So, can anyone provide a good explanation of what the Low Fuel Feed, Low Burn Air, and Air on Temp buttons do? People talk about them on here all the time, but I've not yet seen an explanation of what those buttons are for, or how they affect the operation of the unit...
Englands 25PDVC Bottom 3 buttons
- Thread starter petejung
- Start date
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petejung said:
ok pete , here is the scoop:
"low fuel feed" controls the cycle "on" time of the top auger when the unit is set on its lowest heat ranges "1 and 2" does not affect the unit when the unit is set higher than that. the higher the number the longer the on cycle (the more fuel it feeds)
"low burn air" controls the amount of combustion air pulled through the fire on (you guessed it ) heat ranges "1 and 2" higher the number the more air
"air on temp" this setting does affect the unit in all heat ranges, it determines all of the temperature related functions of the unit (ie. when to turn on the room fan, when to recognise "proof of fire" when to allow the unit to turn off as it cools down during shutdown or out of fuel) this setting should always be left on "1"
note to readers: IMPORTANT not every model or every year of build will use the same settings, i know (off the top of my head) what the settings should be for any unit we have ever produced using that control board , so dont set your unit like your buddies is unless the dates and model numbers match! ASK ME otherwise. if the settings on the unit are off in the wrong way they can seriously mess with burn times as well as how clean it burns
Okay, I'll ask the silly girl question........how do you change the setting? Hit low fuel feed and then use the feed rate up/down buttons?
I'm watching this topic and the other related one with interest since mine also seems to have an over active appetite. Running it now with the shutter in the hopper closed as far as it will go. Keeping my fingers crossed that I won't have to adjust the factory settings.
Peggy
I'm watching this topic and the other related one with interest since mine also seems to have an over active appetite. Running it now with the shutter in the hopper closed as far as it will go. Keeping my fingers crossed that I won't have to adjust the factory settings.
Peggy
pegdot said:
peggy,
when you press each button , the blower speed will display the setting for 5 seconds, then it will revert back to what ever you have the blower set on. to adjust simply press the button , then use the blower speed up or down arrows to adjust DURING THE 5 SECONDS THAT ITS DISPLAYED if you wait too long it will revert and all you will adjust is your normal blower speed. so be hasty with your adjustments, however , unless being directed by me or one of my staff , do not make large adjustments at one time , and always monitor the unit for about 20 minutes after each adjustment to ensure it will burn properly
Thanks Mike! It looks like closing the shutter helped but I won't know for sure until I check the hopper to see how much it burned on 1 overnight. I need to put a call in to you today about some other stuff...stove was stored where mice got in it and ate the cover off the control board sensor so I guess I need to replace that plus the manual and the spring handle for the door were missing. Could the sensor not having full insulation on it be causing the stove to over feed?
stoveguy2esw said:
What would be the effects of lowering or raising the the "low burn air" setting? (besides increasing/decreasing the air flow)
Would the stove be hotter with a lower setting seeing as that not as much air is being pulled through it? Would it be cooler with more air?
Would lowering the setting also cause more soot on the glass/dirtier burn?
Am I correct in understanding the above post from Mike that this would only affect the stove on heat ranges 1 & 2?
These were things I was just wondering about while reading some of the posted topics, and didn't really find anything that would address how changing the low burn setting effects the burn.
Dan - I believe you are correct - the settings only affect heat ranges 1&2;. I would think that less air would be a cooler fire, and more chance for soot buildup. and more air would lead to a hotter fire. I may be (probably) wrong... Hopefully an expert will answer.
Do you think Brett & Crew will bounce back this week? I hope so. They need to go into the playoffs coming off a win. My aunt scored 4 tix to the first playoff game. I'm jealous.
Do you think Brett & Crew will bounce back this week? I hope so. They need to go into the playoffs coming off a win. My aunt scored 4 tix to the first playoff game. I'm jealous.
Thanks Pete for asking the question and Mike for the great info. I was wondering what those buttons really do.
Love my englander!!
Love my englander!!
petejung said:
I am also wondering if I should lower the low burn air a notch down seeing as that I pretty much always burn on a low heat setting. ( 1 or 2)
If i would lower it, does it then automatically go back to the factory preset if I turn the stove up higher?
As far as the Pack, I don't think this week really matters, but if your aunt comes down with a really bad cold and can't make the game, I know someone that would surely use a ticket. lol
Im glad I saw this post,I was going to ask the same questions.When I bought my stove I grabbed a few bags of pellets that were premium hardwood.They burned exceptionaly clean,I went back to get more and they had a different brand, so I tried them out.They create alot of ash and clinkers.(ive been trying dif brands before I buy a whole ton or 2 to see wich works best)would adjusting these settings help with this ash buildup at all?I have since found the original brand of pellets I bought but I still have a few bags of these cheap ones left Id like to burn.
AgtSmith said:
Burn the bags of the "cheap ones" first, then start firing up the rest of the ones that work better for you.
You will always get ash no matter what brand you use. The same brand of pellets may also vary.
I'd still like to know more about the low burn air settings myself.
