Englander 25-PDV Room Blower

[Madfish]

I recently cleaned the room blower on my Englander 25-PDV. Everything was working fine up the time of cleaning other than lack of good room circulation due to a dirty blower. Right now I'm running the stove at the lowest setting so overall temps are kept low and in control.

After the cleaning the room blower will now run for a period of time like normal and then out of the blue shut off for 15-20 minutes before turning back on. My question is why?

I made sure that all wire for the blower were securely connected and I don't believe anything else was touched while cleaning. What should I be looking for?

Open for ideas and suggestions.

Cheers

 

[heat seeker]

Did you blow the motor windings out? It sounds like the motor's overtemp switch is shutting it off, and then turning on again when the motor cools.

You need to blow out the motor windings so air can flow through the motor itself.

 

[Dhosh]

"Right now I'm running the stove at the lowest setting so overall temps are kept low and in control."

Is the fire continually on, or going out between pellets from the auger, etc? Wonder if the bonnet isn't hot enough for the blower to kick in? Could be temp sensor going bad .. the one that tells the room air blower it's warm enough to kick in.

 

[Madfish]

"Right now I'm running the stove at the lowest setting so overall temps are kept low and in control."

Is the fire continually on, or going out between pellets from the auger, etc? Wonder if the bonnet isn't hot enough for the blower to kick in? Could be temp sensor going bad .. the one that tells the room air blower it's warm enough to kick in.

The flame definitely gets low but not low enough to go out. However, this was my thought at the beginning but wanted to make sure before it really gets cold around here. I haven't been able to get behind the stove today but plan to look tomorrow. Once I get back there what should I be looking for?

 

[Madfish]

Did you blow the motor windings out? It sounds like the motor's overtemp switch is shutting it off, and then turning on again when the motor cools.

You need to blow out the motor windings so air can flow through the motor itself.

I didn't blow it out but I used a shop vac to clear any dust bunnies from the motor vents and surrounding area.

 

[Dhosh]

Mine is a 1996 25-PDVP, so might be a bit different. My heat probe is screwed directly to the surface of the back of the heat exchanger, a bit above and to the right of the room air fan. I guess I would make sure it's tight, and/or take it of, clean the surfaces, and tighten back up again.

I might get some sort of temp measurement going. I have 3 thermometers. 1 is a surface mount for wood stoves, that magnetically 'sticks' to the left side of the stove. Right now, for example, it's running about 310 degrees. A 2nd one is magnetically stuck tot he exhaust vent pie ... close to where it connects to the exhaust fan. That seems to almost always run at 100F. I keep forgetting to swap them to see if that one will GO over 100! Then, I have a digital thermometer (was a remote thermometer for an inside/outside temp thing, till the main unit went out...), that I have at the end of a microphone stand, 6" in front of the left most room air tube, where the fan blows right on it. I'm just taking some measurements to see how hot the surface gets .. how hot I can safely get the exit air from the room blower, with various settings. Mostly playing, I guess.

In your case, you might find that your surface temp is well high enough for the room air to kick in. If it isn't ... it/s usually that temp probe. (I've been told). I think my controller has an issue, in that when I start it from dead cold .. my room air blower often won't kick in, unless I turn the controller off ... then back on again. I need to see what that trigger temp should be myself!

 

[Dhosh]

YOu could try just bumping up the feed rate. If at 1 now .. bump to 2 or 3. If the surface temp wasn't hot enough before for the fan to kick in, it should be within a few minutes.

 

[ericofmaine]

Just for giggles, make sure your AOT (last of the bottom 3 buttons) is set at 1. Mine did this one time and I checked and it had changed (don't remember what to). Not sure if it was a fluke, children or what, but I changed it back to one and all was ok again.

Eric

 

[kofkorn]

I agree with Eric, check your AOT. It should always be at 1.

Now at the same time, if my stove is running at 1 feed and 9 blower with a low setting on the LFF button (2 or 3) for a long time, the blower will shut off. Basically, your high blower speed is stripping the heat off of the exchanger faster than the flame is supplying it (a very good thing!), and the blower shuts off to prevent blowing cold air. It is certainly not surprising that it is happening just after you cleaned your blower.

It's not a problem with your stove. If it bothers you, I would drop your blower setting down a little, or bump your feed rate up a bit. Either change should prevent it from shutting off.

Good luck!

 

[Pelletstovefixer]

I recently cleaned the room blower on my Englander 25-PDV. Everything was working fine up the time of cleaning other than lack of good room circulation due to a dirty blower. Right now I'm running the stove at the lowest setting so overall temps are kept low and in control.

After the cleaning the room blower will now run for a period of time like normal and then out of the blue shut off for 15-20 minutes before turning back on. My question is why?

I made sure that all wire for the blower were securely connected and I don't believe anything else was touched while cleaning. What should I be looking for?

Open for ideas and suggestions.

Cheers

I had the same problem. My original motor was 6 years old. I cleaned the blower and it worked well for 20 min then stopped. I cleaned it and tested it but no luck. I looked for a replacement and I could only find complete replacements with the blower attached. My blower was fine so i couldn't see buying the whole unit. I disassembled the motor from the blower. I found a dayton 3M778 motor that fits perfectly with the mounting screws, shaft size and wiring config. Same specs as the original. I saved the rubber vibration mount from the old motor and reused the quick connects for the wires. My pellet stove now blows better than when it was new. Total cost with shipping included was $79.99 from Electric Motor Warehouse, I got it in 4 days from when I placed the order. Total time to remove the old blower motor and install the new one was about 1/2 hour. Note you will need a small Torx bit on a thin shaft screw driver and slide it between the blades of the blower through the exhaust port to remove the blower fan from the motor shaft. Message me if you need anymore info.