Help With Older Stove Model
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MongoMongoson
Feeling the Heat
Yep. I agree. I am assuming those brackets are for the upper bricks and the angle is for the lower bricks. I cannot wait to try out the stove with the fire breaks actually on the interior. I have no doubt it will make a huge difference on how the stove heats the cabin!
I think the angle and brackets are for the fire bricks…. Upper and lower. But I will soon find out when I try to install.
Be green, cobalt you, and momgo….
Installed Rutland fire bricks in wood stove but ran out of bricks. I need about four more for custom cutting to fit. Please see the floor pattern as I figured similar to laying grass sod so all joints do not align. And I believe it was costly who advised to install rear wall of bricks first. You weren’t kidding…. I had half my body in that stove with headlamp light and finally got the four rear wall bricks installed. They were by far the most difficult. Should finish install in a couple of weeks. Then will work on moving stove out from wall, create air flow below stove, and add non combustible mat under stove. Let me know if I need to correct anything. I really appreciate the help.
Installed Rutland fire bricks in wood stove but ran out of bricks. I need about four more for custom cutting to fit. Please see the floor pattern as I figured similar to laying grass sod so all joints do not align. And I believe it was costly who advised to install rear wall of bricks first. You weren’t kidding…. I had half my body in that stove with headlamp light and finally got the four rear wall bricks installed. They were by far the most difficult. Should finish install in a couple of weeks. Then will work on moving stove out from wall, create air flow below stove, and add non combustible mat under stove. Let me know if I need to correct anything. I really appreciate the help.
Finished the wood stove project. Completely replaced chimney, stove pipe, thru-wall chase, durarock on wall with added fire rated rock hearth (vertical), durarock on floor and rocks from stream bed on property. Wood stove now burns properly and heats cabin like a champ. Just a fantastic stove.
It looks beautiful, but what is behind the rocked wall? As an unlisted stove needs 36" clearances in all directions and a larger hearth. There is no protection for the wood floor in the front. A minimum of 16" R=1 hearth protection is required and it needs to extend 16" in front of the stove door.
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Begreen,
Well, you were one of the originals who gave me such good advice. Behind the rock wall is a 3/4” thick cement board with a 1” gap between it and the wood wall. The thru wall chase is per code and I used double walled stove pipe (18” from rock wall). The floor has two 3/4” cement board sheets and a layer of waylander welding blanket with rock added. You are correct about the front coverage. It is a hunting cabin and I just could not extend any further without creating a tripping hazard for myself and others. The bottom of the stove is @ 7” above the Waylander welding blanket. The early cold weather in the South in November has allowed me to build several really hot fires so far and the floor and wall have not gotten hot.…or even warm. A huge improvement when I first purchased the place and wood stove had single wall stovepipe and the stove was only 5” from back wall.😳
Please let me know if you see any other major issues. Project took me several months of working there one day a week during summer. That duravent chimney draws so nicely now. Attached original photo of stove installation at time of cabin purchase.
Well, you were one of the originals who gave me such good advice. Behind the rock wall is a 3/4” thick cement board with a 1” gap between it and the wood wall. The thru wall chase is per code and I used double walled stove pipe (18” from rock wall). The floor has two 3/4” cement board sheets and a layer of waylander welding blanket with rock added. You are correct about the front coverage. It is a hunting cabin and I just could not extend any further without creating a tripping hazard for myself and others. The bottom of the stove is @ 7” above the Waylander welding blanket. The early cold weather in the South in November has allowed me to build several really hot fires so far and the floor and wall have not gotten hot.…or even warm. A huge improvement when I first purchased the place and wood stove had single wall stovepipe and the stove was only 5” from back wall.😳
Please let me know if you see any other major issues. Project took me several months of working there one day a week during summer. That duravent chimney draws so nicely now. Attached original photo of stove installation at time of cabin purchase.
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That rear shield doesn’t appear to have an air intake at bottom. Pics don’t show top, but it must be open across top for the heated air to rise up and out. The thickness of shield and material it’s made of is not what keeps the wall cool. A 1 inch air intake at bottom and open top allows the 1 inch airspace behind shield to keep wall cool using airflow. See my post #13 with heat shield specs. Should be able to open this up at bottom without too much issue.
And the floor protection in front is not enough. It is mostly for logs rolling out, and this type stove loaded lengthwise prevents that. But airflow for wall shield needs to be addressed.
And the floor protection in front is not enough. It is mostly for logs rolling out, and this type stove loaded lengthwise prevents that. But airflow for wall shield needs to be addressed.
Thanks for the informatio, coaly. There is a good inch gap between the back of the mantle and the wood wall. There is also a gap between the cement board and wall. I might need to cut in air vents along the bottom of the wall. Everything sits on a baseboard but I will check it out next time I am up there. Thanks again!
Yes, air needs to freely convect behind the heat shield. That's what makes it so effective. Heat can not be trapped behind the shield. It must be at least 1" open on the bottom and the top .
And the front hearth protection is needed to protect from sparks (embers) popping out from the stove and for heat shielding. Hopefully, this is not a big deal. The visual effect is really nice.
All that is needed is for the cement board to be taken off the wall and spacers placed behind it so that it is 1" off of the wall and open at the top and bottom. There are 1" ceramic spacers for sale or these could be made by cutting up short pieces of 3/8" copper pipe, or the metal stud could be vertically attached, flat side to the wall, and the cement board attached to it.
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Wood Stoves and Fireplaces - WOOD STOVE WALL CLEARANCES - PRIMER
Written by Ken Rajesky, Hearth Industry Expert. After the difficult decision of what stove to buy has been made, you’ll need to install the stove safely. However good the stove is, it’s still not safe unless installed to manufacturers specifications. First, review the owners guide that came...
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tebenhoh
Burning Hunk
Fireproof rug or mat in front of the stove? I doubt it’s code, but better than nothing - especially with a wood floor?
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