Fresh Air Intake Pipe

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Otterby

New Member
Jan 26, 2020
1
Casper, WY
I want to plumb my fresh air intake to draw in outside air. The connection on the stove is 1-5/8 but the only kits I see for sale have 2” pipe? The pipe is the expandable dryer vent type pipe so I’m wondering if it will clamp onto the 1-5/8 outlet ok?
 
It should go around the outside of your intake pipe just fine, then clamp on fine too.
 
just remember that the intake end of the supply line needs to be below the intake level at the stove .
 
It is common and I would think it is so you are pulling in fresh air because hot exhaust rises. If the intake is above (and near) the exhaust then it could be pulling in diluted air.
 
My intake is a 2" pipe on stove. I figured out where I wanted to draw from away and way below from the flue exit, went to a muffler shop and had a piece of 2" pipe bent to my specs, secured screen over one end and hooked other end to stove in house with a piece of old radiator hose that was 2" ID using clamps.
 
It is common and I would think it is so you are pulling in fresh air because hot exhaust rises. If the intake is above (and near) the exhaust then it could be pulling in diluted air.

Tic1976 reread the comment we would like to know why the fresh air intake has to be lower than the stove intake
I think everyone will agree with you on the exhaust
 
Tic1976 reread the comment we would like to know why the fresh air intake has to be lower than the stove intake
I think everyone will agree with you on the exhaust


So would I. Mine has been higher and has been that way for 20 years now. Never been an issue.
 
just remember that the intake end of the supply line needs to be below the intake level at the stove .
Totally FALSE! Many insert set ups will run the OA to the top of the chimney. In fact, Duravent makes a cap (called the prairie cap) that attaches both the exhaust and the fresh air pipes. The fresh air intake is on the lower “shelf” and the exhaust is on the top.
 

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Whew, that is expensive...... _g
 
Tic1976 reread the comment we would like to know why the fresh air intake has to be lower than the stove intake
I think everyone will agree with you on the exhaust
Good point I missed that. All I can think of is if you get water in it it will run out instead if going into the stove. Even though the end should be guarded from water. And I’ve been running mine with the outlet higher than the stove because that’s the only practical way to do it. And never an issue. And I do have a rain hood on it.
 
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I attached mine to the intake on the stove with 2 inch dryer type aluminum piping and then through the wall with 2" PVC. On the outside I have a cap that has a screen on it and also protect it from any water/snow getting it it. The piping for fresh air is level and 12" below the exhaust piping. Been that way for the last 25 years and two different pellet stoves and always worked good.

Bob
 
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With natural draft woodstoves you certainly want the intake below the firebox just so that the fire won't mistake the intake for the exhaust and flow backwards. Forced exhaust on a pellet roaster, not so important.
 
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With natural draft woodstoves you certainly want the intake below the firebox just so that the fire won't mistake the intake for the exhaust and flow backwards. Forced exhaust on a pellet roaster, not so important.


That could be real bad......==c
 
Having the OAK below stove level certainly wouldn't work for basement installs ;)
 
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Ah......... No..._g
 
Having the OAK below stove level certainly wouldn't work for basement installs ;)
For some/most maybe.. mine works fine since it goes to the ash cleanout of the chimney and it is in fact below the stove intake. . still, i wonder why that member posted that "reminder" and why he never came back to clarify it.
 
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Any solid fuel appliance needs 4 things to produce btu's consistently. Fuel, combustion
air, draft and maintenance.