Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...

Case1030

Member
Dec 12, 2017
185
Manitoba
I've got the same chimney height and a couple times every heating season when I get high enough winds from the south (no tree protection from that direction) I will see 500F+ flue temps. Otherwise 350-400 is normal for me as well. During those relatively rare events I remove the paper clip that holds the air inlet slightly open and use aluminum tape to reduce the openings for secondary air by about half to tame things down a bit. I did purchase a BD and probably should install it but so far have not. The extra flue temp during these events also increases plenum temps and with no tree protection from the south the house needs the extra heat.
Are you using the same temp controller settings as before? Think it's like 600f off/ 400f on when your timer is activated along with 275 minimum flue...

Also do you still own both of the original Tundra1 no cracks?
 

3fordasho

Minister of Fire
Jul 20, 2007
813
South Central Minnesota
Are you using the same temp controller settings as before? Think it's like 600f off/ 400f on when your timer is activated along with 275 minimum flue...

Also do you still own both of the original Tundra1 no cracks?
Pretty much same settings, 625f off, 425f on, 280f minimum flue. Still using both Tundra's, The one in the house that runs full time just developed its first crack this heating season.
tundracrack1.jpg


I'm not too concerned about it ;-) This furnace owes me nothing.
 

Case1030

Member
Dec 12, 2017
185
Manitoba
Pretty much same settings, 625f off, 425f on, 280f minimum flue. Still using both Tundra's, The one in the house that runs full time just developed its first crack this heating season.View attachment 238447

I'm not too concerned about it ;-) This furnace owes me nothing.
When that one is worn out hit sbi up and get your new t2 lol. I'd say that's the best investment putting a temp controller on that funace. How many times does your damper open per heating cycle?
 

3fordasho

Minister of Fire
Jul 20, 2007
813
South Central Minnesota
When that one is worn out hit sbi up and get your new t2 lol. I'd say that's the best investment putting a temp controller on that funace. How many times does your damper open per hearing cycle?
Even with the minor cracking I can see this thing going another 5-10 years no problem. I wouldn't own one with out the additional controls, my favorite part of the furnace. The variable speed blower modification is right up there too. As far a number of damper openings, it depends a lot on wood size, moisture content and wood load. A full load of really dry elm split medium/small will not cycle the damper much at all till into the coaling stage. Tonight I had a load of larger split size elm and hard maple that could be a bit dryer- that load cycled the damper some though out the entire burn cycle.
 

Case1030

Member
Dec 12, 2017
185
Manitoba
Even with the minor cracking I can see this thing going another 5-10 years no problem. I wouldn't own one with out the additional controls, my favorite part of the furnace. The variable speed blower modification is right up there too. As far a number of damper openings, it depends a lot on wood size, moisture content and wood load. A full load of really dry elm split medium/small will not cycle the damper much at all till into the coaling stage. Tonight I had a load of larger split size elm and hard maple that could be a bit dryer- that load cycled the damper some though out the entire burn cycle.
Oh yeah I found the same. Iv been burning subpar wood, but notice when I add my nice 3 year old css oak it makes a huge difference.

Thats pretty impressive results. Your still loading both shop and house stove every day?
 

3fordasho

Minister of Fire
Jul 20, 2007
813
South Central Minnesota
Oh yeah I found the same. Iv been burning subpar wood, but notice when I add my nice 3 year old css oak it makes a huge difference.

Thats pretty impressive results. Your still loading both shop and house stove every day?
Three loads a day thru the house furnace, shop furnace when needed for projects - couple nights a week plus week ends much of the time. I do have a propane unit heater that kicks on at 34F for times when I'm not out there to stoke the wood furnace. The propane heater really only runs when I need the extra heat to quickly warm a cold shop, the wood furnace alone would take hours - lots of cold concrete out there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Case1030

Case1030

Member
Dec 12, 2017
185
Manitoba
How does it make a big difference? Besides starting really quick.
Burns longer than my other wood (maple, ash, jack pine, elm). Around here oak is the premium wood if css for 3 years. I guess you could compare it to black locust because that's the only wood species here that comes close to the btu. ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: brenndatomu

DoubleB

Minister of Fire
Mar 4, 2014
658
NE Wisconsin
The one in the house that runs full time just developed its first crack this heating season.
Sorry to hear that, but ironic I was just thinking about you a couple days ago that you're the only Tundra 1 (x2) I can think of that hadn't cracked yet.

Can we think of any uncracked Tundras out there yet?
 

Teglovinvtec

Member
Nov 11, 2016
25
Upstate NY
Guys am I missing something because this is my second season heating with this season wood super dry and this thing is struggling to keep me warm on a 30 degree day. The first season I had windows open I’m cleaning the chimney and heat exchanger is there something I’m over looking. Chimney draft on manomometer is -.04-0.6 any help would be appreciated
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,135
NE Ohio
Hows it burning? Everything seem good overall?
Check your baffle, make sure its in its proper place and slid clear back
 

Teglovinvtec

Member
Nov 11, 2016
25
Upstate NY
Burns well and clean burn times are shitty bc its constantly calling for heat house is only 1300sq foot baffle is all the way back. How do the burn tubes come out so I can remove baffle and scrape maybe there buildup I couldn’t feel anything with my hand. My duct temps are only 80-85 compared to last year around 110
 

JRHAWK9

Minister of Fire
Jan 8, 2014
1,144
Wisconsin Dells, WI
My duct temps are only 80-85 compared to last year around 110
What is the difference in your ΔT (return vs supply temp) from this year to last? Supply temps will only tell one side of the story.

Are you 100% SURE you are burning dry wood?

How about stack temps? Have those gone up over last year?
 
Last edited:

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,135
NE Ohio
The manual shows how to get the tubes out...just a partial twist, then slide it sideways and out...I'd pop a couple out and pull the baffle...check to see how much buildup is on the top of the firebox above the baffle board...that is a large heat exchange area too...doesnt usually need cleaned, but something has changed for you!
 

Teglovinvtec

Member
Nov 11, 2016
25
Upstate NY
Well I pulled the burn tubes out cleaned the top part of firebox we will see what happens. I also saw that the baffle on top wasn’t seated completely where it goes I’m guessing when loading it moved
 
  • Like
Reactions: brenndatomu

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,135
NE Ohio
That thing running wide open for long periods of time is what SBI was claiming is making them crack...not that I buy that theory...its certainly not the most efficient way to run them!
Did you hook up a tstat that you weren't using before?
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,135
NE Ohio
Been using a tstat since day one
Any difference since you cleaned it?
When you clean the HE's, do they clean up real nice, like down to bare metal? I had one time I got into a little wood that was apparently not as dry as it could have been, left a hard layer of soot on the HE walls...really had to scratch to get it all off...it helped, but still didn't make a huge difference.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sloeffle

Mrpelletburner

Minister of Fire
Jan 20, 2011
532
N.H.
Question regarding the operation of the Tundra II.

Without any mods installed, out of the box setup, does the distribution blower stay on without the thermostat calling for heat.

Trying to get a better understanding of how this furnace functions. I know the thermostat controls the primary air by opening/closing a flap. Just wondering how many people actually use the thermostat to control the heat.

Can’t locate any videos of this unit on YouTube.

Also looking for a video on how the Caddy operates.