Enviro M55 fs lubrication

[ChevyGuy]

Hey Guys,

I have searched the threads here to find out how and what to lubricate on my enviro M55 fs pellet stoves. This is the first years of owning this house and stoves. Not sure the year of the stoves but I see it has the new convection fan motor. Previous owner told me the stoves were only a few years old. I just did a cleaning of everything I could get to. Q: is there anything I should take apart and clean the inside of besides the chimney and interior smoke passage ways? More importantly, what is able to be lubricated as part of the annual maintenance? And where on these parts do I lubricate? I don't see any obvious ports to drop a few drops of oil into. Thanks

 

[nailed_nailer]

Hey CG..
I'm a Ford guy but I'll see if I can help out.
Not sure if you have a steel or cast stove so I'll keep this generic

Only a few places to lube on the stove.
The agitator chain Few drops of oil.
The left end of the Agitator Rod. High Temp anti-seize.
If you have a clean out "T" the threads on the removable cap. Same Anti-seize.

For the chain any good light machine oil will work (3-1, 30w motor oil, etc)
For the agitator rod and the clean out T. I use Loctite C5-A It came with the stove form Enviro.

For Deep clean.......
Unplug, spread drop cloth, Get tools ready including vac
Remove Vent Pipe at the appliance adapter/clean out "T"
Remove top, sides, and back panel.
Open door
-remove fire box top skirt
-remove agitator rod
-remove fire box liner
-remove fire box

-push up on baffle plate and remove back panel carefully
-lift rear panel shelf (the one with the two access holes) straight up then out
-close door and run the heat exchanger tube scraper in and out a few times.
-brush/vacuum inside of fire area including up around the heat exchanger tubes.
-open ash pan door and remove ash pan.
-clean/vac out ash pan area

-using paper towel clean glass. (I use a damp paper towel dipped in ash to clean)
-wipe dry and apply coat of Ceramic glass cleaner/sealer. I use the Rutland brand.
-wipe that off and you are done cleaning the inside.

Take all removed fire box related item outside for good scraping/chipping session.
-I use a painters 5-1 tool for chipping scraping works well for me.
-Chip/Scrape/Beat the snot out of.... all clinker/scale from fire box liner. Get it clean down to bare metal! Carbon is hard to see sometimes.
-scrape the fire box itself, especially the skirt edges
-scrape the agitator rod clean, especially the ends of the nubs

Replace all fire box "guts" back into the stove
-start with the rear panel and baffle plate
-then the firebox
-then the firebox liner
-then the agitator rod. Apply a smear of Loctite C5-A to the left end of rod
-then the top skirt

At this point you are done inside. Close the glass door and the ash pan door.
Get a beverage.

Now the blowers
On left side is the exhaust blower
-mark connectors and pull apart
-using TORX screwdriver remove blower. Be mindful of gasket. Try to re-use or have spare handy.
-clean/scrape/vac blower plenum area on the stove
-pull off the (orange-ish) silicone vacuum tube and run a paper clip into the hole.

On right side is convection/room air blower
-mark connectors and pull apart
-loosen/remove the bolts holding the blower in place
-While supporting the room blower.....slide it out to the right Be careful not to drop it and bend the vanes.
-Vac up inside of rear portion of stove (loose pellets/dog hair/etc.

I use a compressed air, an old tooth brush, angled scraper, etc to clean the exhaust blower.
A bit of mineral spirits/carbon remover (Seafoam, Berrymans, etc) helps.
blow clean and dry

For the convection/room air blower I use compressed air, CRC electronic cleaner and an old toothbrush.

IIRC neither blower needs lubrication.

Grab a beverage.

Replace the blowers back into stove mindful of connectors

Now clean the vent pipe.
Caution....This part is messy
My install is a 14' straight vertical pipe
I run a 4" dryer vent brush up the pipe while holding a vacuum at the bottom.
I run it up and down in a scrubbing motion until nothing else falls out.
I lubricate the threads of the clean out "T" with a few smears of the Loctite C5-A

Finish up
Re-connect the vent pipe to the stove
Replace the side panels
Replace the top. Ensure the daughter board (controller pad) is firmly connected on its ribbon cable

You should be good to go.

