Fisher insert stoves
- Thread starter Kain
- Start date
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I think OP is asking who makes the largest Insert?
@Kain Are you looking for new or used?
First size the appliance for the square footage being heated in your heating zone.
The Insert or stove is also sized to the chimney.
A larger fireplace opening can be closed off with a faceplate if the opening is too large for the correct size Insert. Don’t buy an insert to fit the fireplace, buy it for the correct heat output.
Next decide on stove type. Older or newer EPA Certified that burns nearly smokeless and much more efficient. They are; Secondary burn or catalytic types.
The secondary burn type won’t close down as far, so it has more heat output on low for a shorter duration than catalytic. Secondary burn type has more visible flame on lower setting.
Catalytic types burn smoke hotter in a much smaller area than the entire firebox, so have overall lower output turned down low, but continue to burn clean. Where you are you may not need medium to high output constantly, so catalytic is the output you may need.
The only benefits from older stoves is they are more forgiving using less than optimum fuel, and many have a radiant front that sticks out of the fireplace with a cooktop. They eat wood, so should only be installed when rarely used, not as a primary heat source, or when installed for emergency heating and cooking only.
When we know if you’re looking specifically for a Fisher, this is the Forum for answers. If you’re looking for an older Insert, we can move this thread to the Classic Forum for more views. If you’re looking for a newer EPA Insert, we can move this thread over to The Hearth Room where the high tech burners can answer more questions on the newfangled types than I need to know.
@Kain Are you looking for new or used?
First size the appliance for the square footage being heated in your heating zone.
The Insert or stove is also sized to the chimney.
A larger fireplace opening can be closed off with a faceplate if the opening is too large for the correct size Insert. Don’t buy an insert to fit the fireplace, buy it for the correct heat output.
Next decide on stove type. Older or newer EPA Certified that burns nearly smokeless and much more efficient. They are; Secondary burn or catalytic types.
The secondary burn type won’t close down as far, so it has more heat output on low for a shorter duration than catalytic. Secondary burn type has more visible flame on lower setting.
Catalytic types burn smoke hotter in a much smaller area than the entire firebox, so have overall lower output turned down low, but continue to burn clean. Where you are you may not need medium to high output constantly, so catalytic is the output you may need.
The only benefits from older stoves is they are more forgiving using less than optimum fuel, and many have a radiant front that sticks out of the fireplace with a cooktop. They eat wood, so should only be installed when rarely used, not as a primary heat source, or when installed for emergency heating and cooking only.
When we know if you’re looking specifically for a Fisher, this is the Forum for answers. If you’re looking for an older Insert, we can move this thread to the Classic Forum for more views. If you’re looking for a newer EPA Insert, we can move this thread over to The Hearth Room where the high tech burners can answer more questions on the newfangled types than I need to know.
That is one of the normal ones which are huge honestly What space is it going to be heating? Can you fit an 8" insulated liner through the chimney to hook it up properly?
We are asking about size because if the insert is oversized (especially in a mild climate) you will never be able to get it up to proper operating temperatures and you will have a creosote factory.
What type of fireplace is it? I am concerned it is a prefab fireplace because you said pipe.
So is it a masonry structure with clay liners or is it a metal box with a metal chimney?
Pictures would help
Ok that is a prefab fireplace and absolutely cannot have a Fisher insert put in it. I really doubt it would fit anyway. If you give us the make and model fireplace it's possible a more modern insert that is approved for use in a prefab could be an option.
Damn it Not good news
It’s 38 W
34 T
And 18 D before removing the fireplace.
So is it because of the heat from the insert puts out that it won’t withstand?
Our modular house is a 2009 model
It’s 38 W
34 T
And 18 D before removing the fireplace.
So is it because of the heat from the insert puts out that it won’t withstand?
Our modular house is a 2009 model
What is the make and model of the ZC fireplace? If you don't know, look around the door frame for a metal tag identifying the manufacturer and fireplace model.
Inserts require a masonry fireplace. Manufactured fireplaces use shields and air spaces to remove heat by convection from nearby building materials. They are tested and approved using only the prefab chimney they pass UL testing with. So each fireplace will have a list of approved low temperature chimneys that can be used with it.
Chimney for an Insert or stove is Class A high temperature rated chimney pipe tested to UL 103 HT. The difference is because fireplaces are designed to allow much more air to the fire for free burning, and lose tons of heat up the chimney. This prevents creosote formation. When you install an Insert, it is a air controlled appliance that can be closed down depriving fire of oxygen. This forms creosote in chimney, so must be designed and tested to survive a chimney fire. The chimney required for an Insert is tested at 1000*f continuous, and 3 chimney fires of 10 minute duration at 2100*f.
This fireplace with the correct chimney could support a Fisher Polar Bear made for this installation. But finding a Polar Bear in Texas is like,…. well finding a Polar Bear in Texas!
You can't remove the fireplace an insert needs to be inserted into an appropriate fireplace.
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