Englander PDV25 Noisy Large Room Blower

Brettsdaddy2010 Posted By Brettsdaddy2010, Mar 7, 2018 at 2:26 PM

  1. Brettsdaddy2010

    Brettsdaddy2010
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    Feb 28, 2012
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    Okay, this stove is 7 years old and has had A LOT of use where I live up in Vermont. Lately the large room blower has been making A LOT of noise...it honestly sounds like some terrible screeching. It happens only on initial start up and after it gets going maybe 2-3 minutes later it gets quieter and quieter. my local pellet stove tech said if my room blower fan is really loud on start up that it could be the motor is close to being blown and I'd need a new fan blower unit (part #PU-4C447). This was found because my stove blew a fuse the other night and he said if that blower fan motor isn't operating right it could be drawing more juice from the circuit control panel and blowing the fuse. I've looked online for replacement units and they range all the way from $78 to $180. One of the more expensive motors warned that there were other cheaper motors on eBay but that they were PSC (permanent split capacitor) motors and could have circuit board compatibility issues involving the blower speed control...is this true? Does it make sense? Unfortunately you can't just replace the motor on this unit as the motor and fan are in one sealed unit. One thing I did notice is that the higher dollar fans listed the CFM's at 250 which is in accordance with the OEM blower units but the cheaper ones listed theirs at 273CFM...would that make a difference? Not really looking to dump a bunch of money into the stove at the end of heating season but there are still a few cold nights in the long range forecast so to tempt fate and have my blower motor give up the ghost and be left with no heat (the pellets stove is my primary heat source) would be a very bad thing for me!
     
  2. Brettsdaddy2010

    Brettsdaddy2010
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    Feb 28, 2012
    55
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    I don't see where the motor bolts onto the fan housing though...looks like a solid unit to me. I've seen the pre-2002 models that have 3 bolts on the outside but this is a 2012 model and I don't see any bolts on the outside of the housing holding the motor on.
     
  3. Brettsdaddy2010

    Brettsdaddy2010
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    Feb 28, 2012
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    Did you have to make any modifications to this motor to get it to fit your blower fan housing and squirrel cage fan? What about wiring, does it simply connect to the existing wire leads?
     
  4. zinger827

    zinger827
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    Dec 28, 2014
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    You need to remove fan blade in the shroud with a torx screwdriver.Then unbolt motor from inside the shroud. Myself if i could buy complete assembly for $78 I would do that.
     
  5. zinger827

    zinger827
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    Dec 28, 2014
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    I cut off the rear bolts on motor that was it. No you will need to crimp on ends to wire to connect or splice your old connectors on to the fan wiring.to use.
     
  6. ericofmaine

    ericofmaine
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    Feb 8, 2012
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    I also have a newer PDV and I was able to get a new blower from Grainger. It was the same as the OEM motor. I was able to replace it into the existing housing. I did have to swap the gerbil cage from one motor to the other, but that wasn't that difficult, either.

    Eric
     
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  7. Brettsdaddy2010

    Brettsdaddy2010
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    Feb 28, 2012
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    If you read my original post there is some speculation that there would be compatibility issues with the PSC motor and the stove control panel regarding blower speed. If it would work and there were no compatibility issues than I would jump on that motor already...the different CFM's has me worried too, I'm not smart enough with these electrical issues to know if 273 vs. 250 is a big deal or not.
     
  8. Brettsdaddy2010

    Brettsdaddy2010
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    Feb 28, 2012
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    Do you have the item/parts #'s?
     
  9. Brettsdaddy2010

    Brettsdaddy2010
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    Feb 28, 2012
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    Would wire nuts work for splicing the wires?
     
  10. ericofmaine

    ericofmaine
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    Feb 8, 2012
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    Off the top of my head, I don't. I just entered the Dayton Model # in on Grainger's website and it came up with the same unit. Mine had the spade connectors already on so it was a direct replacement. I suppose wirenuts would work in a pinch.

    Eric
     
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  11. Ssyko

    Ssyko
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    Nov 6, 2017
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    Do not use any motor but a shaded pole. Split caps will fry the control board. If you have no plans on replacing the stove in a couple years go to ESW site and buy an oem motor and enjoy your your stove trouble free. If you dont want to do that make sure the motor is shaded pole and is compatible with speed controls. (Variable speed)
     
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  12. Festeraxp

    Festeraxp
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    Mar 8, 2018
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    Hey everyone. First time post. I too have the same issue. When the stove started up it would blow real loud. No I just get a very small flow of air blowing out of the top front above the door. If doesn’t blow the air like it used to. I haven’t heard the screeching anymore. But like I said the stove really isn’t blowing the air like it used to. I am also noticing that it seems like the fire dies down and then goes fires back up. I bought this stove last jan. No problems with the auger motors but in pa it gets pretty cold and this stove is our primary heat source. When I clean out the pellet area burn pot it’s always like a crusty cake. I use eco blast pellets. Any help would be appreciated.
     
  13. zinger827

    zinger827
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    Dec 28, 2014
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    You probably need to clean the screen on side of your blower shroud. I bet it is plugged up from lots of dust clear it up and blower will get the air it needs.
     
  14. zinger827

    zinger827
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    Dec 28, 2014
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  15. Festeraxp

    Festeraxp
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    Mar 8, 2018
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    Yes sir took it off cleaned the screen and also noticed that the vacuum line that connects to the exhaust was not connected. Turned it on and now it’s running good. Thank you for the advice. Ps can you guys guide me in the direction of this leaf blower clean out I keep hearing about.
     
  16. Ssyko

    Ssyko
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    ;)
     
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  17. Festeraxp

    Festeraxp
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    Mar 8, 2018
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    Well that was interesting. So I climbed up on the tf with the leaf blower and wow the stuff that came out of my pipe. I then used my drill scrubber. You connect it to the drill with fiberglass rods and it goes up the liner. When I pulled the cap off of the tee it was filled to the brim. That was before the leaf blower trick. I was like oh man I suck. I wanted to thank you all for helping me. Once I cleaned the combustion blower screen I noticed the pellets weren’t burning they were like black but not completely burned. So I just did a full clean everything with the ash vac brush and did it the best I could. I would like to know more about this mod in the bottom of the burn pot if anyone could let me know it would be greatly appreciated. I have an Englander 25-pdv. My flame is huge so any recommendations on how to get it to be the most efficient I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks again everyone.
     
  18. Ssyko

    Ssyko
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    With the stove shut down lift the burn plate out of the burn pot. Beneath the area where the burn plate sits, there are 2 holes in the pot 1 on each side about the size of a dime. Plug the holes with hillman electrical knock out plugs from your local hardware. Put your plate back in and fire up the stove.
     
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  19. BackDoc

    BackDoc
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    Jan 5, 2018
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    I used crumbled up aluminum foil in anticipation of getting the hillman caps and I just never got around to it. Works just fine with crumbled foil.
     

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