Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...

[3fordasho]

So it sounds like you have the return air hooked up...that may be the difference.
I bet you would be surprised how much the filter restricts flow with gravity heating....even a clean filter.

Yes- this is why one of the 8" outlet ducts are cold and one hot before the fan kicks in on a cold start up - gravity flow would rather go that way then though the filter.

 

[jb6l6gc]

Also depends on the filter. I started with a very good paper filter and had to go to a low end strand type filter because it was too restrictive and was causing low air flow

 

[STIHLY DAN]

View attachment 192299

The foil is because i am lazy an just jammed the copper tubing on the fitting stretching the copper a bit but was still loose so i just wrapped it w foil tape. Has held for a year or more now easy. Why mess w it? Lol


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What is that ugly copper tubing doing?

 

[STIHLY DAN]

@Digger79 I like to do it like this.

 

[Digger79]

What is that ugly copper tubing doing?

Lol what ya mean ugly? . Its nothing more than an extension to prevent the rubber hose from melting. Any bends u see in it were just to hold it in position. I rigged it up quick an re located it again leaving pipe bent. Brenn sends me this draft measuring thingy an i had to call him to figure out how to use it properly lol but all i had was a short fitting an a rubber hose w the kit so i grabbed the first piece of metal tube i could find, jammed it on over fitting an foil taped it planning on a more permanent connection that never got done an just aint really needed. I have a camera setup on the dials an was monitoring draft speeds thru out burns to move along faster in understanding were temps would be at dif draft readings. I can remotely monitor an control the entire setup from my phone. T stat, temp controller, power all of it has remote controlling capabilities using my phone an wifi junk. I been meaning to set up a over fire alarm just hadnt got around to it. I do have power loss alarms that go to my phone so I can run home if power goes out. Planning on a battery backup system ive found that will run tundra for about a day if power goes out. Charges an grid power runs thru. No kids no wife no life lol just me an the stove lmao

 

[Digger79]

@Digger79 I like to do it like this.

Yeah i got same fitting but my first tundra was over firing an i was worried id melt the rubber.. now i know the rubber be fine since my flu an fires r now under control i just never took it out.

 

[Digger79]

I think copper is pretty Dan

 

[STIHLY DAN]

No kids no wife no life lol just me

That sounds like 1 hell of a life. Yes the copper is not needed, It was a poor attempt on my part to slightly instigate you on needing it. Major fail, I'll just have to do better next time

 

[Digger79]

So Im wondering if the guy I ran into in Menards ever found this thread. Lived just south of indy or maybe a bit farther can't rem. He was looking at the Tundra on clearance and it was the old 1st model. I warned him about the cracking issues and need for proper operation to avoid it and sent him to this website and this Thread. You out there Partner? This was a month ago or more now. Hope he found the thread. Hope it helped.

 

[Erik MN]

For $800 take it and run with it. If it cracks you'll end up getting your money back. I would guess that at $800 it pays for itself in one season of use. Best of luck.

Hi guys!

Well, for better or worse I ended up purchasing a Tundra from Menards. I couldn't pass up the deal on the few display models around in the area. Ended up at $799 with an 11% discount off of that. So... now comes the questions. I read through the 86 pages of discussion and feel like I learned a ton from you all. I am impressed at all of the modifications / upgrades many of you have done. Before I fire it up or anything else, what do you all recommend for a new furnace with serial number 1005? Should I be contacting SBI regarding upgrades? Would you recommend I install some upgrades or controllers/monitoring devices? I appreciate the advice you have given me as well as what other stuff you think I need to know.
Thanks again for all of your info!

 

[Darbycrash]

Hi guys!

Well, for better or worse I ended up purchasing a Tundra from Menards. I couldn't pass up the deal on the few display models around in the area. Ended up at $799 with an 11% discount off of that. So... now comes the questions. I read through the 86 pages of discussion and feel like I learned a ton from you all. I am impressed at all of the modifications / upgrades many of you have done. Before I fire it up or anything else, what do you all recommend for a new furnace with serial number 1005? Should I be contacting SBI regarding upgrades? Would you recommend I install some upgrades or controllers/monitoring devices? I appreciate the advice you have given me as well as what other stuff you think I need to know.
Thanks again for all of your info!

I just bought mine and its a 1700 serial number. Is your heat exchanger welded where it protrudes from the front plate? Also I contacted SBI and they sent me the update kit. I think that if the exchanger is not welded and has a small gap, the cracking around it should be mitigated. However as for the door, the firebrick update should help a little

 

[DoubleB]

Before I fire it up or anything else, what do you all recommend for a new furnace with serial number 1005?

Depends upon how interested you are to tinker on it. If that kind of thing is fun for you, then I'd add a temp controller early on. I'd add the front firebrick too, that's not hard. Either way, I think it's fine to start using it straight out of the crate, but I'd just ease into it over several days. Even if you want to do the modifications, you'll want to understand the basic, out of the box operation that you are modifying.

Edit: Before you install, I would take off the side panels and inspect the whole guts, take pictures, etc. You might find missing welds, and will probably find some interesting understanding of how the thing works. I also foil taped shut the lasercut "Drolet" logo that was letting a lot of air leak into my basement. It was a pain for me to do it after the ducts were installed.

 

[sloeffle]

2. Is there any maintenance regarding the secondary burn tubes? On some good dry ash late last week, I watched the stove and did not get a good secondary burn. The middle burner was burning the full width, the front did not light off at all, and the rear was flashing flames on and off. I expected a much better secondary burn, and have previously had a much better secondary burn. If I bumped these tubes with a piece of wood, can they become unseated? Or is it more likely that they need cleaned, or that my temperature set points are not ideal?

