ESW Add-on air temp question

[M1sterM]

I've bought the Englander add-on furnace, and while I do a bit more remodelling/additions to the house, I need to run it as a stand-alone for a year or two. (Don't bother telling me it will heat best when married to an existing forced air furnace...I know that already ). My question is, can anyone give me the air-temp range for the outlet air, at full burn as well as, say, mid-point through a burn cycle. I know if will by very variable, depending on fuel conditions and more, but I'm just trying to get an idea.

For now, I'll have a 8' run of 8" pipe, then an 8" T, then 2, 6' or so runs of 6" pipe to 2 difference sections of the house (2 6" runs will give me just a hair more cross-sectional area than the 8" outlet, so I should be in good shape). I'd rather keep the air heated, rather than the air around the duct (mostly utility room area which will get plenty hot from the furnace itself), so one of my decisions is whether to insulate the ducts or not, and I also wonder if the air temp is too high for insulated flexible ducting.

 

[smokinj]

I've bought the Englander add-on furnace, and while I do a bit more remodelling/additions to the house, I need to run it as a stand-alone for a year or two. (Don't bother telling me it will heat best when married to an existing forced air furnace...I know that already ). My question is, can anyone give me the air-temp range for the outlet air, at full burn as well as, say, mid-point through a burn cycle. I know if will by very variable, depending on fuel conditions and more, but I'm just trying to get an idea.

For now, I'll have a 8' run of 8" pipe, then an 8" T, then 2, 6' or so runs of 6" pipe to 2 difference sections of the house (2 6" runs will give me just a hair more cross-sectional area than the 8" outlet, so I should be in good shape). I'd rather keep the air heated, rather than the air around the duct (mostly utility room area which will get plenty hot from the furnace itself), so one of my decisions is whether to insulate the ducts or not, and I also wonder if the air temp is too high for insulated flexible ducting.

about 220-250 at the stove and i have seen as high as 160 at the last vent.I have mine set up as a stand alone as well can give you some tip after you set it up!

 

[Redox]

Yes, those things can put out some serious heat. I wouldn't suggest flexible ductwork, unless it is that aluminum flex stuff. The flexible polyester duct is generally rated to only 180F continuous and 250F intermittent. I believe it is possible to exceed this in a power failure or loss of airflow situation. Personally, I'd stick with hard metal ductwork.

Chris

 

[jebatty]

(Don’t bother telling me it will heat best when married to an existing forced air furnace...I know that already).

It will heat best when married to the babe who is hot in your eyes. ;-)

 

[Duetech]

Ran one for 17 years as add on. Tied in to main plenum. Had insulated flex pipe at end of main trunk going under addition through crawl space. Never had a problem. Had a weighted draft damper that restricted back flow to furnace cold air return but every now and then the furnace limit switch would get enough heat to start the blower. About 160*f. Actually need bigger forced air blower on the unit for the colder part of winter but had to open the house door when the draft was too open in warmer weather. Still it was a nice unit...Cave2k