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Posted By brenndatomu,
Feb 8, 2015 at 9:42 PM
moving these things is a is a pain. Takes 4 guys and a dolly to do it easily, safely without breaking crap.
Thats any wood furnace this size. I used a long 4"x4" through the front door out the flue hole for moving. First remove the air box, fan motor, glass door and clean out door to make it lighter.
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Yelp if feel like an idiot! It was the damper switch on the tundra. To be honest I forgot it was there. I've never used it. I bet the wife flipped it so I was out of her hair for a couple days!! Sorry to make you write all that, although I wasn't sure what some of the settings were for. Thank you very much sir!!
Are you saying you lifted the entire stove by the top heat exchanger box? I think you are. I hope you didn't stress anything or crack it. Typically these stoves are moved by the bottom. We have no issues moving them I just like to complain seeing as I have installed, uninstalled and re installed.. then un installed, moved and installed it again. lol. its getting old. haha
Once you have a timer that factory switch has no use and probably should be disconnected. I have to admit mine is still there too but I am the only one that operates the furnace. Glad you found the issue.
Not entirely, but hauling it down a stairs is difficult and there isn't much room. A long piece of wood gives you more room and lets people spread out a little more.
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There is a factory installed, factory designated pick point on top of the heat exchanger. There is no better way to lift the Tundra , can't speak for the Tundra 2.
Posting here for some help. So my Tundra developed cracks after about 2.5 years in service. I've seen the numerous people here who have had cracks as well. I emailed SBI about it and they said it would be covered under warranty but surprisingly they sent me this 27 page document and want me to find a welder/handyman who will come in and follow it step by step: drill a bunch of holes and weld it up and add a bunch of modified parts to my furnace (and it's supposed to take 30 minutes, seems to me it would take a lot longer than that). I know a few people here have welded their furnaces and had maybe some success? no success? Anyway, I'm not sure I'm ready to accept the answer to my furnace cracking is to have a welder come in and drill and weld it back together.
What do you think?
What is the serial number on your Tundra? I've got two in the 1340's and SBI sent me updated firebrick for the front of the firebox. That is probably the modified parts they will send. Those may help prevent future cracking. Others will comment on the effectiveness of a weld repair. Mine have not cracked, probably in part to the modified firebrick, but perhaps more to the fact I have installed flue temp monitoring that prevents an overheat situation. The factory controls allow things to get too hot during extended times the air inlet can be open in my opinion.
I had updated firebrick from the beginning. It's sad. I've been burning wood for a while now...ran a Daka furnace for years and that thing was a beast. Never cracked and it used to get way hotter than the Tundra ever has.
How old is it?
How much trouble would it be to swap out?
If it is pretty new, or in a basement with easy access for large/bulky 500# objects, I'd tend to lean on them harder for a replacement...if it is a few years old, or in a bugger of a spot, I would lean more toward trying the repair...as long as they would still replace it if the weld/repair didn't hold. If they won't stand behind it after the repair, then I would demand a new one...my 2 cents...
It's 2.5 years old, been using it now for almost 2 full seasons.
At this point, they are saying I have to return the unit to Menards...there's no way I have the ability to do that. Very disappointed in their customer service up to this point. Not sure why they are not offering me the same credit/refund they did for numerous people in here. I'm just not comfortable with a weld repair and I don't have the capability to return this thing 2 hours to Menards.
You have to return it? Yeah that's new...what the heck is Menards gonna do with it?
Sounds like you need to find a good welder...shouldn't be too hard...most community's have several. Welding it wouldn't bother me in the least...I still plan to weld mine at some point (I bought it cracked) As discussed earlier in this thread, I have been running it cracked to see if certain mods would stop the crack from growing without welding it...but it did eventually grow some over time...its has not affected the function of the furnace one bit.
Will they exchange it for a newer Tundra II ? I think they've redesigned enough to address the cracking problem, at least I hope so.
