Hevac automatic wood heater
- Thread starter joeylyons
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
![[Hearth.com] Hevac automatic wood heater](/talk/data/attachments/155/155429-752f9e5c410a78a05c0b377dcdfdd8a1.jpg?hash=K2yqo9qOYg)
![[Hearth.com] Hevac automatic wood heater](/talk/data/attachments/155/155430-0da16ac38ddac703ebb51ea94a78d1f4.jpg?hash=ScspPx831g)
I couldn't find much info on it, except from the master himself, John Gulland. But this comment is on the Wood Chief.
Brad,
A Hevac Wood Chief is an old design that wasn't great when it was new. Now it is terribly out of date. The real difficulty with that
stove is that because of its design it is very difficult to run cleanly and efficiently. My recommendation would be to burn it very
carefully with small, hot fires (do not fill it up), check your chimney frequently for creosote build up, and make plans as soon as
possible to upgrade to an EPA certified stove. You'll find some good firing technique advice here:
(broken link removed to http://www.woodheat.org/tips/technique.htm)
John
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/woodheat/conversations/topics/4121
Brad,
A Hevac Wood Chief is an old design that wasn't great when it was new. Now it is terribly out of date. The real difficulty with that
stove is that because of its design it is very difficult to run cleanly and efficiently. My recommendation would be to burn it very
carefully with small, hot fires (do not fill it up), check your chimney frequently for creosote build up, and make plans as soon as
possible to upgrade to an EPA certified stove. You'll find some good firing technique advice here:
(broken link removed to http://www.woodheat.org/tips/technique.htm)
John
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/woodheat/conversations/topics/4121
Thanks for the reply.
I wonder if the issue with running it cleanly is due to the multiple baffles? I don't really know anything about what goes on inside a stove...(other then there's a fire burning)
The picture below shows a plate which covers about a 3rd of the fire box area.(plate can be removed, it just kinda fits in there) Above the plate there's a baffle covering the flu opening with two golf ball sized holes.
I would guess the lower plate is to suppress flames lower in the box and aid in burning up smoke? The baffle around the flue seems to restrictive? I wonder if there's any harm in removing it?
I'm building a wood fired sauna and this is the stove I picked up to heat it. "Small hot fires" would likely be the name of the game
Also, there's fire brick on the bottom and the side walls. I read a short internet blurb about it running better with the side wall bricks removed. Any thought on that?
Thanks again
Joey
I wonder if the issue with running it cleanly is due to the multiple baffles? I don't really know anything about what goes on inside a stove...(other then there's a fire burning)
The picture below shows a plate which covers about a 3rd of the fire box area.(plate can be removed, it just kinda fits in there) Above the plate there's a baffle covering the flu opening with two golf ball sized holes.
I would guess the lower plate is to suppress flames lower in the box and aid in burning up smoke? The baffle around the flue seems to restrictive? I wonder if there's any harm in removing it?
I'm building a wood fired sauna and this is the stove I picked up to heat it. "Small hot fires" would likely be the name of the game
Also, there's fire brick on the bottom and the side walls. I read a short internet blurb about it running better with the side wall bricks removed. Any thought on that?
Thanks again
Joey
Attachments
![[Hearth.com] Hevac automatic wood heater](/talk/data/attachments/155/155439-b330e4383efbb70877a385cf2ebdc11a.jpg?hash=pryA-XeplC)
I'd leave the bricks in. They should protect the outer walls and keep the fire burning hotter. Be careful with clearances. Sauna stoves are usually in close quarters with wood close by. For sure go overboard with heat shielding and have a safe flue system.
Just doing some more research and it seems the Newmac NS 220 Status wood stove is identical to the Hevac stove I have.
Maybe Hevac was just a re-seller of Newmac stoves?
Newmac specs are identical so I was able to find reviews, exploded diagrams.
Thanks for the replies.
Joey
Maybe Hevac was just a re-seller of Newmac stoves?
Newmac specs are identical so I was able to find reviews, exploded diagrams.
Thanks for the replies.
Joey
- Status
Similar threads
