Harman P61A not starting 2 blink status

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rex66

Member
Apr 4, 2009
26
Central NY
My stove was working fine. I shut it down to clean it out. Specifically because the distribution fan had a lot of gunk in it I wanted cleaned out.
It will not start back up and gives the 2 blink error code. I have made sure everything is sealed up properly and cleaned all the venting pipes inside and outside.
I want to change the ESP probe and see if that is the issue but I was shocked that all the Harman dealers in the area want $95-$99 for the part! I like to support local but a :eek:500% markup is not reasonable so I will wait till my order arrives Monday. I actually keep replacement parts for just about everything but forgot to get an ESP probe.

Just wondering if anyone has any other ideas or suggestions during my cold waiting period!

TIA
 
Is your combustion fan spinning? If the esp is dirty or bent, that’ll also affect it.
 
Check to make sure the room temp probe is connected securely at the back of the stove - if it was jarred out a little the stove gets confused and doesn't know what to do.
 
The two blink is usually an airflow issue or the control board is not sensing a pressure drop in the stove. I am actually heading out to a friend's for the same 2 blink issue. The stove is newly installed last December so it should not be any failed parts or vacuum switch.

First check that all rope seals and the hopper gasket are good and sealing correctly. Make sure the stove and vent are clean. The holes in the burn pot are open and clear. If you have an obstruction or ash build up it can cause the 2 blink. Also check and clean the fines box. Check the clear tubes at the pressure switch are hooked up and clear.

It could be he has a bad vacuum switch or his auger motor failed but very unlikely as his P68 ran fine last winter and is new. It's usually something simple so start with a cleaning of the stove, OAK or air intake, and vent.

I'll let you know what I find is causing his 2 blink later today. It is usually an airflow problem > bad seal or venting obstruction.
 
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Check to make sure the room temp probe is connected securely at the back of the stove - if it was jarred out a little the stove gets confused and doesn't know what to do.

Hey Bogie! Long time and hope all is well. The stove should get past the room probe but run dirty or sloppy flames without the room temp hooked up or that has been my experience. It shouldn't cause a 2 blink but another good thing to check out regardless.
 
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Check your hopper lid mine would act like that sometimes and eventually go out cover wasn’t closed tight,replaced the latch and it was back to normal
 
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Check your hopper lid mine would act like that sometimes and eventually go out cover wasn’t closed tight,replaced the latch and it was back to normal
How old is your stove? The newer ones do not have a switch in the hopper. At least the P68's
 
Thanks for all the tips and suggestions everyone. I had checked everything posted above. My stove is 16 years old. This was the first time I had an issue I could not solve by myself or with the help of this spectacular forum.
A repair guy stopped by today and first he removed the flapper to look at the inside of the hose from the pressure switch. On this old P61A the hose is siliconed in so that was the easiest option. We did blow out a large clump of dust and assumed that was the problem. No dice.
What we did find was the impeller on the combustion fan was sticking causing the 2 blink code. It was tricky because if you pushed it by hand it seemed to spin freely with very little sticking. Years back I had to change this motor and did not replace the impeller so it was the original. He suggested changing it any time you replace the motor. For $22 it seems a wise choice.
Another note was the last time I changed this I was able to get the set screw out by using some PB Blaster and waiting a an hour or so.
I had thought of this ahead of time time just in case (covering all bases) but it didn't work. That thing wouldn't budge. We had to sawzall it off. He said that is the only way he has ever removed them.
Another oddity I noticed was the new impeller had a different size set screw.
Harman makes a great stove and it's a very good idea to buy spare parts so you have them ahead of time.
Please note the 500% mark up on the ESP probe. It turned out I did not need it and it was the only part I did not have but the dealer wants$99 and you can get them online from $15 to $20.
Plan ahead! ;)
 
Glad you figured out the issue!
 
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Hey Bogie! Long time and hope all is well. The stove should get past the room probe but run dirty or sloppy flames without the room temp hooked up or that has been my experience. It shouldn't cause a 2 blink but another good thing to check out regardless.
Hi Bags, I'm doing well. I agree that the stove should get past the room probe, but I had issues with my P61a for that very reason - what it should have done, and what it did do was two separate things. Honestly, I couldn't remember if it threw a code, so figured I would just throw it in the mix since it is an easy thing to check ;)
 
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Glad you figured it out. It can be a bit frustrating and sometimes a head scratcher. Sorry I am delayed in response but I have been very busy.

I figured out the 2 blink's on my friends stove. The exhaust vent was blocked by a dead bird and ash so it was an airflow issue just like you had an airflow issue with the exhaust no functioning correctly.
 
Thanks for all the tips and suggestions everyone. I had checked everything posted above. My stove is 16 years old. This was the first time I had an issue I could not solve by myself or with the help of this spectacular forum.
A repair guy stopped by today and first he removed the flapper to look at the inside of the hose from the pressure switch. On this old P61A the hose is siliconed in so that was the easiest option. We did blow out a large clump of dust and assumed that was the problem. No dice.
What we did find was the impeller on the combustion fan was sticking causing the 2 blink code. It was tricky because if you pushed it by hand it seemed to spin freely with very little sticking. Years back I had to change this motor and did not replace the impeller so it was the original. He suggested changing it any time you replace the motor. For $22 it seems a wise choice.
Another note was the last time I changed this I was able to get the set screw out by using some PB Blaster and waiting a an hour or so.
I had thought of this ahead of time time just in case (covering all bases) but it didn't work. That thing wouldn't budge. We had to sawzall it off. He said that is the only way he has ever removed them.
Another oddity I noticed was the new impeller had a different size set screw.
Harman makes a great stove and it's a very good idea to buy spare parts so you have them ahead of time.
Please note the 500% mark up on the ESP probe. It turned out I did not need it and it was the only part I did not have but the dealer wants$99 and you can get them online from $15 to $20.
Plan ahead! ;)
I would be leery of ESP for $15. Remember, that probe runs your whole stove. And they last a long time. Some things are not a good idea to go cheap on.
 
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