Need to change my door springs. Long story, but the local company wants twice what the door is worth to do this. Clopay door.
Has anyone worked on or installed garage door springs?
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heat seeker
Minister of Fire
If you're talking about the single spring over the doorway - leave it to a pro!
But, if you're talking about the springs on each side of the track, it's an easy fix. With the door as high as it will go, clamp some Vice-grips in the track to hold the door up. You'll probably find that there is no tension at all on the springs. Take off one at a time, so you can use the other side as a model for how to run the cable. Make sure to get the extra cable that runs through the spring itself. When a spring breaks, it can take off and do some real damage to things and people!
There are how-to's on how to do this, and using some common sense, almost anyone can change these springs. Working on them when there's no tension on them is safe and easy.
As an aside, I had one spring break in a detached garage. I heard it hit the wall from inside the house with the TV on. It left a substantial imprint of itself in the 2X4 along the door. When the door is down, there is a boatload of tension on the springs, and they can do some real damage when they break! That's why, around here at least, it's code to have the cable running down the center of the spring. When the spring breaks, it is kept in place by this cable.
I've seen tutorials in how-to books, and there are plenty on YouTube.
But, if you're talking about the springs on each side of the track, it's an easy fix. With the door as high as it will go, clamp some Vice-grips in the track to hold the door up. You'll probably find that there is no tension at all on the springs. Take off one at a time, so you can use the other side as a model for how to run the cable. Make sure to get the extra cable that runs through the spring itself. When a spring breaks, it can take off and do some real damage to things and people!
There are how-to's on how to do this, and using some common sense, almost anyone can change these springs. Working on them when there's no tension on them is safe and easy.
As an aside, I had one spring break in a detached garage. I heard it hit the wall from inside the house with the TV on. It left a substantial imprint of itself in the 2X4 along the door. When the door is down, there is a boatload of tension on the springs, and they can do some real damage when they break! That's why, around here at least, it's code to have the cable running down the center of the spring. When the spring breaks, it is kept in place by this cable.
I've seen tutorials in how-to books, and there are plenty on YouTube.
lml999
Minister of Fire
Yes, pretty easy to do. Make sure that you get the correct replacement springs. They're color coded (dab of paint by the end of the spring. But...be careful, if you look at a color chart, you'll notice that the colors repeat. D'oh.
You want the door to be balanced about midway up...with the opener disconnected, the springs will keep the door from lowering, and you should be able to lift it with little resistance.
You can also weigh the door to determine what weight springs you need. There's a couple of youtube videos describing this...
What you don't want is much heavier springs than original. That will keep the door from lowering and sealing properly.
That having been said, why do you need to replace the springs? Did one break?
You want the door to be balanced about midway up...with the opener disconnected, the springs will keep the door from lowering, and you should be able to lift it with little resistance.
You can also weigh the door to determine what weight springs you need. There's a couple of youtube videos describing this...
What you don't want is much heavier springs than original. That will keep the door from lowering and sealing properly.
That having been said, why do you need to replace the springs? Did one break?
Nope, this is the single, coil wound spring. I am aware of the risks. It takes proper knowledge and tools. Here is what I am wondering if anyone has done:
https://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/single-tsreplacement.php
https://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/single-tsreplacement.php
Mike M.
Feeling the Heat
Piece of cake, done many. I would start with the door all the way closed and vise griped in place. Try your best to count the unwind full revolutions as you relieve the spring tension. This will give you a starting point on the new one. Take your time, invite over a friend. Adjust the new spring as required slowly.
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Thanks, I have no desire to break a wrist or worse, but the detailed instructions appear to provide good guidance. Are these the steps you have taken?
Mike M.
Feeling the Heat
Yes those are the steps. I adjusted a commercial size door once because it wasn't staying open. My manager kind of let me have it for doing so. I guess growing up in a house where you do everything and never call a "repair man" sticks with you for a long time.
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I have done several before. Make sure you get a steel rod that fits the diameter of the hole. As the link says, it needs to be the right size, snug and long enough. Most hardware stores and even HD and Lowes has steel rack that sells miscellaneous steel so buy the right size. It definitely not something to do in rush or under the influence of beer, slow and deliberate is the way to avoid injury.
One other odd thing is that if the door is left down for many years especially in corrosive environments the coils can rust together under tension. I had this happen with couple of industrial doors and the factory tech sprayed them down with penetrant and whaled the crap out of the spring with a hand sledge to get the coils to let loose.
One other odd thing is that if the door is left down for many years especially in corrosive environments the coils can rust together under tension. I had this happen with couple of industrial doors and the factory tech sprayed them down with penetrant and whaled the crap out of the spring with a hand sledge to get the coils to let loose.
This is a different situation. The door is a high-lift. In spite of 3 tries and a spring changeout the installer never got it to work right. That was 6 yrs ago. Now I don't care if it isn't a high lift. I just want it to work right, so I am willing to put on standard spring and cables and make it a standard lift.
sportbikerider78
Minister of Fire
When safety is an issue, I you have to do a quick risk analysis. If I screw this up, can I get injured severely and not see it coming? I'd say a big yup.
I'd roof a house at the highest peak before I'd play with the potential energy in one of those springs. Stored energy like this can be fatal if you don't know what you're doing.
I'd just keep looking for a better quote.
I'd roof a house at the highest peak before I'd play with the potential energy in one of those springs. Stored energy like this can be fatal if you don't know what you're doing.
I'd just keep looking for a better quote.
That is the rub, there is only one place that services these doors in our area. They want $175 just to show up at your site.
beatlefan
Feeling the Heat
I’ve done this many times. The tutorial seems accurate. In my case, the springs were always broken and the tension was already off for disassembly.
I remove the spring and take it to the local garage door shop and they cut me a new one. I have two 3/8 drive socket extensions that are about 15” long to wind the spring back up. This part is a little tricky. Just be sure you always have a firm grip on one before removing the other.
Mark the location of the original spring on the rod before you remove it. That way you can get the new one close to where it should be. Perfect adjustment is achieved when you can raise the door half way up (by hand) and it rests in place without drifting down or raising up on its own.
I remove the spring and take it to the local garage door shop and they cut me a new one. I have two 3/8 drive socket extensions that are about 15” long to wind the spring back up. This part is a little tricky. Just be sure you always have a firm grip on one before removing the other.
Mark the location of the original spring on the rod before you remove it. That way you can get the new one close to where it should be. Perfect adjustment is achieved when you can raise the door half way up (by hand) and it rests in place without drifting down or raising up on its own.
Looks hard to me since I never tried it yet but looking at the tutorial, must be easy after you've done it even once.
In the whole puget sound region you could only get one guy to answer the phone? We are sent advertisements every week from at least three garage door maintenance companies begging to service or install overhead doors.
Not that, just one that will come service our remote area. And they are not the closest. I have called many. One other said they will come, but they are not Clopay dealers so I would have to pay $150 to have the guy check it out and then again for him to come out with the right parts.
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