Heat & Glo 6000CLX Air Problem

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OhBoyItsFire

New Member
Jan 28, 2020
11
US
I have a Heat & Glo 6000CLX that was recently installed.

Aside from being converted from LP to Natural Gas by the installer, it is a stock configuration.

16' Flue with one 45* elbow.
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The problem I'm running into is that if you try to run it at full flame height, it runs good for about 20 minutes and then the central flames kind of keep getting higher and cooler to a point were they occasionally touch the brick and roll into the flue.

If you run at at 1-3 of 5 flame height - it seems to be OK. It's just if it's 4/5 or 5/5 it doesn't seem right.

They've replaced the regulator (made no difference).
They've adjusted the O2 mixture to be 100%. ( we are a low elevation)(not much change).
The installer says the logs and such are installed correctly.

The installer is telling me that there is no safety issue or risk of premature wearing on the unit with the flame rolling a bit a few times a minute.

The installer claims the flames just run high on these units:
That doesn't make sense to me since how would someone in say Colorado at high elevation even use the unit if it a big cool central flame at sea level.

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They're contacting the factory rep again - the reps first guess was changing the regulator.
I believe everyone involved wants to help resolve it - they just don't know what's wrong.

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Any help appreciated!
 
What is the gas pressure coming out of the valve to the burner?
Did the installer use the CORRECT burner orifice at fuel conversion?
LP should behave a #49 which has a .073" diameter.
NG calls for .124", almost TWICE the diameter.
 
As far as I know they replaced the valve and regulator with the correct NG parts.

I don't have a way to measure the pressure - but in your experience is that the most likely problem and something they should take the time to check?

I just don't know what the H & G rep is going to come back with, so just trying to make sure I have other intelligent ideas to throw out if that doesn't go anywhere. I have enough mechanical knowledge to know it's goofy - but no specific experience with gas systems or thermodynamics.
 
That was just a guess based on my knowledge of gas units.
I can talk to a service rep tomorrow to verify.
 
Talked to a service tech at the hearth shop where I work. It’s either the burner orifice, which is a pain in the butt to access, or the air shutter. The air shutter adjustment is in the valve cavity. There is a wingnut securing it to the bottom of the firebox. If the air shutter is too far closed, like is it for NG, it will exhibit those tall flame. symptoms. If your flames are orange instead of yellow, it’s the air shutter. Loose the wingnut & slide it one way or the other until it’s wide open. If the flames are too blue, close it back down in 1/8” increments until the flames are blue at the bottom and yellow at the top. Let me know how you make out.