Gas Fireplace Burner Won't Light

[shagberg]

On my gas fireplace insert, the pilot light stays lit and the flame is blue, but the burner doesn’t come on.

These are the steps I’ve taken to troubleshoot:
- Cleaned the thermopile, I’m getting a 630mV reading so it appears strong
- Vacuumed and used compressed air to blow out the burners and pilot light/hood
- Gently tapped the control valve/regulator
- Confirmed that the on/off switch has Ohms resistance when switched on
- Confirmed that the valve has been turned from ‘pilot’ to ‘on’

There is no remote thermometer controlling the temperature.

None of this has worked, any other suggestions?

Does this mean that the control valve/regulator likely is faulty? Is there any way to confirm that, or is it a process of elimination when all else has failed?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Scott

 

[DAKSY]

Please tell us the manufacturer & model of the unit?
Can you hear a “click” when you turn the switch on?
Have you pulled the burner orifice & cleared the gas line leading to it?
Does jumping the TH & TH-TP switches activate the unit?

 

[shagberg]

Thank you for the quick response, Bob.

It is a Kozy Heat insert, Model #911 XL (over 20 years old).

I definitely hear a click when I turn the switch on, and I should have mentioned in my original post that I did try jumping the TH and TH-TP terminals with a paper clip, and that did not work, unfortunately.

I have NOT taken apart the burner orifice, that is a great suggestion and I will try that and report back.

Thanks again!
Scott

 

[shagberg]

I checked the main burner orifice and gas line and they were perfectly clear; there was no buildup whatsoever.

I thought some more about your question about the clicking noise when I turn the switch on, and I probably didn't answer it correctly. The switch itself makes a slight 'click'. But there also used to be a gentle "whoop" sound when I flipped on the switch as the main burners lit, which I do not hear anymore.

Any other thoughts? Your help is much appreciated, thank you.

Scott

 

[Millbilly]

Do you have access to a manometer?

 

[shagberg]

Do you have access to a manometer?

No, I do not unfortunately. Not sure it is worth it to buy one just to try fix this, versus calling a professional at this point?

 

[Millbilly]

Sometimes spider can be further in than what you can see from pulling of the burner orifice

 

[gthomas785]

I checked the main burner orifice and gas line and they were perfectly clear; there was no buildup whatsoever.

I thought some more about your question about the clicking noise when I turn the switch on, and I probably didn't answer it correctly. The switch itself makes a slight 'click'. But there also used to be a gentle "whoop" sound when I flipped on the switch as the main burners lit, which I do not hear anymore.

Any other thoughts? Your help is much appreciated, thank you.

Scott

The gas valve itself should make a click. If it's getting the correct voltage from the thermopile and doesn't click then it's probably stuck and needs to be replaced.

 

[shagberg]

The gas valve itself should make a click. If it's getting the correct voltage from the thermopile and doesn't click then it's probably stuck and needs to be replaced.

Thank you for the explanation. I put my ear close to the valve and there was no sound at all as I flipped the switch on.

To all that have helped me, I'm grateful for the assistance that you've provided, thank you so much.

 

[Millbilly]

Does your volt meter measure ohms also?

 

[shagberg]

Does your volt meter measure ohms also?

Yes, it does - it is a multimeter.

 

[Millbilly]

You can Google test the resistance on the gas valve. If you just google testing mv valve. I can try to find you the instructions. At this point you need to test the valve and pressure out.

 

[shagberg]

You can Google test the resistance on the gas valve. If you just google testing mv valve. I can try to find you the instructions. At this point you need to test the valve and pressure out.

Thank you, I wasn't aware of that. I did google and find the instructions, I will do that early next week when I am back home.

 

[shagberg]

I tested the resistance on the gas valve, by first disconnecting the wires and measured the TH and TP terminals.

The resistance measured 28.5 Ohms - sounds like that is too high, am I correct in thinking that I'm likely dealing with a bad gas valve?

Thanks again for the help.