Here's where I am at. Wouldn't auto ignite for the past three years. After multiple igniters and no luck I had someone tell me that if there was any holes or cracks in my burn pot, it wouldn't light. So I changed the burn pot, no luck. Then I figured maybe it was the control board, so I put a new control board in it. STILL won't auto ignite and now my house temperature cannot be auto regulated and is currently 81 degrees. Changed the ESP just in case, STILL no love. I'm at a loss at this point. Called for a service tech, they are two months out. Can anyone share some wisdom here? I was kind of happier when the stove wouldn't light and the house was a even temp. Ever since I put that new board in it's so darn hot.
Harman P43 issues
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I'll start by saying that when diagnosing igniters, I always plug the stove into a KillOwatt meter so I can watch the wattage draw. If the igniter is heating you'll see 300 or so watts draw. If it's not then the draw will be on the order of 60 to 120 depending on if just the combustion or the combustion and distribution blowers are running. This test will also show if an igniter is stuck on which will burn it out much more quickly than if it's just on to start up.
A question: With the switch in auto ignite, room temp mode will the fire damp down and go out?
That does sound strange with both new igniters and board. Does the metal in the burn pot get warm at all?
Things you may have already done, but some steps I would take.
*Seems obvious, but check that the igniter LED is lit on the board meaning it's actually calling for the igniter.
*If it's calling for ignite and the new igniter is not heating, I would trace the igniter cable all the way back to the board. You could also check continuity end to end with a meter. This would be to check for breaks in the wire. Sometimes wires break right at the spade connector crimps.
*Test the Ohm reading on the igniter, I think it should be around 45-50 ohms, but double check that. I've even briefly bench tested an igniter before by wiring it to a power cord with spade connectors, but if you do that, be careful. That sucker gets real hot, real fast if it's working.
*If the igniter LED is on and wiring back to the board is all good, then I can't think of a reason it wouldn't light. Anything else like vacuum switch should shut the feed and all off as well.
Ray
Things you may have already done, but some steps I would take.
*Seems obvious, but check that the igniter LED is lit on the board meaning it's actually calling for the igniter.
*If it's calling for ignite and the new igniter is not heating, I would trace the igniter cable all the way back to the board. You could also check continuity end to end with a meter. This would be to check for breaks in the wire. Sometimes wires break right at the spade connector crimps.
*Test the Ohm reading on the igniter, I think it should be around 45-50 ohms, but double check that. I've even briefly bench tested an igniter before by wiring it to a power cord with spade connectors, but if you do that, be careful. That sucker gets real hot, real fast if it's working.
*If the igniter LED is on and wiring back to the board is all good, then I can't think of a reason it wouldn't light. Anything else like vacuum switch should shut the feed and all off as well.
Ray
Yay! Responses! @SciGuy - I will try a kilowatt meter. @Ocelot - I will try some wire traces this weekend. The Igniter LED is lit and the but pot will get warm to the touch - but not hot by any means. I have a meter so I can do continuity tests.
The thing that is really bothering me is that I have lost the abilityd to regulate the temp in the house. and to answer your other question @SciGuy the stove will not damp. In fact, when I run out of pellets the stove just goes out it doesn't blink. a code
The thing that is really bothering me is that I have lost the abilityd to regulate the temp in the house. and to answer your other question @SciGuy the stove will not damp. In fact, when I run out of pellets the stove just goes out it doesn't blink. a code
OK and I'm certain that you've done this as you've replaced the igniter twice but just to be certain, have you cleaned all the material that accumulated with the space that the igniter lives in? The only times my P43 ever has failure to light are when I've waited too long to clean that area. I use a shop vac with a couple of feet smaller vinyl hose attached to suck all the material out of that region even back to where the igniter wires enter. The stove always runs so much more happily after that cleaning.
bogieb
Minister of Fire
I did this one earlier this year, and I felt really stupid - I failed to replace the plate that goes over the area where the igitor is. Also, having it cocked a little will do the same. But, you've worked on your stove so much, I can't imagine that something like that has happened every time.
I will say I didn't have to clean that area - as when I put the brand new burn pot in I had issues. Plate was replaced and I did my best to square it up. Now with this new control board I have lost the ability to regulate the temperature of my house. I hate this.
maraakate
Member
Did you bench test the igniter? Also, the wires going from the igniter to the control board could have some kind of internal corrosion or intermittent break that could cause the wires to not work properly. Make sure that's not happening.
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
1 Why did you have to replace the burn pot? Did you use the proper gasket?
2 The way an igniter works is-it gets really hot,inside the fins.The superheated air is drawn up through the holes in the pot, and ignites the pellets. it is VERY easy to install the igniter cradle wrong. Ask my BIL,6 hour drive to their house,only to find this problem. The cradle MUST sit flush up against the bottom of the pot,when screws are tightened, otherwise the hot air will be dispersed and drawn up through all the holes,so no super heated air,just warm air. Did you check the voltage at the igniter?
3 Did you set the dip switches properly,on the new board,as per the instructions? Especially #5.
It is possible you got a bad new control board,it happens. It is also possible your stove has a problem, such as a bad ground. Or even the voltage coming to the stove.
2 The way an igniter works is-it gets really hot,inside the fins.The superheated air is drawn up through the holes in the pot, and ignites the pellets. it is VERY easy to install the igniter cradle wrong. Ask my BIL,6 hour drive to their house,only to find this problem. The cradle MUST sit flush up against the bottom of the pot,when screws are tightened, otherwise the hot air will be dispersed and drawn up through all the holes,so no super heated air,just warm air. Did you check the voltage at the igniter?
3 Did you set the dip switches properly,on the new board,as per the instructions? Especially #5.
It is possible you got a bad new control board,it happens. It is also possible your stove has a problem, such as a bad ground. Or even the voltage coming to the stove.
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