Hi All, i just bought a reconditioned log splitter with a honda gvc160 engine ohc model, , it started at the store after 6 or 8 pulls. not good but i fiqured we over choked or such. at home i could not start after 40 or so pulls, drained all gas , put in new gas, new plug, old plug was soaked, finally got it running after about another 40 pulls, ran great for a full tank of gas, next day no start, i turn gas valve off when not in use, i cannot return as they knocked a grand off the price. previous owner returned for same reason, it probably has about 10 hours on it, also spark seems fine, today i got it started after about 30 pulls, i split for 4 hours and it ran great. i shut it down 3 times for 20 minuters and it restarted on 1 pull, i let it sit 4 hours now it wont start, air filter like new, oil is full and clear.
gvc 160 honda wont start please help
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LLigetfa
Minister of Fire
I'm guessing carb problems. Too much gas with choke, not enough without. You might try a different brand of sparkplug. Some plugs just can't handle getting wet and are never the same again even after drying off. Will it start on ether?
Justin M
Feeling the Heat
Sounds like it may be flooding while it sits overnight. I would start by checking the carb to make sure the float is set properly and no gas is leaking by the needle & seat.
LLigetfa
Minister of Fire
Since CTBurner turns off the fuel valve when not in use, I would rule out flooding while sitting overnight. It simply doesn't start well cold. Thick hydraulic fluid adds additional resistance as well. Carb too lean but choke too rich. Lousy plugs exacerbate the problem.
Justin M
Feeling the Heat
LLigetfa said:
It's still possible that the gas in the carb and fuel line after the shut off valve could be slowly leaking in to the engine.
Jim K in PA
Minister of Fire
I have been using a honda OHV re-powered splitter borrowed from my cousin. It has been a groan to start since I borrowed it. He is not too mechanically inclined, so I have been dealing with it. First, the NGK plug appeared to be a problem. Put in an AC plug, and she fired off. This past weekend, it would not start, and had been running rough the weekend prior. Turns out it was a stuck intake valve. The valve was hung open and it would just puff/pop out of the carb. I pulled the valve cover off and confirmed the problem. I was up in the field with limited tools, but was able to pop the valve back closed with my swiss army knife screwdriver.
Sorry for the long winded reply, but hopefully it will give you something to check. The valve was not gummed up, just mechanically hung. Once I got it free, it opened and closed fine, and it fired on the first pull after I got it back together. He (my cuz) also told me that he had someone fix "something internal in the engine" once before. I suspect the same valve stuck.
BTW - the valve cover is RTV'd on. Be careful prying it off, as it is thin and can be bent.
Sorry for the long winded reply, but hopefully it will give you something to check. The valve was not gummed up, just mechanically hung. Once I got it free, it opened and closed fine, and it fired on the first pull after I got it back together. He (my cuz) also told me that he had someone fix "something internal in the engine" once before. I suspect the same valve stuck.
BTW - the valve cover is RTV'd on. Be careful prying it off, as it is thin and can be bent.
Rowski
Member
Physically make sure the choke is closed all the way. Take air cleaner off and look at choke plate.
Derek
Derek
fyrwoodguy
Feeling the Heat
Humm...
I haven't had any experience with the new oc models but plenty with the ohvs. Next time you try to start try opening the throttle full( no choke) and pull. If it spits and starts then I think the carb needs to be looked at.
And as rowski said check to see if the choke is working from full open to full close.
I always tell folks there are only three reasons why a honda engine won't run. 1, kill switch off. 2, out of gas. 3, human error etc.,bad gas, no gas, no/low oil, kill switch off. %-P
I haven't had any experience with the new oc models but plenty with the ohvs. Next time you try to start try opening the throttle full( no choke) and pull. If it spits and starts then I think the carb needs to be looked at.
And as rowski said check to see if the choke is working from full open to full close.
I always tell folks there are only three reasons why a honda engine won't run. 1, kill switch off. 2, out of gas. 3, human error etc.,bad gas, no gas, no/low oil, kill switch off. %-P
LLigetfa said:
Tried ac plug same result, i hate to use ether, it is hard on rings. i can get it running just takes a lotta pulls
Justin M said:
I am working on doing that
Jim K in PA said:
I will pull the valve cover tomorrow, do i add more rtv when i reinstall??????
Rowski said:
Jim K in PA
Minister of Fire
CTBurner - before you pull the cover off, pull the plug and check for compression. Stick your thumb over the spark plug hole and pull the rope. You may need more RTV to reseal the cover, depending on how bad it shreds when you take it off. I did not re-seal it, and it is not leaking.
Garnification - I guess my cousin got the one defective Honda engine in the US! That would be his luck . . . :smirk:
Garnification - I guess my cousin got the one defective Honda engine in the US! That would be his luck . . . :smirk:
91220da
Member
Hold on everybody, Try this. The honda has a low oil pressure sensor in the crank case that will shut it down if pressure is lost. If my splitter is not sitting level due to ground level grade or I have it attached to my truck (Spliter tilted up hill) it will not start. Level out the machine. make sure the oil level is up to the top threads of the fill plug and try it.
