That looks like that same amount my T2 damper opens, just need to make sure it closes all the way. The + is to see the actual plenum temp. The - appears to go through the setting, tried to figure it out, may be a way to adjust them. If someone knows, please share!
I used a K type.
It has kinda morphed into both...but maybe it is time to do a T2 thread on its own...if nothing else maybe to document all the mods and how they are applied to the T2...you can place a link to your new thread here if you decide to do it.
) What was left could not have weighed more than 325 lbs. I could easily manhandle it off the pallet onto rollers singlehanded. The only thing I needed a helper for really was to get it started down the 2x4 runners I screwed fast to the steps. I pictured it sliding gently down, but failed to notice the downturned lower lip on the front of the unit as well as all the screws poking down. I sort of had to duck-walk it down the 2x4s. From there I used 2 1,000 lb mover dollies. Whole process including reassembly was about 3 hrs.
I agree...I wouldn't pick from that loop either. That not being welded at the back there is one of the changes they've made from the original T1 design...they had all 3 of the HX tubes welded up tight on both ends on the T1's...things couldn't float as the firebox/HX tubes expand/contracted...oops, that's cost them some money!
Finally got the furnace down the basement stairs yesterday. I removed nearly everything that could be removed. (Partly just out of curiosity
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I don't know why they put that loop on top. At first glance it appears like a nifty way to hoist the whole unit. Closer inspection reveals that only the 2 smaller pipes are actually welded to the firebox. The center one is floating at the back. You couldn't pay me to lift my fully assembled heatmax2 in this way. I can't help but think that someone will try it tho.....
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Bottom shot of center tube.
Can you get some close up pics of all around the HX cleanout door...where it comes through the front of the furnace there?
I have it reassembled now so pics won't show much. You are correct about it not being welded. There is a rope gasket on the inside of the air jacket.
When fully assembled the sheet metal on the front and back would probably keep the heat exchanger from moving too much. The owners manual says nothing one way or the other which is strange. Glad it worked for you!
Same here. I moved my Caddy with an engine hoist around my basement using the loop up top also.
Doesn't matter...on the outside, around the box is what I was after. Thanks!
Perfect, exactly what I was trying to see. Yup, quite a few little changes from the T1.
currently keep it around 60 with propane heater. would love to have it 70-75.
Depends how much time I get to work out there, but would have frequent warm ups from a cold state. Could use propane heater to help bring up temp on cold starts. I was thinking same issue for the Tundra but wanted to get real user inputs.
If you use the pro-pain to boost the temp up from ambient then a Tundra might do fine for you...but without help it will take way too long IMO
This. I have a Tundra in a 39x60' quonset style building - much higher than 10' at the peak. Spray foamed wood structure but leaky foundation, un-insulated concrete floor. I keep it just above freezing with propane heat when not in there. The Tundra would take forever to bring temps up so I run the 120k propane unit heater about 15 mn and then the wood pretty much can maintain. I always have 5-10% left in my 125 gallon propane tank at the end of the heating season. (one fill per season). I don't shoot for 70-75f though, usually 65F or so.
70-75 may have been a bit much...68 ish at most. Will have to see how much they are willing to deal on the Tundra. Otherwise i have an old wood furnace i will fix up and run.
