiler up to temp and shut off the pump. Open one of your zone valves and see how much flow you get. If you have enough flow you can plumb a n/o zone valve in paralell with the existing zone valve.
 
They work more often than not. Once I had a flow check stick open on a zone that went down to a crawl space then up to the level of the boiler at the other end of the house and I got a backward flow to the supply side of the boiler.
 
So your are using your no-power loop as your heat dump?

I'm with Mike, use the largest zone in your house. It should be pretty easy to setup (it was nothing more then running thermostat wire in my case) and it would put the extra heat in a usable location.

If your no-power loop is like mine it's designed to work using thermosyphon and not really setup to be pumped through. Not that it wouldn't work I just think a large zone would work better.

K
 
No radiators/baseboard in my house. All hydro-air. I'm using two 5' hydronic heating elements that I wil suspend from the basement ceiling. I would guess the farther away from the boiler the better?
 
Farther away up, yes - farther away over, no.

Generally, you'd want as high above the boiler as you can, as close to directly above as you can. A long horizontal run will reduce your gravity flow, especially if you don't have much 'up' to it. If you have a lot of 'up' (and down after the load), you should be able to carry more horizontal run.

I'm not sure 10 feet of finned baseboard (is that what you have?) will get rid of a lot of heat in a hurry? Others with direct experience with that kind of setup can add more - the pics I remember seeing of those setups are using a lot more.
 
Here's what I have (From Tarm Biomass):

30K 18'
40K 26'
50K 32'
60K 36'

The common size I found was 6' section so I just used 4 sections for my 30K boiler.

K
 
Here's what I have (From Tarm Biomass):

30K 18'
40K 26'
50K 32'
60K 36'

The common size I found was 6' section so I just used 4 sections for my 30K boiler.

K

Same set up as me. With the piping I'm probably close to 30'. Not an area to skimp.
 
Doesn' t the water volume of the boiler have any bearing on it?
 
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