Frozen Damper Rod - Dutchwest 2461

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McCarthyB

New Member
Dec 22, 2021
2
CT
I'm having trouble getting full range of motion on the damper rod on my Dutchwest 2461. Any ideas for freeing this up other than continuing to hit it with Liquid Wrench, giving it some taps, and working it back and forth with some vise grips on the rod? Looks like they went to a threaded rod here instead of something a little looser that would be retained with a clip. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Damper Rod.JPG
 
don't use wd40 wd stands for water disperser use pb blast or some kind of rust catalyst.
 
Remove the rod amd SLATHER it w never-seize, or replace it w the updated operating rod which is not threaded.
 
ok, i just had the same issue with a 1995 dutchwest seneca i purchased. the original threaded rod was seized. i hit it with penetrating fluids, propane torch heat, etc. didn't work. ended up using a sawzall and cut the inside section of the rod right up to the cast plate that held the threaded section. then i progressively drilled out the threaded section. it didn't matter if the cast threads were damaged because the replacement rod is non-threaded.
 
Thanks for the tips! - I hit it over the course of a few days with PB Blaster and eventually got it free with a pipe wrench. Cleaned it up inside and out and reassembled. So far so good! Needed to ventilate the room for a while all the product burned off! I'll have to remind myself to move the mechanism every so often when it is not heating season. Maybe that will help avoid a repeat next year.
 
Thanks for the tips! - I hit it over the course of a few days with PB Blaster and eventually got it free with a pipe wrench. Cleaned it up inside and out and reassembled. So far so good! Needed to ventilate the room for a while all the product burned off! I'll have to remind myself to move the mechanism every so often when it is not heating season. Maybe that will help avoid a repeat next year.
go to mountain view hearth products and order the improved replacement. i can see why it was replaced.
 
McCarthyB, Thank you. I have had to do the same Sawzall operation and need to order the retro fit rod from MV but the rod listed for my stove FA224 2181 calls out a 6-1/2" long shaft. But my stove has a 4-1/2" long shaft which they do have but references a different but similar stove 2460. Also the replacement rod looks like the outboard end is now a round with a flat. My original has a 3/8" square that fits the handle. Will this retro need a new handle as well? Thanks
 
McCarthyB, Thank you. I have had to do the same Sawzall operation and need to order the retro fit rod from MV but the rod listed for my stove FA224 2181 calls out a 6-1/2" long shaft. But my stove has a 4-1/2" long shaft which they do have but references a different but similar stove 2460. Also the replacement rod looks like the outboard end is now a round with a flat. My original has a 3/8" square that fits the handle. Will this retro need a new handle as well? Thanks
yes, you will need a different handle. most any set screw type handle will work.
 
Thats what I figured. Thanks for your help.
RWH, just curious, I received all my parts and am installing. The new dampener rod fits ok in the drilled out / hand filed thread hole but the rod ends up being kind of sloppy on the out board end as that hole is oversized. ( maybe the hand filled inner hole is not quite tight either) Im also assuming the washer goes between the e-clip and the inside of the stove wall but this does nothing to hold it up. It works but as I said - pretty loose/wobbly on the outside. MV had no info on this conversion. Thanks for any info.
 
i believe the washer would go in between the e-clip and inner wall. the rod will feel "sloppier" because it is no longer locked into the threads. it will be fine, though, because is locked into the damper rod.