Harman XXV OAK Options - Stumped

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

twodogs02

Burning Hunk
Nov 30, 2013
142
plus.google.com
I live in a log home, 8" red pine logs . My XXV stove is a corner install within the center of the house. The exhaust was vented straight up using 4" inch pellet pipe through the roof using Harman's top vent adapter (18.5 feet to the exterior cap).

I then encased the pellet pipe with six inch black stove pipe up to the ceiling thimble. I have 8 feet from top of stove to the ceiling thimble.

I want to install an OAK, looks like I need three inch pipe after reading the install manual. Here is my thinking:

Poor choice:
Run another 3 inch pipe straight up behind the black pipe. Wife would never go for this and I don't like it either.

Better option:
Go into the interior wall using rectangular duct work, drop down to the garage ceiling and run the pipe out through the sill plate as the sill plate is log siding not full logs . This option requires one 90, 9 feet of 3 inch pipe plus the rectangular duct work. I'd rather not do this because the OAK is in the garage and the 2x8 floor joist have 5" spray foam in them which is a b**ch to chisel out then re-foam. Also there is the concern of the OAK nearest the stove going into an interior wall (combustible ) running through a garage with the potential of combustible gases/fumes.

My interior walls are 2x4 construction which further complicates things.

I have no direct path to take the OAK pipe to an exterior wall from the stove since it is in the center of the house.

Right now I'm leaning toward the garage pathway or no OAK at all so any input would be helpful.

The reason I'm considering an OAK is you can feel the cold draft coming from the master bedroom when the stove is on. The master bedroom remains six degrees cooler than any other part of the house and it's the closet adjacent room to the stove.
 
Last edited:
Is there a basement / crawl space? Run down and across and out. An OAK also follows EVL so depending on run length, you might have to increase size. Distances to exterior walls?
 
May be the most expensive option but you could replace your vertical vent pipe with Selkirk, turning your vent into an OAK as well. I'm not sure of the fittings required but we have members who have used this system and love it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mepellet
Just a thought but let's say you spend a few hundred dollars putting in the OAK. That's a ton of pellets so I wonder when you would hit the break-even point?
 
Is the garage below heated? If not, you could just end it at the garage ceiling and draw from the garage, better than your living space
 
  • Like
Reactions: zrtmatos
Is the garage below heated? If not, you could just end it at the garage ceiling and draw from the garage, better than your living space
You can't draw from interior spaces with an OAK. I know that's basically what youre doing when you dont use an OAK but the manuals specifically say not to draw from interiors walls, garages, etc
 
Don't know that I would want to draw from a garage, could have bad effects when a car is running inside. I know we usually don't let them run that long inside a garage, but still.
 
This is a tough one but there is always an option. Where there is a will there's a way. Sounds like you have explored your limited options. The OAK would likely eliminate the out of the bedroom draft but is it worth it? You can still get outside but need to size accordingly. The oval pipe is a solution for the 2 x 4 wall cavity and can be returned and connected to round. That's why they make it and size accordingly. You just need to figure out what you need for the distance you are going and if it is worth it to you.
 
May be the most expensive option but you could replace your vertical vent pipe with Selkirk, turning your vent into an OAK as well. I'm not sure of the fittings required but we have members who have used this system and love it.
There is such limited information put out by Harman on the top vent option. I reviewed the Selkirk pipe but can't figure out how to route the OAK down the stove other than the T fitting that splits the vent and exhaust.

I don't think having a T fitting at the top of the stove would look very good. The reason for the top vent option is to keep the look of a wood stove. Anyone have pictures of a Harman with top vent option and Selkirk pipe?

Could I terminate the Selkirk pipe in the attic, drawing attic air for the fresh air and continue the 4" vent to my roof stack to avoid replacing everything on the roof?
 
Last edited:
Kinda makes you wish you went with Selkirk DT venting to begin with huh? Looks a lot like wood stove piping like what you were trying to achieve with the 6" stove pipe.
I suppose if my dealer recommended it I would have went that route. Didn't know it existed until I came on here asking for alternatives.
 
Is there a basement / crawl space? Run down and across and out. An OAK also follows EVL so depending on run length, you might have to increase size. Distances to exterior walls?
The garage is the lower level and has 2x8 floor joists with 5" spray foam. Nine foot run to sill plate once I drop down through interior wall.

Would like to avoid removing that 2lb foam as its hard to do and expensive to replace.
 
May be the most expensive option but you could replace your vertical vent pipe with Selkirk, turning your vent into an OAK as well. I'm not sure of the fittings required but we have members who have used this system and love it.

I think the Selkirk w/OAK is only one section with the connection on the interior and vent holes on the other end (underside) outside - 3' section.

Edit: Selkirk DT - got it;em
 
The garage is the lower level and has 2x8 floor joists with 5" spray foam. Nine foot run to sill plate once I drop down through interior wall.

Would like to avoid removing that 2lb foam as its hard to do and expensive to replace.
My garage is unheated but insulated. Run my OAK from there. No problems.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.