Couple of tips.....
A vacuum adapter tube is handy. It takes a 2"-ish vacuum hose down to 1/2'. To reach into the small nooks and crannys of stove
A very used sponge with a green scrubby side works great at cleaning the glass
A Shop-Vac with HEPA filter keeps the wife happy and dust off the living room furniture
An oil filter wrench works great at unscrewing the Clean out "T" cap if stuck on.
Extensive reading and "SEARCHING" of the Heart.com forum will provide years of knowledge from many great people

Hope I didn't miss anything
Good Luck with stove.
---Nailer---

 

[johneh]

What he said
If you don't have a manual get one here
http://enviro.com/media/manuals/

 

[ChevyGuy]

Hey CG..
I'm a Ford guy but I'll see if I can help out.
Not sure if you have a steel or cast stove so I'll keep this generic

Only a few places to lube on the stove.
The agitator chain Few drops of oil.
The left end of the Agitator Rod. High Temp anti-seize.
If you have a clean out "T" the threads on the removable cap. Same Anti-seize.

For the chain any good light machine oil will work (3-1, 30w motor oil, etc)
For the agitator rod and the clean out T. I use Loctite C5-A It came with the stove form Enviro.

For Deep clean.......
Unplug, spread drop cloth, Get tools ready including vac
Remove Vent Pipe at the appliance adapter/clean out "T"
Remove top, sides, and back panel.
Open door
-remove fire box top skirt
-remove agitator rod
-remove fire box liner
-remove fire box

-push up on baffle plate and remove back panel carefully
-lift rear panel shelf (the one with the two access holes) straight up then out
-close door and run the heat exchanger tube scraper in and out a few times.
-brush/vacuum inside of fire area including up around the heat exchanger tubes.
-open ash pan door and remove ash pan.
-clean/vac out ash pan area

-using paper towel clean glass. (I use a damp paper towel dipped in ash to clean)
-wipe dry and apply coat of Ceramic glass cleaner/sealer. I use the Rutland brand.
-wipe that off and you are done cleaning the inside.

Take all removed fire box related item outside for good scraping/chipping session.
-I use a painters 5-1 tool for chipping scraping works well for me.
-Chip/Scrape/Beat the snot out of.... all clinker/scale from fire box liner. Get it clean down to bare metal! Carbon is hard to see sometimes.
-scrape the fire box itself, especially the skirt edges
-scrape the agitator rod clean, especially the ends of the nubs

Replace all fire box "guts" back into the stove
-start with the rear panel and baffle plate
-then the firebox
-then the firebox liner
-then the agitator rod. Apply a smear of Loctite C5-A to the left end of rod
-then the top skirt

At this point you are done inside. Close the glass door and the ash pan door.
Get a beverage.

Now the blowers
On left side is the exhaust blower
-mark connectors and pull apart
-using TORX screwdriver remove blower. Be mindful of gasket. Try to re-use or have spare handy.
-clean/scrape/vac blower plenum area on the stove
-pull off the (orange-ish) silicone vacuum tube and run a paper clip into the hole.

On right side is convection/room air blower
-mark connectors and pull apart
-loosen/remove the bolts holding the blower in place
-While supporting the room blower.....slide it out to the right Be careful not to drop it and bend the vanes.
-Vac up inside of rear portion of stove (loose pellets/dog hair/etc.

I use a compressed air, an old tooth brush, angled scraper, etc to clean the exhaust blower.
A bit of mineral spirits/carbon remover (Seafoam, Berrymans, etc) helps.
blow clean and dry

For the convection/room air blower I use compressed air, CRC electronic cleaner and an old toothbrush.

IIRC neither blower needs lubrication.

Grab a beverage.

