fisher info needed

[florence barnes]

I just purchased a fisher insert the model number on the inside door is 593 gmr . I want to restove it to its orginial look. any info, pics or parts info this insert would be helpful.

 

[coaly]

Welcome to the forum;
There are no model numbers of Fisher Stoves. Door markings are foundry marks on the cast iron doors. If the gmr is more like GM/R that would be Grandma Right. Should be GM/L on the Left. The model that used those doors is called "Fisher Fireplace Insert", and uses Grandma freestanding stove doors. Let us know if the doors are nickel plated (silver highlights) or just black, and I'll post some pictures of what it's supposed to look like.

 

[florence barnes]

It is a GMR insert that I can tell it has a 8in flue opening at the top and a cruved back . The doors have raised fischer letters and three trees the doors were painted silver. I wish it was chromed. I am going to have the doors sandblasted should I paint them black or use chrome paint? chroming is expensive right?
Please send pics and any info that may help me this is my first fireplace insert. Do I need a chimney liner I am placing it in a exterior wall brick fireplace any info would be helpful.

Thanks

 

[coaly]

OK, it's a "Fisher Fireplace Insert". That's the model name, and the spelling is Bob FISHER's last name, spelled like it is on the door. The doors you'e referring to are nickel plated, not chrome. You would have to check around locally at platers or foundries that do plating for prices. What's expensive to some is doable to others. Since Inserts are very common, an dcan be found for 100 or 200 when you buy them right, it may only be worth making it nice i fyou get it for nothing and don't mind putting $300 into it. To keep it original, it would be entirely painted Satin Black.
The reason the doors are marked GM is they are the same size doors used on the Grandma Bear.

They were made to slide into the firplace opening, and that is the reason for the angle back, since many fireplaces were angled across the back. If you slide it in as is, (sometimes called a slammer installation because it's quick) you must seal the faceplate to the fireplace front so ALL the air going up the chimney is pulled through the stove. Any air leak around the faceplate reduces draft and allows cool inside air up the chimney to cool the chimney inside reducing the draft. Draft is what pulls oxygen through the fire to make it go.
Installing a liner also makes it easier cleaning the chimney. Without one, you need to slide the entire Insert out to clean what falls out while brushing the flue from the top. Connected to a flexible liner (to allow it to be connected and slid in only once) all the creosote removed falls into the insert. Much easier, and the liner would be 8 inch all the way. This is less heat you need to lose up the chimney. If you have a large flue now, it takes much more heat to be left up it (damper open farther) to get the same draft as the smaller liner. The exterior chimney is already going to be colder than a chimney inside the home where it should be, so an insulated liner is going to help even more.

Here's one with high lighting done with paint;


And a nickel plated original;


Notice the blower uses the slot under it to push hot air out opening on the top. The blower doesn't move any of the air behind it where it's sealed to the fireplace, so it's clean air and makes a huge difference in heat output.

Here's a link to the original owners manual. It's a good manual that should answer any other questions. https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/File:fishinsertmanual.pdf/