Gasket replacement in Harman Accentra freestanding

[Glenalmond]

Hi

I have an Accentra freestanding that is about 8 years old now and I am getting a lot of soot buildup on the glass within 12 hours of cleaning.

The gasket looks OK but it is pretty loose on some spots when I do the paper test. I am thinking it might be time to replace and to prevent the glass getting such a quick sooty buildup

However I cant seem to find any info/videos on this.

Specifically I am looking for the following
1. Door removal (how to?) or should I not remove the door and install the gasket vertically? Videos would be best
2. Glass removal (again same questions)
3. What gasket kit should I purchase

I am pretty handy having cleaned and replaced various parts on the stove the whole time I had it. However I am wondering if I should have this done professionally at least for the first time?

Thanks for any advice
Conrad

 

[Ssyko]

I would just change it right on the stove. You tube has hundreds of videos on changing gaskets on doors. Search for pellet stove door gasket

 

[Mt Bob]

Would not recommend removing door,too hard to adjust.You can do it on the stove,use masking tape to hold while working.Will be easier if you use a silicone adhesive.Plenty of videos on youtube,but most important thing,do not stretch rope gasket while installing,lots make this mistake,first time they do it.Should be no reason to replace glass gasket,just make sure bolts are snug.Here is some links. (broken link removed to https://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/harman-door-rope-gasket-30-feet-1-00-00888-p/1-00-00888.htm) https://www.eastcoasthearth.com/pro...r-gasket-8-long-3-8-thick-replaces-1-00-53716 (broken link removed to https://www.ebay.com/itm/HARMAN-Accentra-FS-Stove-Door-Gasket-W-Adhesive-Hopper-Gasket-3-44-247101/261584260004?hash=item3ce7a30ba4:g:L6IAAOSwi0RX1vDE)

 

[Mt Bob]

Now,that being said,I doubt the gasket is that bad causing your problem,I suspect stovepipe/flue is dirty,or a restriction in the intake air,check the little flapper to make sure not stuck,exhaust probe dying, and possibly a weak motor or board going bad.

 

[Glenalmond]

Now,that being said,I doubt the gasket is that bad causing your problem,I suspect stovepipe/flue is dirty,or a restriction in the intake air,check the little flapper to make sure not stuck,exhaust probe dying, and possibly a weak motor or board going bad.

I ordered the gasket replacement and will try that first. My local store does not have a tech available until 20th December. I gave the stove a very good cleaning including the pipes and the knock out Ts at the beginning of the season and have done this for 8 years without a problem. Today the stove just billowed grey smoke for 5 mins after ignition. Usually it smokes up and then goes clear in under a min

I have an oak so I see an air intake pipe. Where is the flapper and how do I check it?

The gasket seal does seem to be going bad as I can't hold a sheet of paper on the bottom and side of the door.

Replacing the seal question I wasn't able to find consistent answers to these questions
How large a bead of sealant should I aim for narrow or have the gasket bathed in it?
Also how long should I let it dry or cure before using the stove
Should it cure with door closed and latched or open?

Any advice or additional tips (the duct tape is a good one) gratefully received

Thanks

 

[Ssyko]

Put about a half inch bead of adhesive in the channel of the door then place your gasket in the channel. You can shut the door but dont lock it down tight just enough to hold it. Cure time should be on the adhesive / pkg. usually 24 hrs

 

[Glenalmond]

OK Gasket is in and curing. Lets see how it goes hopefully this fixes the issue.

However I was watching some additional videos on replacing the exhaust blower. In almost all the videos I see that the tech is working on the stove which is placed on a work bench or table. My follow up question is if you do need to do some major work like exhaust blower replacement etc would you actually put the stove on a table? How heavy is it to get up there with all the cast iron parts taken out? Or do you try and do the work without lifting the stove at the customer site?

Thanks
Conrad

 

[Ssyko]

I'm on the floor working on mine in the house. In my shop i use the engine hoist and put them on my bike lift. most stoves are 225+ lbs I'm not lifting them

 

[Mt Bob]

An Accentra weighs 350 pounds,you only move it if you really have to.

