Heating with a Malm Imperial Carousel

[turn burner]

I recently moved into a house that has a Malm Imperial Carousel installed in the living room. Its an older circular freestanding fireplace, pre-1994 model.

Like many who frequent this site, I live in woodlands, enjoy gathering wood, and hate burning propane! I want this puppy to heat my home. However, it seems to really eat up the wood and not put out all that much heat. Obviously the design is more form than function, so I understand it will never perform as well as a new high efficiency unit. I have considered replacing the stove, but honestly I am not ready to give up the glass and pretty swirling flames just yet.

Rather than replacing the stove, I would like to make some modifications to improve efficiency. I am turning to the collective wisdom of the internet to vet my ideas. Here are my ideas:

1. Install fresh air intake. The stove sucks in tons of house air around each glass pane. I would like to install an intake pipe from outside, run it below the floor, and come up through the center of the stove base and into the fire box. The refractory is missing in a couple of places - I could probably drill some holes through the floor of the firebox and fit some small stubs of pipe to prevent most ash from falling down in. Maybe put a ball valve on the intake pipe to regulate airflow.

2. Seal the stove. Since the airflow is not regulated very much, I cannot slow the burn. If i were to take some high-temp sealant and go around each glass panel, the stove would be much more airtight. Any recommendations for sealant? I don't think there is room for any gasketing.

3. Install a damper. Again, for regulating airflow. Note: the owners manual states: "Do not use a damper with your Carousel. The use of damper will most likely do damage to your unit. It may cause the ceramic glass to soot up and void any warranty." I can live with some soot, but the damage part is an issue. See #4 below.

4. Ceramic glass! Now, the caveat to the above items is that by limiting airflow, the stove is going to get hotter (a good thing!) but also shatter all of its glass panes one-by-one (bad deal!). I have broken three glass panes already due to hot fires. I have temporarily replaced each of these with sheet metal (I'm all about form, remember?). I am fairly certain that this stove currently has tempered glass, despite the owners manual stating that ceramic glass must be used. Since ceramic glass can withstand much higher temperatures, if I bite the bullet and invest in ceramic glass, I should be able to run my modified carousel at proper wood stove temps. Bite the bullet = 11 glass panes @ $80/pane for ceramic glass + $160 for the door. That is PANEful! (heh... couldn't resist) Anyone know of a lower cost source for said ceramic?

Anywho, I am interested to hear what the Hearth community has to say about all of this! Will my ideas work?

 

[Qvist]

I tried to seal up a masonry fireplace years ago. It made it tiny difference but not much. The only thing that made it able to heat the house was a blower system that forced air under the coals in pipes and then directed it into the room. (Fireplace blower fan) it it were mine I would either replace the glass pieces with ceramic, and use it as is or get something more efficient for heating. Maybe even both (keep the fireplace but install a wood stove somewhere else.) That's what we did. I have used Malm fireplaces trying to heat a house before, I found it scary. The thin steel and glass just isn't made for that kind of service and they are uncontrollable.

 

[coaly]

I recently moved into a house that has a Malm Imperial Carousel installed in the living room. Its an older circular freestanding fireplace, pre-1994 model.

Like many who frequent this site, I live in woodlands, enjoy gathering wood, and hate burning propane! I want this puppy to heat my home. However, it seems to really eat up the wood and not put out all that much heat. Obviously the design is more form than function, so I understand it will never perform as well as a new high efficiency unit. I have considered replacing the stove, but honestly I am not ready to give up the glass and pretty swirling flames just yet.

Rather than replacing the stove, I would like to make some modifications to improve efficiency. I am turning to the collective wisdom of the internet to vet my ideas. Here are my ideas:

1. Install fresh air intake. The stove sucks in tons of house air around each glass pane. I would like to install an intake pipe from outside, run it below the floor, and come up through the center of the stove base and into the fire box. The refractory is missing in a couple of places - I could probably drill some holes through the floor of the firebox and fit some small stubs of pipe to prevent most ash from falling down in. Maybe put a ball valve on the intake pipe to regulate airflow.

2. Seal the stove. Since the airflow is not regulated very much, I cannot slow the burn. If i were to take some high-temp sealant and go around each glass panel, the stove would be much more airtight. Any recommendations for sealant? I don't think there is room for any gasketing.

3. Install a damper. Again, for regulating airflow. Note: the owners manual states: "Do not use a damper with your Carousel. The use of damper will most likely do damage to your unit. It may cause the ceramic glass to soot up and void any warranty." I can live with some soot, but the damage part is an issue. See #4 below.

4. Ceramic glass! Now, the caveat to the above items is that by limiting airflow, the stove is going to get hotter (a good thing!) but also shatter all of its glass panes one-by-one (bad deal!). I have broken three glass panes already due to hot fires. I have temporarily replaced each of these with sheet metal (I'm all about form, remember?). I am fairly certain that this stove currently has tempered glass, despite the owners manual stating that ceramic glass must be used. Since ceramic glass can withstand much higher temperatures, if I bite the bullet and invest in ceramic glass, I should be able to run my modified carousel at proper wood stove temps. Bite the bullet = 11 glass panes @ $80/pane for ceramic glass + $160 for the door. That is PANEful! (heh... couldn't resist) Anyone know of a lower cost source for said ceramic?

Anywho, I am interested to hear what the Hearth community has to say about all of this! Will my ideas work?

