Harman p61 auger bearing replacement

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Spaz

Member
May 3, 2024
246
Nova Scotia
Just curious if there's anything special about replacing the auger bearing on a p61. Other then 4 bolts for the motor and 2 bolts for the auger, then pull auger out. I've already drained the pellet bin put it on test and drained the pellets out of the auger.
 
Just curious if there's anything special about replacing the auger bearing on a p61. Other then 4 bolts for the motor and 2 bolts for the auger, then pull auger out. I've already drained the pellet bin put it on test and drained the pellets out of the auger.
I can only watch this post. Have you searched it?
 
I'm going to find out tomorrow, it went out on me last night. Going to tear it apart tomorrow. That's the results of my research, it's sounds pretty easy. Luckily I found one in Truro and a buddy was going right by this morning. 🥳
 
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Okay here's the solution. The auger bearing was fine, in fact all the bearings were fine. The dust collector was jammed full not allowing the gate to swing back and forth. This caused the auger to get jam packed causing all the noise. The auger comes with the bearing on it, so what I ordered was for a bearing in the assembly that moved everything. Any way it's fixed and running fine so far. Just a good cleaning and yanking the auger out and unpacking all the dust and pellets. Total cost $17 for the bearing and $50 to my buddy for his time. 2 hours at the most.
 
Okay here's the solution. The auger bearing was fine, in fact all the bearings were fine. The dust collector was jammed full not allowing the gate to swing back and forth. This caused the auger to get jam packed causing all the noise. The auger comes with the bearing on it, so what I ordered was for a bearing in the assembly that moved everything. Any way it's fixed and running fine so far. Just a good cleaning and yanking the auger out and unpacking all the dust and pellets. Total cost $17 for the bearing and $50 to my buddy for his time. 2 hours at the most.
I heard they had to be cleaned quite a bit. On my P43 it's not so bad. I remove the control card to make it easier and make sure it's put back correctly. I have a nice small nozzle for my shopvac.
 
It's got a plastic cover on it with a wing nut, never knew it was there. My research said there was a t clip in it to allow movement of part of the assembly otherwise I'd never have known. It's behind the left side panel. But it's working fine now.
 
It's got a plastic cover on it with a wing nut, never knew it was there. My research said there was a t clip in it to allow movement of part of the assembly otherwise I'd never have known. It's behind the left side panel. But it's working fine now.
Oh, so it's not the fines cleanout on the righthand side. I wonder if mine has that. Does it mention it in your manual?
 
Fines box should be looked at once a year, I check mine twice just to be sure, glad you figured it out
 
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Fines box should be looked at once a year, I check mine twice just to be sure, glad you figured it out
I don't think it was the fines box by the sounds of it
 
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I check my fines box every 2nd cleaning for the P61a. It is always full. I do tend to run more dusty pellets, so for others that may be excessive.

Interestingly, the P43, which runs the same pellets, doesn't have that issue and I could probably go 1-2 times per year. But, it only takes a minute or so to clean it, and it is much easier to keep the same schedule for both stoves, so it gets cleaned every 2nd time whether it needs it or not.
 
It was definitely the fines box. It's not easily accessible from outside. Never knew it was there.
OK, I really did think it was the fines box, it was just I guess you were working from the back and said it was on the left. Should be on the right behind the control card with a wing nut and metal with gasket. I was having a hard time getting the cover back on, and put a regular nut on it, as with one hand I found that easier to start. Later I figured out that the control card comes out very easy once you do it a few times (you have to angle it within the slot) and it's worth it instead of struggling. If you don't get it on just right the stove will act up.
 
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OK, I really did think it was the fines box, it was just I guess you were working from the back and said it was on the left. Should be on the right behind the control card with a wing nut and metal with gasket. I was having a hard time getting the cover back on, and put a regular nut on it, as with one hand I found that easier to start. Later I figured out that the control card comes out very easy once you do it a few times (you have to angle it within the slot) and it's worth it instead of struggling. If you don't get it on just right the stove will act up.

If working from the back, then the fines box is on the left (as is the controller). If working from the front, then it is on the right. If working from the side, it probably depends on the way your body is angled as to how the mind percieves it. Mind games - LOL.
 
It was definitely the fines box. It's not easily accessible from outside. Never knew it was there.

Once you get used to it, access is pretty easy without even bending over to look under there. I only look while vacuuming it out to ensure I get all the fines out - everything else is by feel (I don't take the control panel off like Whitenuckler does). You do need to make sure that any wires are out of the way while re-installing the cover, which is probalby the hardest thing.
 
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Once you get used to it, access is pretty easy without even bending over to look under there. I only look while vacuuming it out to ensure I get all the fines out - everything else is by feel (I don't take the control panel off like Whitenuckler does). You do need to make sure that any wires are out of the way while re-installing the cover, which is probalby the hardest thing.
I started out going by feel ect but had a hard time getting the cover back on ect. I was wasting time fiddling. Every since I added my fuse panel, I've had the card in and out many times. Two screws is all that hold it on. Then slide the bottom over and angle it and lift. You may have to cut a wire tie wrap on the ESP and redo it because you want enough slack.
 
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