 

[Glenalmond]

Replaced the gasket but while it is super tight along the top and sides of the door I still cant grab a dollar bill on the bottom. Trued the stove just to check and it really took extra long to ignite and was filled with chocking white smoke plus the glass immediately began to build up soot after running it for only 5 minutes. Too me it seems like there is still an airflow problem. The gasket on the bottom is sticking out the same amount as the rest of the door. Is it possible the door got wedged or misaligned (kipped out) so that the top is in contact with the stove rim but the bottom is not. I checked to see if I could see a difference but couldn't really notice one.

Watching the firepot I could see the ash moving from the air being brought in from the outside air kit so I think the flapper is ok and open

Trying to see if I can get a tech from another stove store here before Christmas - might have to throw some extra money at them since I am beyond what I can do for the moment and need some help quickly since the house is super cold without the stove (we have oil heat but not very efficient or as effective at warming the main living room where the stove is located).

Conrad

 

[Ssyko]

From your description im wondering if the door is warped or twisted. Is it a steel or cast door?

 

[Mt Bob]

Poor airflow,from restricted exhaust or intake,or combustion fan not coming up to speed,from bad motor or bad control board or bad exhaust probe or you forgot to put part of the stove insides back in?There are 2 very respectable service companies in your area,that help out here,that can come to your house,will find links.

 

[Mt Bob]

https://www.pelletstovemaster.com/ http://www.pelletstoveservice.com/pellet_stove_service.html

 

[Glenalmond]

Thanks for the links will definitely follow up with them tomorrow
I took off the covers and the blower fan and checked the exhaust tot he T and even though it was sooty and had carbon deposits they were pretty clean and completely unobstructed.

I just find it odd that the door can grab everywhere apart from the bottom of the gasket. I looked more closely at the hinge and locking mechanism and noticed some wear and tear around these parts with a little wiggle room especially on the lower locking parts. However it really was not that significant. No matter what I do I cant get the lower gasket to grab a sheet of paper it slides through every time.

Con

 

[Mt Bob]

Thanks for the links will definitely follow up with them tomorrow
I took off the covers and the blower fan and checked the exhaust tot he T and even though it was sooty and had carbon deposits they were pretty clean and completely unobstructed.

I just find it odd that the door can grab everywhere apart from the bottom of the gasket. I looked more closely at the hinge and locking mechanism and noticed some wear and tear around these parts with a little wiggle room especially on the lower locking parts. However it really was not that significant. No matter what I do I cant get the lower gasket to grab a sheet of paper it slides through every time.

Con

OK,partially blame myself,but i told you a minor gasket leak in a Harman is not a problem.Your stove,or intake ,or exhaust is not clean.really sounds like your flue,pipe,cap is plugged.Or a birds nest somewhere.Post pictures of your complete install,which will give you the opportunity to inspect all of it.Although,buildup could be from crappy pellets,we need more pertinent info.The gasket was never your problem.

 

[Glenalmond]

OK I feel a bit silly but I need to post the outcome

I spent most of the day pulling apart all the venting plus soaking end caps in Coleman fuel (a tip I got from this site) to be able to soften up and scrape off the red high temp silicone.

The flue bristle brush sheared off in the OAK kit and after a lot of swearing I managed to get one of my 6 year old twins to snake his arm up the sooty pipe and grab the brush and pull it free, I am thinking of selling their services as a good Victorian chimney sweep now.

In the process of doing all this I popped a small piece of chicken wire mesh out of the flue pipe. Turns out that I had placed it on the exhaust nozzle after cleaning this spring to keep out birds etc. I sort of pushed it in a 1/4 inch and then forgot about it. Somehow (probably some type of critter) had pushed it further in the pipe. At first the stove ran fine but as time progressed soot began to accumulate on the mesh. This then began to obstruct the airflow leading to more soot build up in the stove and more soot/carbon depositing on the chicken wire mesh. Thus a perfect feedback loop was forming with more soot leading to worse air flow leading to more soot etc.

So everything has been screwed/returned back in place - kids have been washed and now the fire is burring bright and hot as before.

Guess the moral of the story is that almost all my problems can be traced back to cleaning the stove properly.

Conrad