View attachment 289342

Fireplaces do not have controlled air that closes down on airtight stoves depriving fire of oxygen. Since fireplaces burn freer, they do not produce creosote.Water vapor is expelled with little smoke reducing chances of chimney fires. Even though chimney temperatures are higher by losing more heat, they do not have to be rated for higher temperatures during a chimney fire. For that reason the chimney is not required to sustain creosote fires that a high temperature chimney for a wood stove is rated for. (UL 103 HT) It is likely you have a low temp rated chimney, not for the use of decreasing air flow creating creosote, that was made for factory built fireplaces. (UL 127)

Keep it if you want the looks, but you need a wood stove and high temperature chimney for heat. Newer stoves have large glass for fire viewing that stay clean and very low clearances.

 

[turn burner]

Thanks, all, for your insights! Qvist, I want to see that pipes-under-the-coals setup, that sounds awesome. I do appreciate the eye towards safety, and do agree that when the Malm really gets burning, it is a little scary. Regarding the chimney, it is rated to UL 103 - has an insulated class A chimney system at the roof. Higher risk of chimney fire is certainly something to consider.

I intend to make some improvements over time, and see how close I can get to a functional wood heat for next winter. I may find myself buying a more purpose-built stove in a few years, we'll see!

 

[bholler]

Thanks, all, for your insights! Qvist, I want to see that pipes-under-the-coals setup, that sounds awesome. I do appreciate the eye towards safety, and do agree that when the Malm really gets burning, it is a little scary. Regarding the chimney, it is rated to UL 103 - has an insulated class A chimney system at the roof. Higher risk of chimney fire is certainly something to consider.

I intend to make some improvements over time, and see how close I can get to a functional wood heat for next winter. I may find myself buying a more purpose-built stove in a few years, we'll see!

It needs to be ul 103 ht. Ul 103 is lower temp for open fireplaces

 

[EbS-P]

It’s pretty. Keep it for what is it. Spend money on something that is designed to heat. Mini split? Stove? Wood furnace? Yes an VW bug can be made to run a 12 second 1/4. Or for probably about the same some and, a great deal safer, you could buy a production car with air bags that you could drive to the store.

I’d ditch the whole thing and install a new wood stove in a spot that opens the floor plan.

Just my thoughts.

 

[AnnieEngman]

Turn Burner, hello!

This has been the most valuable info thus far that I can find on this stove, and I'm very curious as to how you've since fared?

We are a Michigander and Chicagoan pair now living in Upstate New York, and I'm rather obsessed with the Malm Imperial Carousel wood burning stoves/fireplaces. We're needing a wood-burning fireplace feature, and it's going right in the middle of essentially two living rooms; open on all sides is so very ideal. (At minimum open on two sides, a la "see-through"...)

While we do have baseboard heating and were comfy with that last winter, it was a wild bill every month (as we're in a traditional full-log cabin, etc.). We'd like to augment that with the fire feature we get, but our opinions differ on how efficient it needs to be; I'm aesthetic driven and he's all about function.

We at least both agree that whatever we install can't have us LOSING heat in any way, and hopefully augment/provide heat, too.

I'm trying to make the case that they're at least more efficient than a fireplace to heat our open-plan log cabin, even if I know I'm sacrificing an amount of efficiency than if I was to go with something newer and/or more enclosed?

Anyhow, wondering your new thoughts / experience since your post in January!

Many thanks, and Happy Fall/Winter...

Annie & Danny

 

[bholler]

Turn Burner, hello!

This has been the most valuable info thus far that I can find on this stove, and I'm very curious as to how you've since fared?

We are a Michigander and Chicagoan pair now living in Upstate New York, and I'm rather obsessed with the Malm Imperial Carousel wood burning stoves/fireplaces. We're needing a wood-burning fireplace feature, and it's going right in the middle of essentially two living rooms; open on all sides is so very ideal. (At minimum open on two sides, a la "see-through"...)

While we do have baseboard heating and were comfy with that last winter, it was a wild bill every month (as we're in a traditional full-log cabin, etc.). We'd like to augment that with the fire feature we get, but our opinions differ on how efficient it needs to be; I'm aesthetic driven and he's all about function.

We at least both agree that whatever we install can't have us LOSING heat in any way, and hopefully augment/provide heat, too.

I'm trying to make the case that they're at least more efficient than a fireplace to heat our open-plan log cabin, even if I know I'm sacrificing an amount of efficiency than if I was to go with something newer and/or more enclosed?

Anyhow, wondering your new thoughts / experience since your post in January!

Many thanks, and Happy Fall/Winter...

Annie & Danny

They are probably slightly better than a typical open fireplace. I would guess 10% efficency at most

 

[Phx Malm Guy]

We too have a Mid Century Malm Imperial Carousel that we are wanting to sell, where is the best place to advertise it. It is beautiful and a true mid century unit.

 

[begreen]

craigslist is often good. There is also a classified section here. Be sure to include some pictures.

Classifieds for Sale/ Wanted, etc.

Here is where you can post descriptions and pictures of stove related articles you wish to sell - or items wanted.

www.hearth.com

 

[Imperial1970]

We also just moved into a home with a 1970’s Malm Imperial Carousel Fireplace and it’s so drafty! It’s the only heating element in the home and would like for it to be efficient to do its job! Id like it gone but everyone says we should keep it cuz its cool…thoughts?

 

[begreen]

It's a very cool stove for looks, but not the best for heating. A ceiling fan or two would help circulate the warm air that will pocket up at the ceiling peak. If you want to keep it, then maybe add a mini split heat pump to the room.