CT,
If/when you pull the valve cover check the valve clearance. I maybe so that the clearance is just a little to tight or the (I'm not sure if that engine has it) auto decompression is not working right. Thats an ohc engine so you should be able to see the decompression linkage if it has it.
Like I said I haven't had the chance to work on that style honda yet but if they're anything like there big brothers and atv they are one tough engine.
Rough estimate clearance: Int. .003-.005", Ext. .005"-.008"
If/when you pull the valve cover check the valve clearance. I maybe so that the clearance is just a little to tight or the (I'm not sure if that engine has it) auto decompression is not working right. Thats an ohc engine so you should be able to see the decompression linkage if it has it.
Like I said I haven't had the chance to work on that style honda yet but if they're anything like there big brothers and atv they are one tough engine.
Rough estimate clearance: Int. .003-.005", Ext. .005"-.008"
I cleaned the main jet and needle valve, all was clean, float is fine, gas flows into bowl fine, float stops flow when i raise it. , put it all back together and no start. poured a tea spoon of gas in carb and it started. choke and throtle seem to work correctly, what do you fiqure is wrong with carb.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
If it starts when you put gas in the carb, it could be a fuel delivery problem.
If it has a fuel filter, check it.
If the cap is vented, make sure its clean and the vent is not clogged.
It still may be a problem with the carb. There is usually a few channels in the body that you need to make sure are not gummed or clogged up.
If it has a fuel filter, check it.
If the cap is vented, make sure its clean and the vent is not clogged.
It still may be a problem with the carb. There is usually a few channels in the body that you need to make sure are not gummed or clogged up.
cmonSTART
Minister of Fire
Having worked on these Honda engines for a while now, at this point I would suspect a fuel delivery problem still and it's probably time to just replace the whole carburetor. The carb for that engine is less than $30 (probably less than $20). They are very cheaply made and are prone to problems. It's not uncommon to have to do this. Replace the gaskets too. When you install the new carb, make sure the choke closes all the way.
Yes, use RTV under the valve cover. Permatex makes a product called "The Right Stuff" which works great for this. If the valve cover was bent too much during removal, you may have to replace it (also only a couple bucks).
Yes, use RTV under the valve cover. Permatex makes a product called "The Right Stuff" which works great for this. If the valve cover was bent too much during removal, you may have to replace it (also only a couple bucks).
Hummm... It sounds like these engines are Chinese mfg. with the honda name on them. So much for being a great engine like their brothers.
Although, I recently raided a HF store and purchased a couple (3) of the Honda knock offs in the 6.5 hp category. They were on sale for 129.99. Two will replace engines on wood splitters and one for a spare. Other than the color, with this engine running along side the comparable Honda I don't think you could tell the difference.
Although, I recently raided a HF store and purchased a couple (3) of the Honda knock offs in the 6.5 hp category. They were on sale for 129.99. Two will replace engines on wood splitters and one for a spare. Other than the color, with this engine running along side the comparable Honda I don't think you could tell the difference.
NoPaint said:
You got to be kiddin'. I love to rebuild any jap carb. They engineer them so they can be disassembled and cleaned and put back together without having to by a rebuild kit. Unless they have been sittin' for 30 years with water in them. I can disassemble and rebuild jap carbs about blind-folded. I've taken apart many-a carbs on the gx series, dirt-bikes, street bikes, atvs, snowmobiles, 2&4;cycle alike but none of these new ohc models. Maybe they are different.
smokinj
Minister of Fire
sounds like the rings have not seated yet and should be by now. I would run a few tanks in a row through it to seat the rings if it dont work than take it to a shop
CTBurner said:
Always check compression with the throttle wide open so the cylinder can get plenty of air but I do believe that you said this engine has only one speed high governed speed. As I said before, I would check the valve clearance and the decompression mechanism if it has one. It might also be a head gasket or bad/broken rings but I doubt it. An excellent solvent to soak carbs in is Simple Green. but don't soak a polished carb in it!
ctburner,
you have indicated that you shut off the fuel supply
are you letting the unit run until out of fuel prior to an extended shutdown?
if their is fuel still in the line/carb it may be leaking past the needle valve
and flooding the motor.
you might try that if you havn't already done so
some of these motors are tempermental that way
also avoids carb gum-up for extended inactivity.
some folks say it'll dry out the seals but i havn't experienced
any problems as most of my motors do get used from time to time
rustynut
you have indicated that you shut off the fuel supply
are you letting the unit run until out of fuel prior to an extended shutdown?
if their is fuel still in the line/carb it may be leaking past the needle valve
and flooding the motor.
you might try that if you havn't already done so
some of these motors are tempermental that way
also avoids carb gum-up for extended inactivity.
some folks say it'll dry out the seals but i havn't experienced
any problems as most of my motors do get used from time to time
rustynut
Same engine/different problem: I recently bought into a 1 year old splitter with only about 15 hours on it and it starts great but it runs intermittently rough when it is not under load. The original owner says it has run like that from virtually the beginning so he started running it with the choke slightly activated. I have run over 10 hours on it (with the choke off) and it seems to slowly be getting a little worse.
This is my first Honda engine of any type and I expected it to run a lot smoother than this.
Ideas/suggestions?
This is my first Honda engine of any type and I expected it to run a lot smoother than this.
Ideas/suggestions?
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