Anybody have an insert and switched to free standing but vented it up the chimney? I would love to see pics of what you did to close in the hole. I'm guessing it would need to be accessible if you choose to vent up the chimney?
from insert to free standing
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I had an insert that I replaced with a freestanding. The insert was an older model I hated cleaning because it would not come out the hole without removing the flex liner pipe. It was a couple hour job to peel the foil tape off left handed and practically blind while laying on my side, with the hearth jabbing me in the ribs. I had to pop the clean out cap of with the stove in the hole, vac out the exhaust and stove before the pressure switch would let it run again. Then repeat every 3-4 weeks till spring. :sick:
I chose to knock off the hearth protrusion to allow the new freestanding stove to sit closer to the wall.
No before shot, too eager to get going.
Here's one during:
http://members.shaw.ca/chuckufarley96/DCP_1733c.jpg
The pattern of the previously hidden bricks didn't match! I salvaged enough to redo the bottom four rows and managed to get an exact match on the colored mortar.
After:
http://members.shaw.ca/chuckufarley96/DCP_1741c.jpg
Then I made a custom close off plate from 16 ga. steel. The edges are rolled back 1/4" for strength and looks. It splits down the middle for access to the cleanout tee behind. The split is a tongue and groove type joint to keep things lined up. It's painted with black hammerite paint and mounted with some 3/4" rare earth magnets for easy removal.
http://members.shaw.ca/chuckufarley96/DCP_1742c.jpg
Exhaust switches from rigid to 4" flex after the cleanout tee and then up two stories through the existing flue.
BTW the Harman Advance goes all season without needing an exhaust pipe cleaning. :coolsmile: At least the yearly cleaning is a breeze now.
I chose to knock off the hearth protrusion to allow the new freestanding stove to sit closer to the wall.
No before shot, too eager to get going.
Here's one during:
http://members.shaw.ca/chuckufarley96/DCP_1733c.jpg
The pattern of the previously hidden bricks didn't match! I salvaged enough to redo the bottom four rows and managed to get an exact match on the colored mortar.
After:
http://members.shaw.ca/chuckufarley96/DCP_1741c.jpg
Then I made a custom close off plate from 16 ga. steel. The edges are rolled back 1/4" for strength and looks. It splits down the middle for access to the cleanout tee behind. The split is a tongue and groove type joint to keep things lined up. It's painted with black hammerite paint and mounted with some 3/4" rare earth magnets for easy removal.
http://members.shaw.ca/chuckufarley96/DCP_1742c.jpg
Exhaust switches from rigid to 4" flex after the cleanout tee and then up two stories through the existing flue.
BTW the Harman Advance goes all season without needing an exhaust pipe cleaning. :coolsmile: At least the yearly cleaning is a breeze now.
Sculptor and Charles U Farley,
I did not convert from an insert to a freestanding, but went with a freestanding in front of the fireplace opening ( to avoid the maintenance headaches like the ones that you encountered.
Some years ago we had had a stove shop ( working with a sheet metal shop) make a heavy gauge sheet metal plate ( with a lip folded to the inside on the top and two sides) to cover the fireplace opening to be used after a fireplace fire to keep the warm air from escaping up the chimney ( until the damper could be closed).
The plate is flat on the exterior with a 2" right angle lip on the bottom. The inside of the plate, on the right and left, have friction fit sheet metal brackets to hold the plate in the opening. I cut an elongated slot in the plate ( metal cutting blade in a jigsaw) so that the plate will slide from the top down over the back of the stove and exhaust and into/over the fireplace opening.
The plate is painted flat black with high temp paint.
About a three inch space between the back of the stove and the plate, so the elongated slot is not noticeable.
Have a new digital camera on order ( Internet purchase) and will post pics when possible.
Charles U Farley's cover is very professional and innovative. Congratulations to him on his craftsmanship and design
He could go into the custom crafting business for others who need a similar solution. The cover plate we have is not nearly as fancy, but blends with the stove as the stove is close to the opening.
