Harman P43 questions

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Norina

New Member
Nov 5, 2021
1
Schaghticoke
Hello, I am a newbie . I recently purchased a Harman P43 pellet stove from a Harman dealer (whom I would not ever recommend). I have a few questions hoping someone can answer.
My outside air intake hose is just shoved into the back of my pellet stove, I can move it...it that ok? Or will that draw more cold in air in as I noticed the stove is running a lot. The outside vent and intake are also on the same thimble plate does that make a difference?
Thank you all for your advise, it is very much appreciated!!

outside pellet vent.jpg outside pellet vent.jpg 3.jpg inside pellet vent.jpg
 
Don't tell me, Reynolds Group, right?
Your loose OAK tubing can be secured with some aluminum tape.
Your new Curtis Lumber store will have it.
The outside air/exhaust thimble is manufactured specifically for Harman,
& is a quality unit. You won't have any issues with that set up.
If you need service, call Best Fire in Troy.
They know their Harmans as well as anyone.
 
Your pipe needs sealer where it goes through the thimble,at least on the inside,but i do both,keeps heat in,cold out,and bugs out. You can use a hose clamp on the intake hose, but the tape is fine also. Which makes me wonder,did they use insulation or caulk on the outside, where the panel goes over the lap siding?? If not,that is bad.
 
The thimble for my P43 is the same as yours - it is fine.

I used to have the OAK flex pipe just shoved into the back of the stove's inlet, but that leaves opportunity for the stove to draw in house inside air along with the outside air (not much, but still). I also could feel a small amount of cold air flowing into the room when the stove wasn't running - this was a real problem in negative temps. I used a short section of larger flex pipe (3" I believe) that goes around the outside of the stove's inlet. I use a clamp to secure the larger pipe and run the smaller pipe into that. Then the overlap is wrapped with a length of foil backed pipe insulation.

This set up keeps warmer house air from being used for burning, cold air leakage into the house, and also makes it easy to disconnect the OAK at the union of the flex pipes when needed (easier than getting to the clamp for me). I plug the end of the smaller pipe with insulation and a Ziploc bag during the summer to keep bugs / critters from getting in.

If I had it to do over again, I would get a thimble with only the exhaust hole, and drill a seperate hole for a 3" OAK, as my P61a is set up. But, the combined thimble works fine, so I'm not going to change it.
 
I am looking for a stove for my house and have come across a great used P43 for a great price. But I believe it is too small for my house. I have about 1950 sq ft on two floors with the added volume most don't have as my main floor ceilings are 12 feet in height! I love Harmans but I think the CAB50 I could buy is better for my space. Thoughts?
 
Buy a bigger output stove than you think you need
It is easier to turn the heat up than try to get more heat from a maxed-out stove
Just my nickels worth
Both stoves are good stoves
 
I am looking for a stove for my house and have come across a great used P43 for a great price. But I believe it is too small for my house. I have about 1950 sq ft on two floors with the added volume most don't have as my main floor ceilings are 12 feet in height! I love Harmans but I think the CAB50 I could buy is better for my space. Thoughts?

Yeah, you would probably be disappointed with a P43 in that large of a space. Always depends on the house layout and dynamics of the natural airflow, but I'd go with something bigger - a 60k stove would be better than a 50k IMO.
 
Keep in mind that rated BTU's by the manufacturer is input BTU, not realized output BTU. You always need to take the BTU spec and subtract 15%