Harman Accentra dirty glass?

[Bridgeman]

I'm 6 bags into a new batch of FSU's and everything is seems normal except for the glass is filthy with what looks like creosote. Hard dark brown to black that Windex will not clean. There is a black shiny deposites on the sides of the stove and bottom of the door. The flame looks normal and the heat output seems fine. I checked the gasket with a flame and it seems fine. It hasn't been cold in central NH and the stove is idling most of the time. I've been burning the same pellets for a couple of years with no issues. Should I be trying a few bags of something else to see if it makes a difference? Could the gasket be marginal and need to be changed. The stove and flue were as clean possible last fall and checked prior to start up. I did notice a lot of dust bunnys in the stove and cleaned them up as much as possible. I don't have an OAK. Where does the combustion air enter the stove with the OAK knock out intact? I would like to check that for dust bunny blockage. The manual does not address the dirty glass problem.

 

[Big papa]

The air intake for combustion is on the back left when your facing the front of the stove.my glass gets dirty more often and have more clinkers when it's warmer burning on low .maybe what's causing your glass issue. I just clean the glass everyday wether it has a lot of dirt on it or not,makes it easier to keep it clean

 

[smwilliamson]

Door gasket needs replacing and stop using windex. Unless you want grey pitted glass, cause it has amonia.

 

[Big papa]

Door gasket needs replacing and stop using windex. Unless you want grey pitted glass, cause it has amonia.

X2 yes that warning is in the manual

 

[Bridgeman]

I will change the gasket. I suspected it could be that. Thanks!

The Harman manual indicates ammonia glass cleaner is the way to go. I have been using Weiman glass stove top cleaner that works much better.

 

[oliveone]

use water and some ash works great

 

[Bigjim]

My wife and I just picked up a new P52i a couple weeks ago. So what is recommended for cleaning the glass? Could you use simple green? Mine smokes up as well, I'm thinking because i never have it set much above 65°. I was concerned after I did the first burn as the stove was really running hot while I was getting things figured out. The next day I opened it up to check things out and the gasket seemed to stick to the metal. Not sure if it messed up the gasket or not. It seems pretty robust.

 

[Big papa]

My wife and I just picked up a new P52i a couple weeks ago. So what is recommended for cleaning the glass? Could you use simple green? Mine smokes up as well, I'm thinking because i never have it set much above 65°. I was concerned after I did the first burn as the stove was really running hot while I was getting things figured out. The next day I opened it up to check things out and the gasket seemed to stick to the metal. Not sure if it messed up the gasket or not. It seems pretty robust.

My installer suggested non ammonia cleaners.what I do when the stove is hot I use a dry 100%cotton rag and wipe it down.when it's off cool I use a non ammonia cleaner on the glass to get a nice shine.

 

[Bioburner]

My wife and I just picked up a new P52i a couple weeks ago. So what is recommended for cleaning the glass? Could you use simple green? Mine smokes up as well, I'm thinking because i never have it set much above 65°. I was concerned after I did the first burn as the stove was really running hot while I was getting things figured out. The next day I opened it up to check things out and the gasket seemed to stick to the metal. Not sure if it messed up the gasket or not. It seems pretty robust.

If you continue to have gasket sticking issues try and apply some dry graphite-pencil lead. I am slowly get all stoves gaskets replaced with graphited rope. Does not stick or seem to compress due to age as fast.

 

[Mt Bob]

I'm 6 bags into a new batch of FSU's and everything is seems normal except for the glass is filthy with what looks like creosote. Hard dark brown to black that Windex will not clean. There is a black shiny deposites on the sides of the stove and bottom of the door. The flame looks normal and the heat output seems fine. I checked the gasket with a flame and it seems fine. It hasn't been cold in central NH and the stove is idling most of the time. I've been burning the same pellets for a couple of years with no issues. Should I be trying a few bags of something else to see if it makes a difference? Could the gasket be marginal and need to be changed. The stove and flue were as clean possible last fall and checked prior to start up. I did notice a lot of dust bunnys in the stove and cleaned them up as much as possible. I don't have an OAK. Where does the combustion air enter the stove with the OAK knock out intact? I would like to check that for dust bunny blockage. The manual does not address the dirty glass problem.

Well I will bedisagreeing with the"experts".If you see any "shiny" buildup.you have been running your stove too long on low settings.The accentra fs has a convoluted tubing that feeds the internal air wash for the window,supposed to not build up inside burt does,high pressure air will clean it.Papaer towel/work cloth damp with ashes is the way to clean the glass,and then reclean with rutland #84,the silicne makes it much easier to clean next time(I learned this on this forum,it works).Also I have seen the little rectangular holes(tubes)that provide the airwash for the glass get restricted,high pressure air.Sounds like you burn your stove too low,or just needs a good cleaning,unfortunatly the more expensive stoves require higher maintainence,but perform better.As far as your oak,there is no "block off".I did the same thing you are thinking,cleaning the window,twenty years ago,household cleaners do not work(except oven cleaner,but damages things.The local experts may disagree with me(which is great,keeps things open) but I am giving you info from my experiencies.Bob

 

[Bridgeman]

I'm running the stove on room temp. as I always have. Never been a problem in the
past.
There is definitely a knock out for an oak in this unit that is intact. I just don't know how air get to the combustion blower with it intact.
I will change gasket today and see how it goes. Thanks for the help everyone..