Replace the blowers back into stove mindful of connectors

Now clean the vent pipe.
Caution....This part is messy
My install is a 14' straight vertical pipe
I run a 4" dryer vent brush up the pipe while holding a vacuum at the bottom.
I run it up and down in a scrubbing motion until nothing else falls out.
I lubricate the threads of the clean out "T" with a few smears of the Loctite C5-A

Finish up
Re-connect the vent pipe to the stove
Replace the side panels
Replace the top. Ensure the daughter board (controller pad) is firmly connected on its ribbon cable

You should be good to go.

Couple of tips.....
A vacuum adapter tube is handy. It takes a 2"-ish vacuum hose down to 1/2'. To reach into the small nooks and crannys of stove
A very used sponge with a green scrubby side works great at cleaning the glass
A Shop-Vac with HEPA filter keeps the wife happy and dust off the living room furniture
An oil filter wrench works great at unscrewing the Clean out "T" cap if stuck on.
Extensive reading and "SEARCHING" of the Heart.com forum will provide years of knowledge from many great people

Hope I didn't miss anything
Good Luck with stove.
---Nailer---

Wow Nailer, I can't thank you enough. I have already cleaned a lot of it but now you have verified that I should be taking the exhaust blower and industion fans out also and cleaning. I think I may also take off the auger motor and get better access to do a proper cleaning of that also. All the regular cleaning with chipping the carbon is old hat after last season. I run 2 of these stoves and clean them once a week. Thinking of using a glass beader to clean the parts.
Again, thank you for such a complete respsonce to my question. I really appreciate it

 

[nailed_nailer]

No prob. Just paying it forward for all who have helped me in the past.

Oh BTW....I usually do this deep clean about every other ton in mine. And at end of season.

Really mark the blower connections well. IIRC they are all Blue slip lug connectors but different wire colors. A few of them connect to the capacitors.

Glass bead blaster or soda blaster would work well but overkill for weekly cleanings.
I thought of getting the burnpot in my old EF-2 chromed. But talked myself out of it as it would burn off.

BTW....Taking off the Auger motor is probably overkill. But no harm..

FYI... Be nice if you put your stove details in your sig. Still don't know if you have a Steel or Cast unit.

Stay Warm,
---Nailer---

 

[ChevyGuy]

No prob. Just paying it forward for all who have helped me in the past.

Oh BTW....I usually do this deep clean about every other ton in mine. And at end of season.

Really mark the blower connections well. IIRC they are all Blue slip lug connectors but different wire colors. A few of them connect to the capacitors.

Glass bead blaster or soda blaster would work well but overkill for weekly cleanings.
I thought of getting the burnpot in my old EF-2 chromed. But talked myself out of it as it would burn off.

BTW....Taking off the Auger motor is probably overkill. But no harm..

FYI... Be nice if you put your stove details in your sig. Still don't know if you have a Steel or Cast unit.

Stay Warm,
---Nailer---

Thanks again. Mine is a cast model. I will put that info on my profile soon.

 

[JimEvansCT]

That's good stuff Nailer. Thanks for sharing. I have the hampton GC60 FS which from what I've seen and read it is the M55FS so i did everything but the blowers. Looks like i have some additional work to do this weekend. You always learn something on here.

 

[stovelark]

Hi Nailer- excellent cleaning words, don't forgot to touch up everything interior and exterior to make it look like new. For the end of the year cleanings, we put desiccant bags in peoples' burnpots to soak up any moisture over the summer months. Stay warm.

 

[vickiebernie]

when i go to put in my baffle and fit it in on top of the firebox liner it doesn't seem to be in right. When I start the stove it falls. What am i doing wrong?
Vickie

 

[johneh]

Look into the fire box where the baffle goes there are 4 slots 2 on each side
make sure that the tangs are in the slots

 

[JRemington]

Hey CG..
I'm a Ford guy but I'll see if I can help out.
Not sure if you have a steel or cast stove so I'll keep this generic

Only a few places to lube on the stove.
The agitator chain Few drops of oil.
The left end of the Agitator Rod. High Temp anti-seize.
If you have a clean out "T" the threads on the removable cap. Same Anti-seize.

For the chain any good light machine oil will work (3-1, 30w motor oil, etc)
For the agitator rod and the clean out T. I use Loctite C5-A It came with the stove form Enviro.

