Handling a 2" offset in chimney connector

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

AngierNC

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Aug 16, 2010
11
Angier, NC
I'm replacing my 20 year old wood stove and favor the Lopi Leyden at this point. The chimney connector is 6" and attaches to the Duravent chimney at the ceiling, 8' above the floor. The old connector was a straight vertical run between stove and ceiling. The Lopi stove dimensions are a bit different from the original stove, and in order to maintain the required 16" hearth clearance in the front, the connector pipe ends up about 2" farther back than the original stove. So, in order to keep the connector pipe vertical, I have to somehow make up the 2" offset. I understand this is normally done using 45 or 90 degree elbows. Can either of those be adjusted so that a 2" offset could be handled? Would 2 elbows be necessary? Any other suggestions?
 
If you are working with double wall then you need to kick your stove to the side a bit so that the 2" offset becomes about a 4-5 inch offset. Then back to back 45s will work. I suspect that if you are dealing with minimum clearances that you are dealing with double wall pipe.
 
Do you know what type of class A pipe you are connecting to? If Excel, a pair of double-wall, 30 deg elbows should give an offset of 2". Otherwise, the options suggested above may work if you have wiggle room for the side and rear clearances.
 
This is single wall connector pipe to a Duravent triple wall chimney. Due to the hearth design and position, there's no chance of moving the stove to one side or the other to increase the offset. Can't move it forward due to the required 16" hearth in front and can't move it backwards because it would then be too close to the combustible wall. Looks like the adjustable elbow might be the best solution. For those who have used an adjustable elbow, it appears from the catalog photo that it might be possible to slide the sections so that a nearly zero offset situation could be accomplished. Is that the case?
 
Yeah, that adjustable elbow can adjust from 90 degrees to a straight pipe. There are 4 movable sections. Hardware stores usually have these but they are 24 ga, Hart's Hearth sells 22ga which is more durable.
 
Todd - thanks for the info. I'll have to try and find one of those elbows, or maybe just order one online. You're fortunate that you live where there are still hardware stores! About all we have left is Home Depot and Lowes after they drove the local stores out of business. All the guys working in those stores know is what they have in stock. This being a rather warm area with an extended summer season, it's really difficult to even find a source for stove pipe other than from stove dealers, and they often just farm out their installations to chimney sweeps.

Floyd
 
Why worry? A fair question. The stove is in my family room and with the hall leading to that room at an odd angle to it, I'd be looking at the sloped pipe 50 times a day as I walked down the hall. In once had a house with a slight out-of-kelter door frame at the end of a long hallway. After a couple of years of looking at that, I got the tools and tore the door and doorway out, re-doing it square as it should have been. So, doubt that I could stand looking at the sloped pipe for long. On the other hand, if the solution turns out to be uglier than the problem I may decide I could live with the 2" slope! Or, I may just have to look a bit longer for a stove with the flue slightly farther forward.
 
Maybe just extend the hearth a little bit and stick to a straight pipe? That may be the nicest, cleanest way to address the problem. Done right, it can look quite good and intentional.
 
Can't really do that as the existing hearth impinges on a walking area already. The hearth was a tight squeeze to begin with and it never dawned on me that sometime down the road I might have to replace the stove with something different. My original specs called for a flush-to-the-floor hearth, but the builder didn't plan ahead for a proper hearth and it ended up sticking up 3/4 inch above the wood floor surface. Based on what I've learned, I'd do things a bit differently now, but I'm stuck with the size I have. There are other stoves that will fit with a straight pipe, but they're not top-loaders. Might have to forget the top-loader.
 
So as I recall, Lopi stoves allow very good (small) rear clearance to combustibles. The flues usually exit from the top. You do realize that this single wall pipe must be 18" from the back wall right? You can reduce that to 6" with double wall but then the rear stove clearance requirements become an issue. How is it that you are worried about rear stove clearance requirements but are able to use single wall pipe? It doesn't add up.
 
It doesn't add up if you didn't read my original post in detail. I never once mentioned rear clearance at all. I have plenty of clearance to the rear for single wall pipe. The problem comes in maintaining the front clearance (16") while still having the flue pipe connection on the stove line up front-to-back with the fixed pipe position in the ceiling box. Many of todays stoves (toploaders in particular) are larger in dimension from the front door to the centerline of the vertical flue pipe exit. If I would position the stove so the connector pipe were vertical as with my old stove, then the stove would be positioned too close to the front of the hearth.
 
If there is plenty of room in the rear, a pair of 45 deg. DVL elbows gives a 4.5" offset. Can the stove be moved back further (4.5"), then connected with double-wall, DVL pipe?
 
AngierNC said:
It doesn't add up if you didn't read my original post in detail. I never once mentioned rear clearance at all. I have plenty of clearance to the rear for single wall pipe.

Let's see, you said...

AngierNC said:
can't move it backwards because it would then be too close to the combustible wall.

Was this a mistake? Sure sounds like you are stepping on yourself here.
 
Another consideration is to "trim" around the hearth flush with the existing floor with a non flammable surface, such as tile or stained concrete. This would essentially extend your hearth (keep in mind, that the extension may not necessarily have the appropriate R-value) allowing you to maintain a vertical flu pipe.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.