 

[Bridgeman]

I changed the gasket and ran the stove on stove temp last night to cure the adhesive. The glass was completely clean this morning. The problem is solved. Thanks again!

 

[tiger]

This stove glass is the one thing I've found that Stoner Invisible Glass won't clean -- time to get a stove-specific product.

 

[smwilliamson]

Wet towel with ashes from the stove and scrub lightly. If it's really stubborn, get more ash and keep scrubbing. Dry towel clean. Perfect everytime. Don't waste yer money on glass cleaner. Gotta wash the glass prior to vacuuming the stove though. I do have some AW Hastings glass cleaner that it is a bluish like syrup. That works really well too but it's $13 a bottle! I also tries some Crest tatar control toothpaste with water and that worked remarkably well too!

 

[Ranger72]

Cinch works great, but I never have such a build up that needs to be scrubbed.

 

[Bigjim]

What about simple green?

 

[Bigjim]

If you continue to have gasket sticking issues try and apply some dry graphite-pencil lead. I am slowly get all stoves gaskets replaced with graphited rope. Does not stick or seem to compress due to age as fast.

My door seal seems to be fine since the first burn, but I am curious about the install off a new seal on this stove for future reference. On my old breckwell I had to actually use some high heat door gasket cement and glue the new seal in. Is the procedure the same on the P52i or is the seal held in by a different means? What diameter of rope seal is used on this stove? Last curious question. If the door seal is held in by a cement, and you're using graphite rope, does the graphite rope seal have any problem adhering beings it is graphite impregnated? Thanks

 

[RKS130]

I agree with most all the posts about not using ammonia based products etc. Having said that, I burned FSUs for about 1 1/2 seasons and also had the shiny black residue. Seems to me it is no harm no foul. Step up your cleaning schedule a bit and this year I have started using pipe cleaners to clear the 'slots' below the glass where the air wash comes out. Has helped a lot. Beyond that, I personally use stove top cleaner, filched from Madame DeFarge.

 

[Bioburner]

Not familiar with that model yet. Replaced two stoves gaskets this week so far and the phone text is beeping. Picture of the kit. Works very well. Was only $6.50. The adhesive is not RTV and is a bit runny to get a good bite on both the metal and gasket.

My door seal seems to be fine since the first burn, but I am curious about the install off a new seal on this stove for future reference. On my old breckwell I had to actually use some high heat door gasket cement and glue the new seal in. Is the procedure the same on the P52i or is the seal held in by a different means? What diameter of rope seal is used on this stove? Last curious question. If the door seal is held in by a cement, and you're using graphite rope, does the graphite rope seal have any problem adhering beings it is graphite impregnated? Thanks

 

[Bioburner]

Just read a label on a bottle of Red Devil Woodstove glass cleaner and it contains sodium hydroxide. Thats right , lye, drain cleaner. Will pull the finish off most metal and make it rust.

 

[thebigo]

Not familiar with that model yet. Replaced two stoves gaskets this week so far and the phone text is beeping. Picture of the kit. Works very well. Was only $6.50. The adhesive is not RTV and is a bit runny to get a good bite on both the metal and gasket.View attachment 144129

You pick that up at a stove shop, hardware store or box big?

 

[Bigjim]

Not familiar with that model yet. Replaced two stoves gaskets this week so far and the phone text is beeping. Picture of the kit. Works very well. Was only $6.50. The adhesive is not RTV and is a bit runny to get a good bite on both the metal and gasket.View attachment 144129

That's the same cement I used. It is runny, definitely something you want to try and apply in a flat position "door removal recommended". In regards to where to by it asked by another individual, i've found it at most of the major home improvement stores. Here in oregon we have Coastal farm and ranch stores, who also carry it, so maybe a big farm and ranch stove if ones available.

 

[Bridgeman]

I used a wet paper towel to moisten the gasket prior to instalation according to the instructions on the kit. This suppose to help the gasket stick to the adhesive. My adhesive was not runny to the point of having to remove the door. I just ran a bead ,press it in and shut the door to seat it and opened the door for an hour. The tricky part is getting a nice square clean joint where the ends of the gasket meet. I put a little extra adhesive at that location to help hold the joint. Cleaning out the old adhesive and instalation of new gasket was less than 1 hour. This is my second replacement so I knew what I needed for tools and the process. This time I put the joint at top center to make it easy to see and work on.