Don't waste your time cleaning the burn tubes. My Caddy has been running for 5 years and I cleaned them last month. All I got was a little bit of fine ash out of each one.

It would not be that big of a PITA but our friends up north like to bend the cotter pins every which way know to man. It probably took me an hour to do all them but the back one. I didn't want to mess with take the firebrick out.

Scott

 

[Darbycrash]

Here's my install in progress

 

[zmcnutt]

Here's my install in progress

Hey buddy I don't want to pick your install apart but my manual says to have 12 inches of rise out of the furnace before your first elbow. Just pointing it out because I originally planned to run elbows right out of mine just like you did. I guess the elbows right out of the furnace may cause static pressure issues somehow? I'm not sure

 

[Digger79]

Hey buddy I don't want to pick your install apart but my manual says to have 12 inches of rise out of the furnace before your first elbow. Just pointing it out because I originally planned to run elbows right out of mine just like you did. I guess the elbows right out of the furnace may cause static pressure issues somehow? I'm not sure

my guess would be its important for gravity flow use say in the event of a power outage. Liability issues for SBI otherwise possibly.

 

[Digger79]

Hey buddy I don't want to pick your install apart but my manual says to have 12 inches of rise out of the furnace before your first elbow. Just pointing it out because I originally planned to run elbows right out of mine just like you did. I guess the elbows right out of the furnace may cause static pressure issues somehow? I'm not sure

Well that and prob also liability issue for SBI if enough air cannot escape quick enough to draw heat fast enough to avoid damage to a steel stove. The 45's rt out of the plenum will def slow the air flow at the plenum over straight pipe for a few feet first. Personally how ever I kinda like it. seems it would generate better CFM over all in the duct work than using two 90 bends would.

 

[Darbycrash]

Hey buddy I don't want to pick your install apart but my manual says to have 12 inches of rise out of the furnace before your first elbow. Just pointing it out because I originally planned to run elbows right out of mine just like you did. I guess the elbows right out of the furnace may cause static pressure issues somehow? I'm not sure

Good Call, I must have missed this in the manual So far the house heats right up and I have not seen any ill effects due to the 45's. I may consider changing it however since my insurance will want a few pics of the install.

 

[zmcnutt]

Well that and prob also liability issue for SBI if enough air cannot escape quick enough to draw heat fast enough to avoid damage to a steel stove. The 45's rt out of the plenum will def slow the air flow at the plenum over straight pipe for a few feet first. Personally how ever I kinda like it. seems it would generate better CFM over all in the duct work than using two 90 bends would.

That would make sense. I had originally planned to run elbows right off of the furnace would have made life a lot easier for me on my install but o happened to see the clearances.

Good Call, I must have missed this in the manual So far the house heats right up and I have not seen any ill effects due to the 45's. I may consider changing it however since my insurance will want a few pics of the install.

No problem just trying to look out for others. Glad I could contribute I know I have learned a lot from this group.

 

[Erik MN]

Depends upon how interested you are to tinker on it. If that kind of thing is fun for you, then I'd add a temp controller early on. I'd add the front firebrick too, that's not hard. Either way, I think it's fine to start using it straight out of the crate, but I'd just ease into it over several days. Even if you want to do the modifications, you'll want to understand the basic, out of the box operation that you are modifying.

Edit: Before you install, I would take off the side panels and inspect the whole guts, take pictures, etc. You might find missing welds, and will probably find some interesting understanding of how the thing works. I also foil taped shut the lasercut "Drolet" logo that was letting a lot of air leak into my basement. It was a pain for me to do it after the ducts were installed.

Thanks! I appreciate the thoughts and the ideas of taking some "new" pictures of the insides. I emailed SBI today and they have some of the upgrade kits on the way. I was very impressed at the prompt response. I will get those installed and try out the first couple of burns and try to get used to it like you suggested. I do enjoy tinkering with things, so I could definitely see myself adding some of those additional controls. I will have to review previous posts for more specifics on those.

 

[zmcnutt]

Just curious with guys running temp controllers what you have high and low limits set at. I originally set mine up copied from 3fordasho. Seems like my flue temp never gets above 550. Chimney draft is spot on measured with Dwyer. Burning ash seasoned a year and a half

 

[brenndatomu]

Just curious with guys running temp controllers what you have high and low limits set at. I originally set mine up copied from 3fordasho. Seems like my flue temp never gets above 550. Chimney draft is spot on measured with Dwyer. Burning ash seasoned a year and a half

Similar to what found. Setting the controller at 600* was WAY too high for my setup. I kept playing with it, backing it down 50* at a time until it seemed too far...I ended up with mine at 350*...on my sisters Tundra she likes 425*

 

[zmcnutt]

Similar to what found. Setting the controller at 600* was WAY too high for my setup. I kept playing with it, backing it down 50* at a time until it seemed too far...I ended up with mine at 350*...on my sisters Tundra she likes 425*

I suppose it will be something that just takes some fine tuning. I was just a little worried when my flue temps are hardly ever getting up to my high limit. I think I'm set at 550 now I may drop to 500 and see how it goes. Great set up though I really like having the low limit to keep the flue warm

 

[brenndatomu]

I really like having the low limit to keep the flue warm

I quit using the low alarm, I found the tstat does the same thing for me...seems like the load "lasts longer" that way too...I could see using the low alarm to burn down excessive coals build up though (like during a major cold spell)

 

[zmcnutt]

I definitely see how it could cut down on burn times. I was just paranoid about getting creosote build up. Sometimes on really cold days I will run my buck insert upstairs and that will satisfy the tstat for awhile keeping the tundra damper closed.