Englander 25-PDV E2/E1 error

[KPK860]

I've looked around the forum and found a few threads with similar issues but no quite like the one I seem to be experiencing.

My 25-PDV is throwing an E2 error at me, then about 10 seconds later switches to E1 and shuts off. This however doesn't happen right away. The stove starts up just fine and runs for a little while...how longs depends on how hot I'm running the stove. Currently I have those three settings on the bottom of the control board set to 2-3-1. On those settings, if I run the heat range on 2 and blower on 9, I can get the stove to run about 12 hours before the error pops up. If I turn the heat range to 5 or 6, it'll shut off within 45 minutes. Once the Error goes up, I need cool the stove down completely before turning it back on or it will just keep shutting itself off.

Here's a list of stuff I've tried so far:

1. I tried bypassing the exhaust vacuum switch, didn't do anything. (As a test, I didn't leave it that way) Stove still behaves the same way.

2. I checked the gaskets on the door and glass, they seem to be fine.

3. I read somewhere that the E2/E1 error combination has something to do with a faulty exhaust blower, so I bought a new one and replaced it...that seemed to make it last a little longer without giving me an error (wouldn't run 12 hours on low before, more like 3 or 4)

I'm thinking it might be the control board at this point, but I really don't want to shell out 300 bucks and find out its not the problem. Do you guys have any ideas? I'd love some input from someone who knows more about this thing than I do. I'm about clean out the chimney but somehow I doubt that will do anything since it was still erroring out when I by passed the vacuum switch...plus I already cleaned it out in September before I started using the stove.

 

[Ssyko]

Did you jump the other vacuum switch? Pdv has 2. Is the port for that switch clear. Hose that connects the switch to the stove tends to crack at each end. Make sure the port is clean and the hose ends are good then let us know if that changes anything. Also a good thorough cleaning of all passages in the stove

 

[doghouse]

On those settings, if I run the heat range on 2 and blower on 9, I can get the stove to run about 12 hours before the error pops up. If I turn the heat range to 5 or 6, it'll shut off within 45 minutes. Once the Error goes up, I need cool the stove down completely before turning it back on or it will just keep shutting itself off.


Sounds to me like it's overheating. Clean out the convection blower, see if that works.

 

[KPK860]

I did not jump the second vacuum switch and I kind of don't want to. It has 110 AC running through it. My understanding of that vacuum switch is that it will shut off the upper auger when the door is ajar. Am I wrong here? I'm just going by what I read...Yesterday I did check the port on the right side of the firebox and cleaned it out with a small wire brush. The hose attached to that port was crunchy at one end, I snipped it and put it back.

Last year I ran this thing pretty much non stop and the top of it would get so hot at times, that the plastic from the pellet bags would start to melt when I was refilling the hopper. It's nowhere near that hot when it shuts down now so I have a hard time seeing how it could be overheating. The convection blower is rather loud and making a ra ra ra sound so maybe I should replace that was well. I'll take it apart today and take a look at it.

I should also mention that this thing was built in 2012. I inherited it when I bought my house two years ago. This is my second season using it, and I have no Idea what kind of maintenance it received prior to me owning it.


What actually causes an E2/E1 error combo? I know that E1 is vacuum loss on exhaust, E2 is failed to start, and E3 is over temperature (which I have never seen)...what does it mean when you get an E2 after its already been running for a while and then goes to E1 after ten seconds?

 

[Ssyko]

Its losing vacuum. Just so you know, all the wires carry line voltage 120vac. Download the manual from heatredefined.com and read through it. Give the stove a good deep cleaning all the pathes through the stove and vent pipe

 

[KPK860]

Seems like every time I clean this thing it gets better and I think I finally got it fixed...then it dies on me again. Like just now it started crapping out again after running for about 3 hours on higher heat settings.

Is there a specific part of the cleaning process that people tend to miss? I cleaned out the vent pipe yesterday all the way out to the chimney. I clean out ash from the unit once a week with a shop vac. When I do that I make sure to take the impingement plate out and suck as much ash out from behind it as I can get to. I guess I'm trying to figure out where all this build up can collect that I'm missing it.

 

[Ssyko]

The new exhaust blower, is it OEM? Did you replace the whole blower or just the motor? How is the exhaust vent configured (pics help)? The leaf blower trick works about the best to clean the stove out (youtube search leaf blower trick)

 

[Robbop88]

I've been battling this EXACT same issue. The only things I haven't replaced are the vacuum switch, the exhaust blower / motor and the control board. Mine cuts to an e1/e2 combo once it gets good and hot. And if I reset the control board and start it up again while still hot, then it errors out immediately after finishing the startup procedure. I don't hear the exhaust blower laboring, but it is 15 years old.

 

[KPK860]

This is the exhaust blower I got: (broken link removed to https://pellethead.com/product/england-stove-works-englander-pellet-stove-combustion-exhaust-fan-motor-direct-replacement/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzeSxg_b83wIVDeDICh3lYgb2EAQYBSABEgJsJ_D_BwE)

It's just the blower. I didn't replace the housing.


The exhaust vent is, well, not the greatest setup. It's hard to take pictures because most of it is covered up but basically it goes up behind the stove, into the attic, then it does a 90 degree turn and out the side of the house, then 90 again, and up over the roof. It's all dura-vent twist lock pipe.

It's rinky dink, for sure. But it worked all year last year no problems. I guess I just figured it was good enough.

 

[Ssyko]

Is it all 3” duravent? It should go tp 4” when it goes outside. The 2 90’s are filled with soot and ash im betting. Englanders are weak exhaust and you have a very long path for it to get out.

 

[KPK860]

It might be 4 inch outside. I'm not sure. I'll climb back out there and take a closer look when the ice and snow melts. But that wont be at least for a few days. Yesterday I took apart the elbow that's inside the attic and cleaned it thoroughly. The rest I cleaned with one of those rotory vent dryer cleaning brushes and then a shop vac. I did not however pay too much attention to the last elbow. When the weather permits I'll climb up there and take a closer look.

By the way, thank you for taking the time to read my comments and responding. I dont want to seem like I'm ungrateful.

 

[Ssyko]

Actually you would be better off eliminating the 90 that is outside and run 12” straight out to a rain cap or 45 facing down.

 

[Pellet rick]

Try jumping both vacuum switches. Also make sure you are clean in the chamber to the lower left behind the impingement plate. It’s the chamber that is directly in front of the overheat sensor. You will need a vac and small flexible tube to reach it. The ash blocks the heat to the sensor and it will shut off the stove . Had it happen this time last year