Harman P38+ Distribution Blower Not Working

[fatalber]

I've been successfully burning 24/7 for last 3 weeks. Time for a cleaning, so let the hopper run out of pellets, fire died out, firebox cooled, distribution blower stopped due to lack of heat, combustion blower still blowing, then turned stove off. Stove was off (not unplugged) for 45-60 mins while I cleaned ash out. Cleaned out upper chamber, and lower chamber/ash pan. Scrapped ash off by the fan by the ashpan, but did not go anywhere into the exhaust outlet/ESP.

Re-light without running a test cycle beforehand. Stove is screaming hot, distribution blower not turning on. (FYI, running old-style 2-knob). I turn feed rate off, then to TURBO to run a test. Everything is turning on but distribution blower.

It was literally working fine 1 hour ago. I did nothing near any wiring, I didn't touch the ESP probe...I'm at a loss. I waiting for it to cool down so I can pull the blower and see if its encased in dust/hair etc.

Any other ideas what it might be, or best troubleshooting course of action?

 

[jackman]

Perhaps it's a coincidental failure. Try hooking up the distribution blower directly to 120V and see if it works. I cut the cord off an old appliance to use as a test hookup.

 

[fatalber]

I took the distribution fan off and it definitely does not spin freely. It will spin with resistance but as soon as I stop, it stops. Its definitely gummy, which based on my other reading suggests it needs replacing. I found the part on Grainger, I'm fine installing it mechanically. I'm just not sure about the wiring...as I have not futzed around with the control board/electronics yet.

Does anyone know, do I just pull out the control panel, exposing wiring/circuit board behind it, and that is where the connections can be made?

 

[JPort]

I'm not sure how your P38 layout compares to my Accentra Insert, but I replaced the distribution blower in mine two days ago. Rather than feed the wires up through the stove (the blower is on the bottom of the insert) I cut the wires on the bottom and crimped the new motor on. It's been working perfectly.

Again, I'm not familiar with the P38, so it might be a different story for you.

 

[rickwai]

Blower is a pretty easy replacement. I prefer to cut the wire and install insulated male/female spade connectors between where wire come out of circuit board connector and motor. The circuit board is a pain on that stove. wiring is short and it is tough to get it out far enough to get the pinch strain reliefs unfastened. Plus if you do the spade connectors it makes it a snap to pull fan and blow it out when needed.

 

[fatalber]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your insight. I've never used/crimped on spade connectors, but I'll do some homework and go that route. Thanks again!

 

[JPort]

It's pretty easy to do, although working with wires and electricity can be intimidating. If I'm being honest, I watched a few tutorial videos on YouTube to figure it out, because I'm not electrical savvy.

 

[bogieb]

I'm not sure how your P38 layout compares to my Accentra Insert, but I replaced the distribution blower in mine two days ago. Rather than feed the wires up through the stove (the blower is on the bottom of the insert) I cut the wires on the bottom and crimped the new motor on. It's been working perfectly.

Again, I'm not familiar with the P38, so it might be a different story for you.

Replaced my P43 distribution blower a couple of weeks ago and did the same thing - cut the wires and used wire connectors to attach new blower wires.

 

[bogieb]

Blower is a pretty easy replacement. I prefer to cut the wire and install insulated male/female spade connectors between where wire come out of circuit board connector and motor. The circuit board is a pain on that stove. wiring is short and it is tough to get it out far enough to get the pinch strain reliefs unfastened. Plus if you do the spade connectors it makes it a snap to pull fan and blow it out when needed.

Ha, should have done that instead of the connectors.

 

[JPort]

Ha, should have done that instead of the connectors.

Same here. When I clean the fan at the end of the season, I'll probably add spade connectors. Makes a lot more sense.

 

[fatalber]

OK, so received new blower (Dayton 2C647D) from Grainger. Clipped wiring currently attached to circuit board and added insulated male connectors. Added insulated female connectors to the new Dayton blower. Powered up and the new fan spins, but does so extremely slowly, i.e. does not seem to be outputting anywhere near the airflow required.

Any ideas what the issue could be? The original blower was a Dayton 2C647A, and the replacement I got was a 2C647D (I ordered just a regular 2C647, as there was no number suffix on Grainger). Specs on both fans look similar/identical. Could this matter?

Could it be poor crimping of connectors? Polarity?

Edit: Watts on original motor (2C647A) say 62 watts. The replacement motor (2C647D) says 12 watts. Could this be the issue?

 

[fatalber]

Stand back, moron alert! I thought the test mode bypassed blower pot/knob, which was on low. Once I turned it up, blower works perfectly. Thank you all again for your assistance, it was much appreciated.

 

[JPort]

Stand back, moron alert! I thought the test mode bypassed blower pot/knob, which was on low. Once I turned it up, blower works perfectly. Thank you all again for your assistance, it was much appreciated.

Glad to hear it's up and running.