Fisher Installation

[HollyP]

Hello,

I've been following the forms trying to get some information about a Fisher Stove I recently acquired, but they are honestly a little over my head. If anyone can help break it down for me, it would be greatly appreciated. Attached is a picture of the stove. I'm not sure how old it is, since there are no stars on it. I recently had someone come out to look at installing it. They tried to tell me there was no way to put the stove less than 36 inches from the wall and then tried to talk me into buying a new stove. I will buy a new stove (from someone else who is not trying to con me) if that would be the most reasonable thing to do, but I've seen a lot of people who are fans of the classics, and it has kind of grown on me. Here is what I am trying to figure out:

1. Am I going to have any problems with EPA laws? I can't find anything in NC preventing me from having an unlisted stove.
2. Where can I buy a decent looking heat shield? Everything I've seen that is pre-made doesn't work for unlisted stoves. I'm not opposed to building one, but I'm not sure what millboard is or where I would buy it. I would really like to have my stove 12 inches from the wall. I can do 18 inches, but prefer 12.
3. How difficult is it to install a chimney stove on your own? Is it better to go out a back wall or straight through the roof?

I'm sure I will have a million more questions, but these are the ones that kind of help me figure out whether it is even worth trying to move forward with the stove or whether I should just sell it and get a new one.

Thanks.

 

[coaly]

Welcome to the forum;
The doors pictured are Grandma, also used on the full size Insert. A picture of stove box is needed to identify the rest. Probably built in the range between '77 to '80.

1.) You're legal there.

2.) Millboard is no longer made. It was asbestos, a cancer causing material when air borne. The R value or resistance to allow heat flow gets complicated taking into account masonry materials ability to absorb and transfer heat as well. These are conductive factors that are considered when building your own heat shield. Codes are laws that are written from testing that has been done by National Fire Protection Association. They write "standards" that local governments or agencies adopt in their codes. That means they use the standards that have already been tested and proved to work. That would be NFPA 211 for solid fuel burning appliances and chimneys. That is the national standard the US goes by. So installing your own must comply with it. Unfortunately that's as simple as I can put it.

As far as anyone telling you "you can't put it closer than 36" to a wall" , that is false. The NFPA 211 Standard has a section for unlisted appliances considered "generic clearance" and is where the 36" comes from. What they failed to consider is the section in the code that allows REDUCED CLEARANCE by heat shield which gives their construction in the standard. (or states UL approved heat shield) Using the search box at the top of the page will find many threads on the subject.

Not sure why you state "everything pre-made doesn't work for unlisted stoves".
Stove Boards (keyword) are UL listed. That means a testing facility tests products for safety and they pass a test that gives what they are capable of. They are for any heat producing appliance that has been tested or not. (unlisted) If you have an Ace Hardware nearby, many stock stove boards in various sizes. Searching their site online should show black, stone or brick look. Once we know what stove you have, we can direct you to the manual giving the size you will need and floor protection size if not sitting on a cement basement floor.

3.) If you can follow the instructions that come with chimney, it's not terribly difficult. If you are you capable of cutting a hole through your roof and making it leak proof, you can probably do it. No one can tell anyone's capability or their understanding of instructions. If you're not sure, have someone do it for you.

Straight up through roof is better for many reasons. This depends on the construction of the building and if possible to do so. You normally only go through a wall with elbows, through the roof overhang, and up outdoors with many more expensive chimney sections when you absolutely have to. The object is to keep the inside of chimney hot. Above 250* f. This is easier inside the building since an exposed outside chimney is going to cool itself and accumulate more creosote from running too cool. The chimney is much more important than the stove. You already chose a stove that requires an 8 inch chimney. What were the reasons for choosing this model? How much area are you trying to heat? Is viewing the fire important ?
Pictures of where you want to put it and what the floor and walls are will help get you the info you need for installation materials.

 

[HollyP]

Thank you for getting back to me. I'm attaching some additional pictures of the stove and where I want it to go. I would like to put the wood stove in the corner (so the center of the back of the stove is pointed directly at the corner). The wall with the window on it is just over 47 inches from the wall to the window. The other wall is over 7 feet long. The whole house is 2400 sq. ft., but the open area I am trying to heat is around1200- 1500 square feet (the rest of the house is closed off).I would like to see the fire. I have a screen attachment for the front of the stove.

I may have misread the information on the stove boards. I thought there was some statement about the clearance reductions being for certain listed stoves.

Unfortunately, there is no good reason why I bought this particular stove. I was in the process of buying a new one when someone I know saw this one for much less on Craigslist and recommended it. At the time I didn’t know what I was getting into.

My fiance will be installing the stove – he’s pretty handy and can probably handle installing the chimney. He’s just not so good with the research part.

Let me know if there is anything else you need.

 

[coaly]

OK, good choice in stoves then. These are more forgiving of poor wood use, but will also use more than a newer EPA stove. If you're buying wood and that's a factor, you may want a newer type that will go through less, and will require a 6 inch chimney. That's why I bring this up first. If your intention is to replace with a newer stove at a later date, you may want to install a 6 inch chimney now. (newer stoves require 6 or line it with 6 inch liner. Not cheap) If this will be inspected, codes do not allow reduction in size of stove outlet. It will work fine reduced to 6, and many are, but technically not legal to do so. (A Mama Bear would be the answer to using a 6 inch chimney, with same heat output, but lack the ability to view fire with open door burning) 8 inch chimney with more wood consumption is the price you pay for a "Fireplace" model.

You're going to want to replace the rear bricks at least inside the stove.

The wall shield material needs to be a non combustible such as cement board with brick or tile. The main thing is that it is raised off the floor, like sitting on bricks and at least 1 inch air space behind shield. The cement board is mounted to wall with non combustible standoffs like spacers behind it and screwed to studs. This air space allows circulation and heated air behind it to rise and keeps the wall cool to cold behind it. The connecting pipe going out will be your determining factor since single wall pipe has a clearance needed of 18" to wall without protector. You can extend shield up wall for reduced clearance, or use double wall connector pipe for reduced clearance. This installation would have been easier with a top vented stove. You will also need a damper in the first section of pipe.

The minimum pad size under your stove for floor protection is shown on page 8;



The entire manual can be found in the Hearth Wiki section under Fisher Stoves.
Of course you can cover the floor back to the walls with cement board and brick making the hearth the entire corner. This gives the minimum size with no wall protector.
The sidewall clearance can be reduced by 66% when using the approved heat shield construction method.
Here's a page that explains it well;
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/stove_wall_clear