For Deep clean.......
Unplug, spread drop cloth, Get tools ready including vac
Remove Vent Pipe at the appliance adapter/clean out "T"
Remove top, sides, and back panel.
Open door
-remove fire box top skirt
-remove agitator rod
-remove fire box liner
-remove fire box

-push up on baffle plate and remove back panel carefully
-lift rear panel shelf (the one with the two access holes) straight up then out
-close door and run the heat exchanger tube scraper in and out a few times.
-brush/vacuum inside of fire area including up around the heat exchanger tubes.
-open ash pan door and remove ash pan.
-clean/vac out ash pan area

-using paper towel clean glass. (I use a damp paper towel dipped in ash to clean)
-wipe dry and apply coat of Ceramic glass cleaner/sealer. I use the Rutland brand.
-wipe that off and you are done cleaning the inside.

Take all removed fire box related item outside for good scraping/chipping session.
-I use a painters 5-1 tool for chipping scraping works well for me.
-Chip/Scrape/Beat the snot out of.... all clinker/scale from fire box liner. Get it clean down to bare metal! Carbon is hard to see sometimes.
-scrape the fire box itself, especially the skirt edges
-scrape the agitator rod clean, especially the ends of the nubs

Replace all fire box "guts" back into the stove
-start with the rear panel and baffle plate
-then the firebox
-then the firebox liner
-then the agitator rod. Apply a smear of Loctite C5-A to the left end of rod
-then the top skirt

At this point you are done inside. Close the glass door and the ash pan door.
Get a beverage.

Now the blowers
On left side is the exhaust blower
-mark connectors and pull apart
-using TORX screwdriver remove blower. Be mindful of gasket. Try to re-use or have spare handy.
-clean/scrape/vac blower plenum area on the stove
-pull off the (orange-ish) silicone vacuum tube and run a paper clip into the hole.

On right side is convection/room air blower
-mark connectors and pull apart
-loosen/remove the bolts holding the blower in place
-While supporting the room blower.....slide it out to the right Be careful not to drop it and bend the vanes.
-Vac up inside of rear portion of stove (loose pellets/dog hair/etc.

I use a compressed air, an old tooth brush, angled scraper, etc to clean the exhaust blower.
A bit of mineral spirits/carbon remover (Seafoam, Berrymans, etc) helps.
blow clean and dry

For the convection/room air blower I use compressed air, CRC electronic cleaner and an old toothbrush.

IIRC neither blower needs lubrication.

Grab a beverage.

Replace the blowers back into stove mindful of connectors

Now clean the vent pipe.
Caution....This part is messy
My install is a 14' straight vertical pipe
I run a 4" dryer vent brush up the pipe while holding a vacuum at the bottom.
I run it up and down in a scrubbing motion until nothing else falls out.
I lubricate the threads of the clean out "T" with a few smears of the Loctite C5-A

Finish up
Re-connect the vent pipe to the stove
Replace the side panels
Replace the top. Ensure the daughter board (controller pad) is firmly connected on its ribbon cable

You should be good to go.

Couple of tips.....
A vacuum adapter tube is handy. It takes a 2"-ish vacuum hose down to 1/2'. To reach into the small nooks and crannys of stove
A very used sponge with a green scrubby side works great at cleaning the glass
A Shop-Vac with HEPA filter keeps the wife happy and dust off the living room furniture
An oil filter wrench works great at unscrewing the Clean out "T" cap if stuck on.
Extensive reading and "SEARCHING" of the Heart.com forum will provide years of knowledge from many great people

Hope I didn't miss anything
Good Luck with stove.
---Nailer---

That’s a $300.00 cleaning job right there. Good write up.

 

[vickiebernie]

Look into the fire box where the baffle goes there are 4 slots 2 on each side
make sure that the tangs are in the slots

Thanks - i think i got it, for some silly reason I had the lip at the back on top of the bar, under the bar i found the two screws you line up with the holes on the baffle and then push in the back liner. Now it definitely is in.

Thanks you have been helpful.

These forums have sure answered a lot of questions.