Fisher fireplace insert with flue collar—Help with liner connection

[JesseP]

Hello!

New member here. We just bought a house that came with a Fisher fireplace insert installed but it was pointed out during our inspection that it needed a liner (there was 2” of creosote built up in the chimney!).

I pulled it out and spent hours cleaning the firebox and flue (2’ of creosote balls piled up on fireplace floor!).

Spent many hours researching how to reinstall this thing so it is safe to operate, and more efficient than original. I’m stuck on one point though—how to install the liner to the top of the stove. I can’t seem to find another Fisher anywhere that had a collar on the top of the outlet. The collar measures 8” OD and 7.875” ID. I will be installing a 7” insulated SS liner and need to find a way to connect it to stove.

I have searched and bought a few reducers but they do not work. Either the male end is too large to fit inside the heavy steel collar, and the female ones all have a male 7” top. I’ve looked into the boots, but the angle of the boot will not clear the 1” tall collar that protrudes up the top. Also, I only have about 5” of clearance from the top of the insert and the lintel, limiting the coupling height.

Any suggestions out there, and can anyone confirm that this steel band/collar came factory installed on this insert?

Some pics are attached. As for other installation details, I will be installing:

-block off plate
-steel baffle
-ss insulated 7” liner

Thank you all for the info gleaned this far—this site is amazing and has fed another newly found addiction!

Jesse

 

[coaly]

Most are flat on top without the outlet pipe sticking out at all. This doesn't look like a full size insert. There was a Cub, and Panda. Full size has a damper rod all the way across with brackets at each side.
That collar looks high enough to notch an adapter that fits inside for connection to liner.

Another keyword you're looking for is a "boot". They work good if you need it angled right off the stove.
Using the search feature in this Forum you should find plenty of info and pics. I think that collar is low enough to put a boot over and bolt to the top. Normally drill and tap the outer air jacket.

They come in cast iron, steel, and stainless. Notch for damper rod as necessary keeping it as tight to rod as possible. I would use a male inside adapter if you don't need it angled right off the top.

 

[coaly]

When you get up and running, you'll need this thread;

Made a Blower for My Fisher Insert

I just finished this so I haven't tried it yet. I was trying to think of a way to hide the ugly blower and while walking around Tractor Supply I spoted the mailboxes. Bent some sheet up for the duct. Its a Hack Job but I think it will work. Now I need a piece of 5/16 plate for a baffle.

www.hearth.com

Welcome to the Forum!

 

[bholler]

I always just use a standard 8" stainless appliance adapter notched around the damper rod. You may need to over crimp it to get it to fit in the collar but it should work

 

[JesseP]

Thanks all!! I need the adapter because I am running a 7” liner rather than an 8. I tried cutting slits in the adapter so it would fit in the collar but it looked rather bad, bulbous, and lots of leaks. Would it be a bad thing to just pack the reducer male end with furnace cement and just smash it in there? I’d prefer a nice snug metal-to-metal mating surface but it’s beginning to look like that is not an option.

As for the boots—I couldn’t find one that was deep enough to clear the lip. I’m sure if I bought a steel one I could bend or warp it to clear the lip but at +$150 it’s an expensive gamble.

Let me know your thoughts on the integrity of using heavy furnace cement to seal the reducer to the stove outlet.

And yes, a blower is next on the list. Hopefully I can figure that one out using cut up ducts and rivets as I do not have easy access to a welder/fabricator.

 

[bholler]

Thanks all!! I need the adapter because I am running a 7” liner rather than an 8. I tried cutting slits in the adapter so it would fit in the collar but it looked rather bad, bulbous, and lots of leaks. Would it be a bad thing to just pack the reducer male end with furnace cement and just smash it in there? I’d prefer a nice snug metal-to-metal mating surface but it’s beginning to look like that is not an option.

As for the boots—I couldn’t find one that was deep enough to clear the lip. I’m sure if I bought a steel one I could bend or warp it to clear the lip but at +$150 it’s an expensive gamble.

Let me know your thoughts on the integrity of using heavy furnace cement to seal the reducer to the stove outlet.

And yes, a blower is next on the list. Hopefully I can figure that one out using cut up ducts and rivets as I do not have easy access to a welder/fabricator.

Furnace cement will not work to fill that gap

 

[coaly]

I slip wrecked pipe and adapters over a 2 x 4 and beat back into shape. Hand crimpers around and around to form it down smaller. Grinder to carefully notch? Patience and gloves !