I am looking for a replacement leg for my Fisher Grandpa III. It has the bear leg. Any recommendations on where to look for the replacement? Thanks much.
Fisher Grandpa III Bear Leg Replacement
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Thanks Coaly! Part of the rear right paw is missing when I purchased the stove. On another topic, do you know how I could get a copy or pdf of the book The Fisher Stove Story. The link on this forum doesn't work. Thanks much for your help.
Here is the broke leg. I actually called the person I purchased the stove from and he found the broken piece and is going to send it to me. What would you suggest I use to "glue" it back together? I also have a picture of a good leg (little snow on it).
My heat plate on the stove is bent. Possibly heat warped? Would you suggest that I replace it? Do I pound this plate out or is it tack welded in? Or just leave it as it is?
Thanks for sending me the pdf's.
Did you use to work for Fisher or have you been just a collector for many years? I really appreciate your help.
Terry
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![[Hearth.com] Fisher Grandpa III Bear Leg Replacement](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/317/317910-b5e181b0e3c46342828b2dfd2c851b32.jpg?hash=GIwc7RSj00 "[Hearth.com] Fisher Grandpa III Bear Leg Replacement")
![[Hearth.com] Fisher Grandpa III Bear Leg Replacement](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/317/317911-c16d950d3dc4b8c1c011983efaca9309.jpg?hash=RrLmKSFuMy "[Hearth.com] Fisher Grandpa III Bear Leg Replacement")
My heat plate on the stove is bent. Possibly heat warped? Would you suggest that I replace it? Do I pound this plate out or is it tack welded in? Or just leave it as it is?
Thanks for sending me the pdf's.
Did you use to work for Fisher or have you been just a collector for many years? I really appreciate your help.
Terry
JB Weld.
It is a 2 part epoxy. Black and white that makes a gray paste. It dries like metal, can be drilled or machined like metal when cured.
The baffle should just set on angle iron supports, removes easily.
Sledge hammer, hearing protection, beat flat.
I did not work at a Fisher fabricator, but retired from the heating business and collected the different models, upgrading the collection to new, unfired when possible.
I bought the remaining parts from the Colorado fabricator years ago, and the son in law of the largest fabricator from Georgia found this Forum and was able to send me full size drawings, some internal correspondence, and add greatly to the Forum.
It is a 2 part epoxy. Black and white that makes a gray paste. It dries like metal, can be drilled or machined like metal when cured.
The baffle should just set on angle iron supports, removes easily.
Sledge hammer, hearing protection, beat flat.
I did not work at a Fisher fabricator, but retired from the heating business and collected the different models, upgrading the collection to new, unfired when possible.
I bought the remaining parts from the Colorado fabricator years ago, and the son in law of the largest fabricator from Georgia found this Forum and was able to send me full size drawings, some internal correspondence, and add greatly to the Forum.
Coaly---Thanks for that Fisher story and I am on Chapter two right now and took copies of it to finish out the reading---appreciate...Those were quite the days and I am finding out that there is a lot in common in my life with the fishers including the names and of course I love the stoves.. Thanks...clancey
Coaly, I was wondering if it is a problem to use 6" stove pipe (reducer from 8" to 6") on my Grandpa III stove? I don't plan to have big fires in the stove. I have access to 6" insulated pipe for a very reasonable price.
Prohibited by NFPA-211 and Codes to reduce smaller than cross sectional diameter of stove outlet.
That said, many still do. It depends on pipe configuration and chimney. An indoor straight up through roof is best. A horizontal run through wall and exterior chimney, I would expect smoke roll in issues.
I actually find stoves like these work best on 7" it increases the velocity in the chimney which seems to help reduce buildup.
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