Mike (or others that might be able to help),
I bought a 25-PDVC at Lowes about 7 years ago, it was manufactured 10/2000. It was a scratch and dent model and didn't come with a manual. I set it up in my basement and it seem to run well at higher feed settings, but at the lower settings in never ran correctly or efficiently as there would be a lot of buildup in the chamber and soot build up on the glass. Talking to the folks at Lowes never did resolve my issues and since I couldn't afford to run it at the higher settings (where it liked to run) it untimately went unused for the last 5 or 6 years... I think I ran 1 ton through it before it went into hibernation. Now that oil has gone through the roof, I've decided I'm going to bring it upstairs into the main living area for next winter and hopefully finally get it running correctly so I can put it into actual use. I probably wont do this until next fall, but I'd like to start planing now.
First off, what settings should I be running at? The mid and upper rate settings seemed fine, but 1 & 2 clearly needed some tuning. Now that I think about it, I think it ate pellets faster on "1" than it should have based on some of the consumtion rates I've heard mentioned on this site...
Since this is probably what you'd now consider an old model, are there any modifications I could or should make to it? I noticed newer models have holes on the sides of the burner chamber, should I drill a hole in the side(s) of mine?
Is there any possibility of hooking up a battery backup to this stove? If so, can you please give me details on what I'd need to do?
When I move the stove upstairs, what's the minimum vertical flue requirement and should it be inside or outside the house? Where it exits the house, how far must it protrude outside the side of my house (the house is sided in old cedar shakes).
My stove is looking a little rusty from sitting in the basement all these years, any paint recommendations (that will actually last) so I can at least make it a little more aesthetically pleasing?
Lastly, since I never did get a manual, would you guys still by chance have a copy kicking around that you'd be willing to part with?
TIA!
I bought a 25-PDVC at Lowes about 7 years ago, it was manufactured 10/2000. It was a scratch and dent model and didn't come with a manual. I set it up in my basement and it seem to run well at higher feed settings, but at the lower settings in never ran correctly or efficiently as there would be a lot of buildup in the chamber and soot build up on the glass. Talking to the folks at Lowes never did resolve my issues and since I couldn't afford to run it at the higher settings (where it liked to run) it untimately went unused for the last 5 or 6 years... I think I ran 1 ton through it before it went into hibernation. Now that oil has gone through the roof, I've decided I'm going to bring it upstairs into the main living area for next winter and hopefully finally get it running correctly so I can put it into actual use. I probably wont do this until next fall, but I'd like to start planing now.
First off, what settings should I be running at? The mid and upper rate settings seemed fine, but 1 & 2 clearly needed some tuning. Now that I think about it, I think it ate pellets faster on "1" than it should have based on some of the consumtion rates I've heard mentioned on this site...
Since this is probably what you'd now consider an old model, are there any modifications I could or should make to it? I noticed newer models have holes on the sides of the burner chamber, should I drill a hole in the side(s) of mine?
Is there any possibility of hooking up a battery backup to this stove? If so, can you please give me details on what I'd need to do?
When I move the stove upstairs, what's the minimum vertical flue requirement and should it be inside or outside the house? Where it exits the house, how far must it protrude outside the side of my house (the house is sided in old cedar shakes).
My stove is looking a little rusty from sitting in the basement all these years, any paint recommendations (that will actually last) so I can at least make it a little more aesthetically pleasing?
Lastly, since I never did get a manual, would you guys still by chance have a copy kicking around that you'd be willing to part with?
TIA!
NJGirl said:
NJGirl, welcome to the forum. As for the settings on your stove, I'd try 6-4-1, or 5-5-1. What is it set at right now?
As for the auger direction, I'm not sure what you mean by "from right to left".
BTW, in the future, make a new thread for your questions....this one is "buried" and won't be seen by many people. I just stumbled across it myself.
Joshua Roberson
New Member
- Jan 8, 2013
- 4
Default is 6-4-1 just as the poster in this old thread, but every stove/install is different. Try those settings first.
I know this comment is old...The new models (2009 like mine), the bottom 3 buttons work on any heat setting correct?
if so,
if the LFF controls the the "on" time, what does the heat setting actually do?
Chris, the bottom buttons are just a "fine tuning" for the feed (heat) and blower (burn air) buttons. Every stove/install/pellet/exhaust is different, so this allows the individual user to fine tune to their situation.
Harvey Schneider
Minister of Fire
If you set the LAF too high the fire may burn itself out when heat range is set to 1 or 2. If you set LAF to low the fire may suffocate and go out when heat range is set to 1 or 2.
The inverse is true of LFF. If it is set too low the fire may burn itself out, if it is set too high the fire may suffocate under the unburned pellets.
It's a balancing act and it takes small adjustments to get an acceptable balance.
If my stove runs too hot on 1 and 2, should I start lowering feed rate and blower together a notch at a time until I find the fire I want?
Thank you!
Thank you!
Harvey Schneider
Minister of Fire
You should start by lowering low fuel feed,Then when you see how it burns, make adjustments as needed to low burn air. If the air is too much the burn will be clean but it will burn out the remaining pellets and the fire will go out. If the air is too little the burn will be sooty and may eventually go out.
Thanks, Harvey! I lowered the feed rate two notches over a couple of hours and left the blower alone, and it seems to burn perfectly now at low settings. I'm so glad I found this thread—now I won't have to keep opening windows when the outside temps rise above 40!
Harvey Schneider
Minister of Fire
You may still want to experiment with reducing the low burn air setting. More air than is essential results in more heat up the chimney.
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