Help: Jotul 3CB Wood Stove in need of Repairs - Is it worth it?

[dancour]

I'm looking at a used Jotul 3CB wood stove that may have some potential considering it's low cost.

Here's my list:

a. Top smoke lid needs replacing if possible.
b. Enamel paint touch up if I can find it
c. New viewing door gasket
d. Short Crack near smoke pipe accessed.

Any comments and suggestions appreciated.

 

[begreen]

Welcome. That crack is the biggest issue. I don't like it, but maybe a very good welder could weld it? Ask first. Also, it looks like someone put a grate in the stove. That may have made the fire too hot?

 

[dancour]

I agree, begreen about the crack.

The bottom grate looks fine to me - no warp-age.

 

[begreen]

That's good. Maybe take the picture to a good welder who knows cast iron and see what they think. An exhaust manifold repair person might be another option.

 

[dancour]

Yes, I'll try that. Even a new/used flat black back might be a possibility.

 

[Auzzie Gumtree]

How much was the stove?

 

[dancour]

I paid $350 and it came with some good double walled smoke pipe including a clean out tee. I replaced the door gasket yesterday.

 

[Auzzie Gumtree]

Wow that seems cheap - you've done a nice job with the seal - i cant see the join very neat.

That stove with the pipe would probably sell for over $1500 here in Australia. I recently sold an older model for more than a $1000. Hope the crack can be sorted.

 

[Swedishchef]

Welcome!

That's a nice looking stove. And the price is great as well!! As BeGreen mentioned, get the crack fixed and your stove will be burning in no time at all.

Do you have a source of firewood yet?

What part of Canada to you live in?

Andrew

 

[dancour]

I live in Ontario, north of Kingston with at least 2 years of firewood stacked and covered. I notice a lot of Jotul owners in Quebec, Maine and New Hampshire.

 

[bunfoolio]

My parents have a F3B and it had been a good little stove for over 10 years now. You should be happy. Aslo as with most Jotul stoves they all do look very nice.

 

[begreen]

Any luck getting an appraisal from a welder yet?

 

[colin.p]

I live in Ontario, north of Kingston with at least 2 years of firewood stacked and covered. I notice a lot of Jotul owners in Quebec, Maine and New Hampshire.

I'm just up the road from you (Kemptville/Winchester area). That little Jotul is certainly a work horse.

 

[stovelark]

Hi Dan, You've got a pretty rare bird there, that looks to be an F3CB from the late 1990's or early 2000's. Looks like Jotul's Indigo Blue enamel color. The back being cracked is a bit of work to repair, the secondary chamber up top has got to come out and the sides need to be unbolted. Replace the internal gaskets for the secondary air system and new hardware would be good. That back if its still avail (might not be in Indigo Blue) will be costly, I'd guess 300-400 dollars. I'd go with Painted black for probably less than half that if you do replace it. The interior looks not too worn at all, did the stove fall or someone drop something on it?? She is still well worth the effort, taking the interior out, breaking down the top and sides, cleaning and re-cementing the panels in place, probably take you about 3-4 hours work time. Make sure the fire fence (log retainer) does not get close to the glass, some warp a bit, expand when warms up and hits the glass, not much clearance in between them. The F3 currently sells for about $1850 MSRP in painted black and about plus $500 for an enamel. Good luck with her, its some work, but a fine score. Good luck.

 

[dancour]

I appreciate your insights, all.

I dropped the stove (actually rolled the stove a la cart - 200 lb without top and door) off at a referred welder. He said that the crack was not heat related but probably caused via shipping. He plans on using a high nickel rod (99) and work in small steps welding and peening.

It could be a few days before I see the results. Ahead of me is a cracked truck engine block, 2 huge yachts, some small fishing boats and a utilities truck.

I did locate another F3CB, stovelark, thinking along the same lines as you as to possibly replacing the back.

Now I'm tracking down some Indigo high heat paint and I may end up exiting up from the top of the stove.

 

[dancour]

I got my stove welded yesterday with Ni 99 rod. He worked slowly. The welder was impressed with Jotul's casting. I added some paint to prevent moisture rust.

I'm still thinking of getting a rear smoke outlet cover and exiting the top. May lose on efficiency but my F55 in the basement is my main heat source.

 

[colin.p]

I think its more efficient to exit out the top anyway, not to mention, less smoke roll out.

 

[begreen]

Does the top already have the outlet cap? That is the way my stove came.

 

[dancour]

The outlet cap is cast in place as per pictures below.

Apparently I have to knock out or knock in the smoke hole ... as per manual ...

"Using a claw hammer or a small sledge hammer strike the CENTER of the 6” “knock-out” disc from the outside of the stove. The “knock-out” disc will break into 4 wedges and may need to be tapped out. Touch up any remaining sharp edged with a file or hand grinder."

 

[begreen]

OK. My F3CB was the opposite. It was setup for top vent and I had to knock out the rear plug. They are being euphemistic when they say "tap" it out. It was disconcerting to have to bash out that plug with some very serious hammer blows. I also needed to dress the edges of the hole afterward with a grinder and file.

 

[jpgillam]

May I piggy-back on this discussion of switching from a rear exit to a top exit?

We bought a used Jotul 3 CB that exits out the rear. I'd like to close that outlet and exit from the top.

1. After opening the top exit as described above, do I need to buy a cover and hardware to close the rear exit?
2. Because the existing rear heat shield has an opening it it for the chimney exit, I assume I'd have to buy a new rear heat shield, right?

(If you're curious about price, it's a darker blue enamel than dancour's above; we bought ours for US$550.)

 

[BrotherBart]

You just install the cover from the top on the rear. Using the same clamp bar that is holding it in the top. Just rivet a piece of sheet metal over the hole in the heat shield or do it with sheet metal screws.

 

[jpgillam]

Thanks, BrotherBart. I asked because the top does not have a clamp bar. Apparently the top cover simply knocks out, and that's the end of it.

I've seen references to a clamp bar on models of this stove; I suspect those are newer models that have a bar.

I like your advice to attach sheet metal to the heat shield!