One of the many nice details of restoring a Fisher to original or as near to oem as possible is the fire bricks. CBI group, Abbotsford BC Canada manufactured and supplied refractory bricks one finds in alot of original Fisher stoves. They are far better in quality, from size and uniformity, even psi strength. Bricks are labeled 'Flame Canada' on the face from casting mold. Clayburn no longer manufactures thier own refractory bricks, rather they 'import' from another source unfortunately. The originals sit so nice and flat not only creating a nice floor, but the side walls are tighter as flat as well. The new style fire bricks are VERY irregualr, in every way. ....either they are cupped up and can rock and break and have lips to catch your ash shovel, or air gap under which can also break when any log...especially heavy hardwoods are tossed on them. Pic shows flat and nice original style brick. Other pics show the warp, coins placed for illustration. what seems to work for me, may not work for another though, said with consideration.
Nice Pic Coaly, reminded me of some abused stoves Ive seen!
Raypa, you did awesome on bringing back that stove! Things like baffles and screens in my experiance and with as many that have sold....wont affect your price. If it has accessories and options already, refer to them and it can help the sale though. Stove Bright can be kind of pricey, if you have a resale # you may obtain it for as little as $4-$5 dollars a can....baught by the case. SB's primer will cause one to use less finish material and causes final (yours was Satin) to be real nice. I personally do not heat the cans that are #6309 Metallic Black anymore, seems to cause the nozzle to clog..............no matter how much the the can is shaken, room temp works for me. Just had a man who wanted a baby bear, he called not even one hour later, had it up and going curing with front door open a bit due to the 'off gas' or odor it can give off. That Grandpa Bear looks sweet, I like the doors with the integral pins like that!! Just had one here as well, original owner was optometrist, that screen you see up a bit in one of my postings with the single handle and arrow on the handle....is original and correct to mine. Few different screens I see with different models of the early stoves like yours. You'll find some differences in stoves, screens, legs ect due to what the store front had or sent out, or possibly was ordered by the costomer
I appreciate the board and these postings on Fishers, been helpful to me. I thought it be neat to show some pics of a grandma III that only recieved a rough and quick dolling up. It has original nickel doors, baffle ect. I didnt replate the doors on this one, like some others I enjoy working with. This stove didnt get media cleaned either. The baby bear on pg 2 tickbitty refered to is gold paint highlighted on tree's I did, but throughout the board here you see what nickel plating Ive done and others stoves, lower there on pg 2 and different pgs show how classy it can be. This stove has 4hrs into it in total probably. Its going to be used alot and for primary heat, not a show piece. Pics kinda show a little here and there, Im definately good with a camera or the computer... If it helps somebody at all, here is how I approached this one. All work on stoves should be done with a proper respirator. Remove fire bricks and shop vac. Sanded outside with 100 grit, followed by 180 lightly. Compressed air to clean off, wipe with terry cloth. put halogen light inside to warm stove (winter), light coat of stove brights #6309 metallic black. Doors disassembled were cleaned with warm soap and water. I throw the doors in a simple shop oven and bring them to 300 degree's. This drys the cast iron fast and thouroughly, even most residue and oils are cleaned off. Air draft knobs were lightly buffed on parameters. Nickel is hit with flitz polish and wax...non abrasive as to not damage thinner original nickel. The nickel gets a careful wipe of soybean oil so painting the doors wipe off is a breeze. While doors dry, I hit the stove one more time for a finished coat. Bricks were then carefully installed and 4 cuts made to finish them up (I used new style bricks on this one). Springs back on doors. This is a quick over view on this particular stove.
Heres the more of the process. Its no perfect restoration or time involved stove, none the less, its clean for use and look nice in a home. Its fun and enjoyable, you get to see the transformation bringing a stove back from years of use, then you as well can enjoy a good looking stove and the great heat.
Heres the Grandma III ready for service, screen as well. This stove has the neat pillar cast iron bolt on legs too. The board is neat with all the generations of Fisher stoves, made in U.S.A, classy stoves with excellent performance, thought of and built by an innovative guy!!
Mama Bear, grandma and grandpa headed out to new homes today. Guy named Rich is also looking into a papa bear. Grandpa with baro on rear, square doored, nickeled ball feet (rest) adjustable. Square doored mama bear with bear paws.
is this a fisher or some type of clone?
Hey Mo Par thats a neat grandma bear you have. The set up for baffle you built is alot like a more modern Lopi, Im sure it works great, especially with the fire brick. Mo Par I remember leaving my ss 396 69 Chevelle home one friday night and took out my dads 67 plymouth gtx on the boulevard, street raced it twice that night, didnt lose either..lol. That square doored stove is one of my favorites, in pic you can see smoke swirl outward before it trys to exit. Nice
I guess i should have at least swept it off before I took the pic. It' needs another polish too. It does a great job but if the temp outside get above 45 degrees I let it burn down or else it'll run me out of the house.
Woo Hoo ! Grandson says I've totally lost it;
It was worth the weeks wait down to the last 30 seconds to win this LIKE NEW Canadian Ganz Teddy Bear ! (Given away with Teddy Bear stoves at a dealer in Vineland Ontario called "House By The School") http://www.housebytheschool.ca/
Working on early Papa Bear that just came in. Great original condition, has bricks lined on floor and sides, bricks aboves first side row of bricks as well...and it is original factory, will get pics soon. Lots of great stoves out there to be picked up, looking and hunting is just as fun as making them as new!. Last Grandpa had original baro on back, sweet stove.
Greetings to all.
Let me first say many thanks to Coaly and the other contributors in this thread. Its a great resource.
I'm new to the forum, and also a new owner of a Fisher fireplace insert that was installed in a home that we just bought in Fallbrook, Ca. The home was built in 1979.
I read this thread with much interest trying to glean what I could in regard to this insert. The wife and I love it, but, don't know much about it.
In working with the insert, it seems that the flue damper is just loose in place, hanging wide open (I assume). As part of the steel surround around the insert, on the right side, is what appears to be similar to a keyhole, and I'm curious if this was some sort of slot for a damper controller, a chain or mechanism? Its just below the horizontal level plane of the top plate. Its a round hole at the top, with a slot below it, connected to the hole; quite similar to the classic skeleton keyhole in its appearance - but there is nothing in it (that I can see outwardly), just an empty slot.
*[strike]Another question: Does anyone have a copy of a manual for this insert that has been digitized into a .pdf format or other format? If so, might I beg a copy??[/strike]
I'd love to post a picture of it. Its in quite good condition - but having recently moved here, my camera has turned up missing in the boxes. So, I will as soon as I can find it.
again, many thanks for the great information in this thread!
Forum newb mistake; I found the .pdf download of the manual.
Should be a flat 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 18" piece of flat bar stock with a spring that matches your doors on the outside end and a hole punched thru it on the far end that connects to the flue.... The bar should be notched on the bottom so you can lock in the flue to the position you want it..
If you are missing this piece, PM me & I will send this to you. We have an extra one of these damper control bars from our other fisher insert that was sold off years ago to be used as a free standing unit in a shop. The spring handle is missing though