I'm convinced the cracking was caused by the lack of a damper controller. That's what's different about the Tundra 2. It's also several hundred dollars more. I'll take my controller system over the T2 any day and keep a few hundred in my pocket.
So they are willing to do what if you return it to the store where you bought it? What would you like for them to do?
U mean that eyelit? Im aware its on there but my guess is that was for setting the heat exchanger. In my updated model of the Tundra 1 that had the redesign to fix the over fire issue and cracking... the heat exchanger box is somewhat free floating. I am sure its welded at some point however thru the front of the fire box the HE is completely free and expands as well moves in and out with heating. I realize steel moves when it heats however I do think part of the design of the HE is to allow for movement so it may not be a great idea to lift the entire furnace by it even if there is an eyelit hook spot on the top of it. Also it appears cracks in the HE are somewhat common as its happened to several so lifting by that section of the stove may weaken already weak welds. I guess I would try to avoid it knowing what I do about these stoves.
Demand a replacement and demand they ship it directly to you. Tell them they can take the old one if they want it from your house.. They won't want it. They will want you to cut or peel the serial number label off and return it to them. I never actually did and sold the old cracked one for $500. SBI will replaced it and will ship the new one right to you if you send them the proper photos of a quality install and speak to them properly. I got it done. Good luck. SBI in my opinion is great and the updated model of Tundra 1 is a great stove. Works better than the first design and doesn't over fire and crack. Give them a ear full about how they shouldn't use their customers to beta test stove models which is apparently what happened with Tundra 1. That may push them.
This is my 4th winter on serial #377 T1. I have all the factory upgrades and have been just useing the spa timer this year. Still no cracks!
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Variable speed blower control for the Tundra/Heatmax:
Totaline P251-0083H Head pressure control (Ebay)
5k, 10 turn pot https://www.mcmaster.com/#7436k31/=1be087q or EBay equivalent.
adjustable snap switch - https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-adjustable-fan-switch-90-130-6uee1/i/G3923787/
120vac to 24vac transformer similar to https://www.mcmaster.com/#7708k21/=1be9sew (something much smaller would do)
Notes: Mount thermistor to sheet metal above the heat exchanger. Do not just hang loosely in the heated airstream.
Set both pots to MAX on the Totaline control.
The existing fan snap switch can be replaced with the adjustable one, or just left in place and the adjustable switch wired in parallel with the existing. The adjustable snap switch is set so it shuts down the speed control/blower when plenum temps get low and the blower motor runs slow. The control will eventually shut it off with out the switch but in my opinion it's at too low a RPM for a bushing motor.
The 10 turn pot is to shift the operating temperature range to be suitable for plenum temps, it was originally designed for a/c condenser temps which are lower (70-100F)
You may ask yourself, why don't I just get 24VAC from the factory Tundra transformer? DO NOT. It is shut down when the limit switch is tripped, just the time when you need the blower running the most.
The thermistor supplied with the P251-00083H is usable but I wanted something a little more substantial and used this : https://www.zoro.com/dwyer-instruments-duct-temp-probe-10k-ohm-type-2-4-in-l-te-dfn-b0448-00/i/G7609682/
Any 10K ohm Type 2 thermistor will do, I mounted mine in a block of aluminum screwed to the front most duct opening cover - see picture.
Standard disclaimer - if you blow up your blower motor or burn down your house - that's on you. That said I'm on my 3rd season with this set up with no issues.
These diagrams apply to the original Tundra. Tundra II and Heatpro owners have a different fan control, pretty sure this could be adapted but your wiring will be different.
Great write up @3fordasho.
If you don't want to have to worry about wiring up an additional 24V transformer you can also buy a unit that has a built in 24V transformer. I have the ICM326HN which has a built in 24V transformer and have been happy with it so far.
Any suggestions for a fluid comparative to dwyers gauge oil? I inadvertantly dumped the gauge oil out and wondering if there is something else I can use/buy at a hardware that has a comparative weight to the gauge oil. I hate ordering crap on the web.
You will need the red gauge oil again to be accurate...it has a specific gravity that the gauge is designed around