Help! Austroflamm integra Ii is driving me crazy

bke7

Member
Jan 1, 2015
32
Northwest CT
It has been a series of frustrating problems
Control board was checked and is working properly
Air sensor is new
High and low limit switches and ignitor all have been replaced
Verified wiring to control board
Stove , flue burn pot and exhaust are all immaculately clean

When the stove starts it goes thru initial sequence, pellets drop but Ignitor never energizes, and convection fan does not come on
Burn pot fills with pellets then shuts down
The only remaining things to check would be hall sensor and convection motor itself, but would this cause the ignitor to not work . I am in the dark with two parts

any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
 
Last edited:

johneh

Minister of Fire
Dec 19, 2009
2,203
Eastern Ontario
The convection blower is working how about the combustion fan/ motor(the one in the exhaust) ?
If it is not working no mater how hot the igniter get the stove will not fire .
 

bob bare

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
2,957
park county montana
I think you mean combustion fan.The convection fan is the one that circulates room air.The combustion fan is quiet on that stove,you may have to be near it to hear it.You can plug the motor into wall outlet and check for running.Testing the hall sensor is a bit more difficult.
 

bob bare

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
2,957
park county montana
The combustion motor should spin very freely,when you spin the impeller by hand.If not,bearings are bad.If motor runs very slowly,when trying to start stove,the capacitor on the motor is probably bad.If motor,on startup,starts to run,runs erratically,then comes to a stop,or almost stop,is probably hall sensor,which is also part of motor.
 

bob bare

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
2,957
park county montana
I assume you have removed your combustion motor for cleaning,before,so you know it has an external flywheel,and you can watch it run.
 

bke7

Member
Jan 1, 2015
32
Northwest CT
I did remove the motor when I did this maintenance cleaning , replaced the gasket and reinstalled
Motor moves freely
 
Jan 22, 2014
90
France
I am confused by this thread.
I presume it is a continuation of the initial problem explained by Bke7 on the 28 Jan.
There he stated that the stove would not stay running.
That in that sensitive moment between start up and normal working , a fault was found that prevented normal working.
A fault which would not be evident before.
Now we learn ( I think ) that it never gets started.
Originally he had an error code 2 (overheating problem) - which he tried to solve by changing the high limit switch.
This action does suggest that he did not think that the stove was overheating.
But what if it was ? If the exhaust fan stopped working then it would overheat and would not start again.
But surely he can hear or see if the exhaust motor is functioning ?

If the exhaust motor is working the only thing left seems to be the ignitor.
But that would not have caused the original error code 2.
 

bke7

Member
Jan 1, 2015
32
Northwest CT
The original error code 2 did occur on the coldest night of the year, well below zero. The stove was working extremely hard. I did replace the high limit switch which should have solved the problem.
Just don't know if this caused the current problem or if coincidence.
Getting a little frustrating, because this Austroflamm insert has been amazing.
The exhaust fan is working , I have tried lighting manually, but just burns out because the auger shuts down
The low and high limit switches are new , the ignitor is new and the air sensor is clean
Today I'm going to try and take voltage readings @ the ignitor, high and low switches and fans
Can't think of anything else to test
 

bob bare

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
2,957
park county montana
Take voltage readings at the auger motor also.You may have a weak auger motor.
 

bke7

Member
Jan 1, 2015
32
Northwest CT
this morning I decided to start over, I removed all major connections one at a time. Checked all wires for continuity to be sure there were no breaks. Checked all connections , physically removing each one checking the connection did this at each fan, switch and motor , then did the same with the connections @ the control board.
Removed each circuit from the control board loosened each wire and reinstalled.
Removed the motor checked for any defects reinstalled checking all connections.
Cleaned hopper and checked that auger was not binding.
Checked the switch on the hopper door.
removed air sensor , cleaned again and reinstalled.

Started stove and it cycled and fired as it should. A great outcome but I really do not know what was causing my issues. During this process it did not appear that any connections were loose and all wires were good.
While happy that the stove is running( my wife is really happy, house temp is quite a bit lower when burning oil)
I'm going to keep an wary eye on the stove.

Thank you all that responded with help and advice. This is an amazing community
 
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Reactions: johneh

bob bare

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
2,957
park county montana
this morning I decided to start over, I removed all major connections one at a time. Checked all wires for continuity to be sure there were no breaks. Checked all connections , physically removing each one checking the connection did this at each fan, switch and motor , then did the same with the connections @ the control board.
Removed each circuit from the control board loosened each wire and reinstalled.
Removed the motor checked for any defects reinstalled checking all connections.
Cleaned hopper and checked that auger was not binding.
Checked the switch on the hopper door.
removed air sensor , cleaned again and reinstalled.

Started stove and it cycled and fired as it should. A great outcome but I really do not know what was causing my issues. During this process it did not appear that any connections were loose and all wires were good.
While happy that the stove is running( my wife is really happy, house temp is quite a bit lower when burning oil)
I'm going to keep an wary eye on the stove.

Thank you all that responded with help and advice. This is an amazing community
Seems to me you had this happen before.Any low voltage wires can develop enough corrosion to do this,and you would not see it,such as the hall sensor wires,some of the wires that feed the control board/display,etc.Same thing happens on cars.You may want to consider checking it further,maybe in the summer,I would try and use it rest of winter.