First cut with non saftey chain..........

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

Jake

Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 11, 2005
230
nw burbs of Chi
Its a whole new ball game. I got a loop of stihl rm for my 026 (never cut with it. )

I've used a 021 for years and most recently a ms390 (both with sagtey chain)

What a difference!!
 
I know, goose and eric and about 90% of the AS posters are strong for non safety chain. I am an advocate of safety chain for homeowner users, and use it myself maybe half situations. From what I have seen and tested, the difference is there but maybe 10-20%. Tooth design makes a much larger difference, especially in softwood, which I very rarely see around here. Many AS are softwood loggers, who need boring ability also. Makes perfect sense, just isn't the world I work in.

Not bashing the choice, lets not start the safety debate again, but my point for this post is more to illustrate 'diagnostic' or 'testing' practice. If I understand correctly, the comparison is not on the same saw, same bar, same tooth design. I may have misinterpreted post, but sounded like the first time the 026 was run also. I've not used an 021, but have many years with the 026's, and comparing a 35cc with high speed 50 cc limber is way different animal. Was the new chain more squared chisel than the old? Was the old chain fresh ground or worn? Just a fresh chain out of the box would make a big difference in cutting. Too many variables to make conclusions. If doing comparisons of chain, bar, oil, fuel mix, saw brands, etc etc as many variables as possible need to be eliminated.

Part of my job is lot of phone support of big ( 5000 hp) railroad maintenance machinery, and it is very tough to diagnose or make valid conclusions when there were many changes or variables.

So that's my main reason for writing this. Not S/NS, and again you may come to same conclusion, but I think it would be interesting to have back to back with chain change only, and the same tooth design. Multiple cuts in same log at same day, etc. etc. Just a good habit and mindset to get into.

k
 
I think it really depends on the type of safety chain. I've used both Oregon 73LG ("pro") and 73VX (low kickback) on the same saw, and they cut the same as best I can tell. Oregon claims that the 73VX is equal to or better than it's own equivalent non-kickback chain. The VX doesn't have those bumper links between teeth like some, just a different raker design, so that might be the difference. Also, both are full-chisel, so it's a fair comparison there.
 
the 021 usually has a sharp chain, and the 390 wears a sharp one as well.

here's whats on the 021 OILOMATIC® STIHL PICCO™ Micro™ Comfort 3 (PMC3
 
I think most chain these days is pretty safe, at least compared to 20 or 30 years ago. The main reason for using chipper (the old "safety") chain is that the cutting edge is rounded and therefore less prone to getting dull if dinged. I'm not even sure you can buy chipper chain anymore, but I used to use it when cutting log-length firewood, since it is typically dragged through the woods with a skidder, and therefore contains rocks and dirt in the bark. You get more mileage out of chipper chain under those conditions, than you would with full chisel.

If you're skilled enough to keep your chain out of the dirt, then full chisel is faster and perfectly safe, IMO. If not, then use something less prone to dulling. It may seem counterintuitive, but trying to cut with a dull chain is a lot more dangerous than cutting with a sharp one.
 
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/16727/


all have depth gauges/rakers, it controls the depth of cut. without rakers it would nose dive into the wood and stall.
Reeuced kickback/safety chains have a bumper part that swings out when bending around the bar tip to reduce snagging on the space between cutters.
Snagging on top or bottom of bar creates pullin or pushback, but snagging at end of bar is kicking bar upward, mild or violently.
 
If you're skilled enough to keep your chain out of the dirt, then full chisel is faster and perfectly safe, IMO.

Gotta gotta gotta keep chisel chain away from the dirt. Even just kissing the dirt will wipe some corners.

Also, I use both a stock stihl chisel chain on my 046 and one where i've filed the rakers and i've cut a lot of wood with both...the only time i've had "kickback" is if I get the nose of the bar into the wood (i'm sure either type chain would give the same result).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.