Harman Accentra 52i install

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Cody901

Member
Oct 19, 2016
69
Maryland
Hey guys, ...so I just recently purchased a new Insert. Curious if I must buy the Harman outside air assembly for 150 bucks or if I could just run the 3" flex right to the intake hole with a hose clamp? The only benefit I see with the assembly is not having to unhook the flex every time I want to pull it out. Also, I will be running 4" flex up the chimney for the exhuast and I have to run the OAK up it as well and need some ideas how to terminate the end on the OAK because they will both be at the same level and in the same flu. Only idea I have right now is terminating the end in the chimney and then cutting a hole in the chimney cap and putting a piece of flex from it bent over and aimed down in the other flu for fresh air and away from the exhuast. Any help I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Cody
 
This is what I use on one of my inserts; (broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/docs/product/PVP_PrairieCap%20and%20Increaser_W.pdf)


I go down through the clean out, and out the side of the house with the other. This is hooked up directly to the stove, not the cage.
 
Google outside air intakes and look around. There are many offered and you might find something you like but no you do not "have" to use a Harman OEM air intake kit. I would look at getting one with a termination cap type deal or shield etc; to keep rain and pests out for sure though.

On my P68 I used the Harman all in one kit for the exhaust and OAK Outside Air Kit. It simplified things and is very nice overall but was pricey for what it is in my opinion. That said for my PC45 I went with a Duravent wall thimble and did my own OAK. Your situation is different since you have an insert and are using a chimney but many here have already done this too. Use the search bar above to see if you can find out info on it. Otherwise, I am sure others will chime in and help that have inserts.
 
Any input on the outside air assembly?

I have never seen this question asked before. Ok, I'm kidding. It's been asked several times and basically, it's not absolutely necessary, with a couple of code exceptions, and your stove will run just fine without one. The case for the OAK is simply not reheating colder air being drawn in the feed the stove from house drafts. I personally don't have one and actually prefer a little fresh air drawn in from the outside but I don't feel any draft, the stove keeps me roasty toasty and if I have to use a few extra bags of pellets a month because of it, I don't care.
 
I have never seen this question asked before. Ok, I'm kidding. It's been asked several times and basically, it's not absolutely necessary, with a couple of code exceptions, and your stove will run just fine without one. The case for the OAK is simply not reheating colder air being drawn in the feed the stove from house drafts. I personally don't have one and actually prefer a little fresh air drawn in from the outside but I don't feel any draft, the stove keeps me roasty toasty and if I have to use a few extra bags of pellets a month because of it, I don't care.
I think it's crazy they want 150 bucks for something it should already have on it but I myswell just do it right.
 
Yes, $150 bucks for a rain hood and some flex pipe etc; is steep. If I recall I paid $250 bucks for my thimble exhaust vent set up with the fresh air intake incorporated (OAK) and shook my head at what all it was for the money. It is a very nice set up and works quite well. I was in a hurry to get my stove and set up installed before I was going out of town for work. Hence, that is why I just ponied up the big bucks. There are other options though but all said and done in the grand scheme I really didn't miss the extra money nor regret I spent it.

As mentioned I went a much cheaper route on my second stove and it was just a bit more work to get the same thing and have no regrets there as well. Many of these parts and accessories carry hefty price tags just because they know people want and need them and they are "specialized" for a specific purpose. Just like the Duravent wall thimbles and such also carry a bigger price because of this for what they are. I shopped the net and found the same stuff for a good deal. One place might have the wall thimbles at $85 and another for $40 so it pays to look and research.
 
Yes, $150 bucks for a rain hood and some flex pipe etc; is steep. If I recall I paid $250 bucks for my thimble exhaust vent set up with the fresh air intake incorporated (OAK) and shook my head at what all it was for the money. It is a very nice set up and works quite well. I was in a hurry to get my stove and set up installed before I was going out of town for work. Hence, that is why I just ponied up the big bucks. There are other options though but all said and done in the grand scheme I really didn't miss the extra money nor regret I spent it.

As mentioned I went a much cheaper route on my second stove and it was just a bit more work to get the same thing and have no regrets there as well. Many of these parts and accessories carry hefty price tags just because they know people want and need them and they are "specialized" for a specific purpose. Just like the Duravent wall thimbles and such also carry a bigger price because of this for what they are. I shopped the net and found the same stuff for a good deal. One place might have the wall thimbles at $85 and another for $40 so it pays to look and research.
So I went ahead and ordered the Harman outside air assembly. Figured this stove is gonna last me along time and 150 bucks to not have to unhook the outside air liner off the unit every time I pull it out will save me the time and headache. Now I just need to order my exhuast liner and insulation as well as the 3" aluminum liner for the fresh air and I will be ready for a install
 
You'll probably be happy especially since you have an insert and it will make things much easier. You'd probably have a bit of money into another set up too but not tons so the difference i'd say would be worth the little extra.
 
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