Ranger
I did not convert from an insert to a freestanding, but went with a freestanding in front of the fireplace opening ( to avoid the maintenance headaches like the ones that you encountered.
Some years ago we had had a stove shop ( working with a sheet metal shop) make a heavy gauge sheet metal plate ( with a lip folded to the inside on the top and two sides) to cover the fireplace opening to be used after a fireplace fire to keep the warm air from escaping up the chimney ( until the damper could be closed).
The plate is flat on the exterior with a 2" right angle lip on the bottom. The inside of the plate, on the right and left, have friction fit sheet metal brackets to hold the plate in the opening. I cut an elongated slot in the plate ( metal cutting blade in a jigsaw) so that the plate will slide from the top down over the back of the stove and exhaust and into/over the fireplace opening.
The plate is painted flat black with high temp paint.
About a three inch space between the back of the stove and the plate, so the elongated slot is not noticeable.
Have a new digital camera on order ( Internet purchase) and will post pics when possible.
Charles U Farley's cover is very professional and innovative. Congratulations to him on his craftsmanship and design
He could go into the custom crafting business for others who need a similar solution. The cover plate we have is not nearly as fancy, but blends with the stove as the stove is close to the opening.Ranger
Sculptor,
Pictures of my install and fireplace opening block off plate posted.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/42480/
Ranger
Pictures of my install and fireplace opening block off plate posted.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/42480/
Ranger
Great jobs the both of you!!
Thanks for the ideas and inspiration. I am working on a similar design.
![[Hearth.com] from insert to free standing](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/dsc_0117-gif.210168/ "[Hearth.com] from insert to free standing")
I can't decide whether to go up the chimney or out the back of the masonry fireplace. I have a ss flexible liner inside the chimney. I have an extra 6 ft of it to lower it because it ends about two feet up the chimney and the adapter and rigid pipe were installed(you can see it dangling). I ordered it too short and didn't wait for the extension piece and ran with it. When the extension piece arrived I stored it. I will have to install an OAK and I'm thinking I'd rather go through the masonry than to go up the 40 ft out the chimney (If that's even necessary...still reading up on it).
Thanks for the ideas and inspiration. I am working on a similar design.
I can't decide whether to go up the chimney or out the back of the masonry fireplace. I have a ss flexible liner inside the chimney. I have an extra 6 ft of it to lower it because it ends about two feet up the chimney and the adapter and rigid pipe were installed(you can see it dangling). I ordered it too short and didn't wait for the extension piece and ran with it. When the extension piece arrived I stored it. I will have to install an OAK and I'm thinking I'd rather go through the masonry than to go up the 40 ft out the chimney (If that's even necessary...still reading up on it).
You would need a big pipe to go 40 feet. How about using the masonry flue? You could use a sealed block off plate at the damper with a collar for a short piece of flex to the OA fitting on the stove. At the top a chimney cap with two collars, one for your vent liner and another shorter stub up for the inlet cap. Check to see if your stove has an airtight outside air inlet fitting, if not you might get chimney smells in your room with this method. Some stoves just have a fitting that gets close to the fire box but will let outside air spill into the room. Personally I think I'd rent a 3" core drill and go out the back. That length liner might have pushed me to try the out the back and up 10' type vent install too. I don't like the possibility of soot on the siding, but 40' is a lot of liner.
I'm with you on that! I'm still green about this whole pellet stove thing, but I do believe it's best to go right out the back. Also, my stove comes with the OAK, so if I go UP, I'll have to pay for it. My fireplace has no damper. I found that it takes a jog to the left as it services a fireplace directly above also (not in use). I had a hell of a time getting the liner to take that bend.
Definitely drill it then. Rental shops will have the core drill you need and a big drill motor to match. Plug into a GFI and use a little water to keep the dust down and cool the core drill.
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